101 Scout... going to take a while

[pisten-bully]

What changed?

I don’t know! Same shaft, same drive gear, same chain sprocket, same nut to hold on the sprocket, new but same dimension bearing, new but same dimension collar. Oh, and I’m new...I wasn’t there when the gearbox was probably rebuilt before!

(...and I always pay attention to your contributions!)

[tfburke3]

Well it looks like you are paying attention to me.
Obviously the sprocket position will effect chain align,but you have get the sprocket fully on the driver with a full nut and lock tab.
What changed?
Tom

[pisten-bully]

It looks like you need get your sprocket further on the driver.Im more familiar with chiefs but I think its similar.
How does the sprocket fit without the spacer behind it?I set the sprocet,,then take a measure and sometimes have to adjust the spacer so the nut is full tight just ask the spacer bottoms out to ensure the sproket is all the way home on the splines.
Tom

Thanks Tom, if I reduce the spacer collar then that would do it. My mistake is that I didn’t pay attention when I took it apart, but I am reusing most of the original parts. Bearings are new and I did purchase a new collar, but the new bearings and the new collar measure up exactly like the old bearing and collar.

I toyed with the idea of reducing the collar dimension, but wondered if sprocket alignment (gearbox to wheel) might suffer, and I also wondered if the chain shouldn’t be any closer to the gear case. But we’re only looking at a small adjustment....hmmm!

[tfburke3]

It looks like you need get your sprocket further on the driver.Im more familiar with chiefs but I think its similar.
How does the sprocket fit without the spacer behind it?I set the sprocet,then take a measure and sometimes have to adjust the spacer so the nut is full tight just ask the spacer bottoms out to ensure the sproket is all the way home on the splines.
If the sprocket only goes on that far without the spacer either the sproket or driver is off.With a .030 lock tab under the nut you will only have afew threads on the nut.
Tom

[pisten-bully]

I'm a little stumped at the moment and hoping someone can set me straight. I'm reassembling the gearbox and hoping to set main shaft end play but something's not right. When I mount the chain sprocket to the outside splined tube of the driver gear A) I can't get the nut to thread fully onto the end, and B) if I install the smallest .060 thrust washer on the shaft inside then the shaft doesn't protrude far enough to expose the shoulder that the cup for the kicker springs is to ride on:



the kicker gear lines up inside with the countershaft well:



and the bearing is fully seated against the case:



New bearing, but it is the same thickness as the bearing it replaced. And there is also a collar that spaces the chain sprocket away from the case, I purchased a new one and it is the same measurement as the one that came out.

So, I'm wondering if it is okay to install the main shaft with no thrust washers on the chain sprocket side and two thrust washers on the clutch side?

[pisten-bully]

The special bolt that retains the pinion gear was mangled up something terrible, I wasn't certain if it was a bolt or nut and I wasn't looking forward to taking it off. But it really wasn't a problem, some light taps with a small chisel and it started to turn.



One can purchase a pinon gear puller, but I decided to see if I could throw one together from scraps hanging around, it's not pretty to look at but it worked like a charm (one more welding job without my reading glasses... need to keep a pair in my tool box!)

[exeric]

I recently had to rework the front fender on my Honda 450. It turned out to be just as much of a headache as any Harley, Henderson, Excelsior, or Indian. The big problem is the fit of the wheel/tire, to the centerline of the fender. That is not only an aesthetic problem, but can be a wheel lacing, or bent fork problem and the challenge is to find out what needs to be fixed (and how to fix it). You really have to take your hat off to every motorcycle manufacturer for making tools, and dies that were/are so precise that mass production produced new motorcycles that looked good.

[pisten-bully]

...and back to the front fender braces. I want to thank everyone who gave me measurements and advice, mostly you helped me confirm my fender is curved properly and my braces are close to being the correct length. I can correct the fit by shortening the lower brace and calling it good, but it will still bug me as to why it doesn't fit without modifying by shortening the brace... but I will probably be the only one who knows!(except I just put it up on the internet, didn't I?)

[pisten-bully]

...back to the wheels for a moment, I debated whether to paint the spokes and nipples before lacing, or wait until after. I guess it doesn't make much difference because in my case I'll need to paint, or touch up, the spokes and nipples again due to all the battle scars incurred during lacing and tensioning:

Almost all the spoke nipples got scraped up during inserting or tensioning:



...and the spoke "elbows" were scraped up, as well as some nicks and chips caused by yours truly:



Conclusion, in my case maybe painting after lacing would have been just as good!

[gsottl]

forks are the same on 401/402 and 101 Scouts - Chiefs have a different fork, but also a completely different front fender. The difference between the 101 and 401/402 frontend is the spring. Scout has 6 leafs - Four has 7 leafs (same or similar to Chief- would need to check the parts books for that).

[exeric]

Your wheel looks great, Harry. Nice work. Fender stays have always been something of a mystery to me in that you can take them off a bike where they looked okay, then when re-installed, they don't fit. There are a lot of reasons for this such as reworked frames and forks, and metal work to the fender itself that all can change the previous geometry. One thing I have found that will drive a person crazy is the front fork. The slightest difference in rigid fork lengths, and angles will wreak havoc with fender fits. Rigid forks can be difficult to measure accurately because they can be bent in so many different places. A surface plate, straight edges, V-blocks, height gauge, and custom fixtures help a lot, only to discover you have to straighten the damn thing. Well, my post is over 4 lines long and that means Duffy won't be reading it Just wanted to send you some support, and an atta'boy.

[Tom Wilcock]

The Indian parts book show the front fender for the 101 and four cylinder have the same part number.
Tom

[jcrawford]

Hello Harry,

I measured the dimension you ask on front fenders I have as follows:
1929 402 (in good shape) - 29 5/8 in.
Unknown year 101 Scout (in fairly good shape) - 30 in.
Unknown year 101 Scout (in rough shape) - 29 1/2 in.
(As per the dimensions from the 101 Scout R & O Manual, 1928 - '31 fenders are the same.)
If you like, contact me personally if I can try to help further, though I'm not a frequent
contributor to the forum and am not an expert!
For those others who read this, they are not for sale.
Good luck continuing with your project.
John

[Green Indian]

Very nice work Harry, thank you for taking the time to share it with us!

[pisten-bully]

Interesting suggestion Mick! And thanks Dana and Tom for measuring, my fender is just short of 31" (by maybe a 1/16"), and Carl-Erik Renquist measured his up for me at 280mm (or 30.7") ...so the arc of my fender is not the problem! Maybe it is from a four cylinder???

Anyway... been doing some wheel lacing lately: