101 Scout... going to take a while

[pisten-bully]

Nothing like the miracle of hydraulics, Harry.

Ahhh... the Porta-Power! Funny thing, I purchased that when my now 40 year old son was 18 and bent the cross member in a 4-wheel drive we had when he hung it up on a stump...he also rolled three different cars! Now he's an airline pilot.... I told him I hope your rolling days are over!

[Shaky Jake]

Looks just like something I’d have done. Good job. Great thread!

I'm continuing to mock things up to make sure everything goes together, and each new piece added creates a new challenge! I finally finessed, wrangled, and persuaded the front fender to fit and immediately found another issue. I was aware that the frame down tubes in front were bent, I had measured the wheelbase earlier and came up about 3/4" short, but the tank fit and the fender fit...or so I thought.

Discovered that the fender, with the original full length stays in place barely cleared the frame:



And I was already aware of where the problem lay, the down tubes into the fork neck were bent backwards a bit:



So I straightened them:



... and now the tank and the fender both fit correctly!

[exeric]

Nothing like the miracle of hydraulics, Harry. Brilliant solution to a nasty problem. I love your build thread, and the work you have done, and the documentation, and pictures you have taken the time, and trouble to post for us.

[pisten-bully]

I'm continuing to mock things up to make sure everything goes together, and each new piece added creates a new challenge! I finally finessed, wrangled, and persuaded the front fender to fit and immediately found another issue. I was aware that the frame down tubes in front were bent, I had measured the wheelbase earlier and came up about 3/4" short, but the tank fit and the fender fit...or so I thought.

Discovered that the fender, with the original full length stays in place barely cleared the frame:



And I was already aware of where the problem lay, the down tubes into the fork neck were bent backwards a bit:



So I straightened them:



... and now the tank and the fender both fit correctly!

[d_lasher]

I managed to get the drive gear out tonight. It’s 1.196” from the bearing face to the face of the nut when it’s tighten down ‘hand tight’.

AB24C38F-9A6B-46FD-B846-79F9326DAF9B.jpg

Good luck

[tfburke3]

Suprised at no lock tab,but I never had a101.I would still put one there.I guess its same as chief.
Those nuts are prone to loosening even with the tab and I use red locktite just to be sure.
Enjoying your build,keep posting.
Tom

[pisten-bully]

You may want to check with the lower end and trans in the frame with rear wheel before you cut down your new spacer.
Thats the way the nut should look with the lock tab installed.

That's where I was headed Tom, finally fitting the engine/gearbox into the frame with the wheel to see how everything lines up. The kicker stud that was in there originally was offset and brazed in place, so I know I'll have to deal with that, too! BTW, there isn't a lock tab washer on the sprocket side on this one, only on the clutch sprocket nut

[pisten-bully]

My bearing is 0.374", My spacer is 0.570" and the sprocket is 0.233". I'm not able to get to the gear right now. Hope this helps.
Dana

Dana, that is awesome! So my spacer is also .570, my bearing is .394, but my sprocket is .276 on the splines. I didn't consider the sprocket (of course!) and I noticed that Greer sprockets are flat on one side and dished on the other, this sprocket is dished on both sides. If I can pick up .04 with a different sprocket it can only help! Thanks again!

[d_lasher]

My bearing is 0.374", My spacer is 0.570" and the sprocket is 0.233". I'm not able to get to the gear right now. Hope this helps.
Dana

[tfburke3]

Hey Harry,looks like your figuring it out.You made a good point about align.I think your collar or driver must have been off almost 1/4".
If you have the correct collar that puts the sprocket in proper alignment with the rear then you have the wrong driver.
You may want to check with the lower end and trans in the frame with rear wheel before you cut down your new spacer.
Thats the way the nut should look with the lock tab installed.
Tom

[pisten-bully]

Thanks Dana, very helpful! I'm going to proceed by using Tom's idea to adjust the depth of the spacer collar.

The sprocket will seat fully into the splines (needs to be tapped on lightly to fully seat), but without the collar the nut will fully thread onto the driver:



..and when I view the spacer and bearing together on the bench there is simply not enough length in the sprocket driver gear to accommodate the sprocket, spacer, and bearing while allowing the nut to fully thread on the outside:



My mistake was not making note of how it was assembled originally...it could have been wrong from the start, maybe a new sprocket driver gear was put in (it looks to be in very good shape!)

Thanks all for looking!

[d_lasher]

So I stand corrected. I just took mine apart. The nut pushes on the sprocket, the sprocket pushes on a 0.005 shim, the shim pushes on the spacer, the spacer pushes on the bearing and the bearing pushes back on the face of the drive gear. So the total width of the bearing, spacer, shim and sprocket is too wide on yours or something is in the way.

Dana

[d_lasher]

So, on mine the nut threads all the way in and tightens against a washer and the sprocket. From what I can see if the nut doesn't tighten all the way in, the sprocket isn't all the way back. If you take the drive gear out and put it together on the bench does it fit then? The nut not threading all the way in doesn't look like a thrust washer problem because the nut should push in on the sprocket which would be limited by the splines on the main gear, not the bearing or mainshaft.

Also my ratchet cup washer rides against the nut not the shoulder on the main shaft. I checked the wear pattern on the cup washer it looks like it's always been that way. But to be honest I wouldn't have looked if you hadn't said anything

I don't think it matters to this problem but is the sprocket on the right way? It's hard to tell from the picture.

I can take pictures of mine if you want. I can even take the drive gear out and put the sprocket and nut on and send you what mine does if you want.

Good Luck
Dana

[exeric]

Like Tom said, I think the sprocket needs full engagement on the SDG, and I suspect that is where the problem is. Maybe there is a burr on the sprocket, or a wear pattern on the SDG splines that is hanging up the sprocket. Those large, skinny, fine thread nuts are hard to tighten, and always make you have doubts if they're fully seated. I'm just throwing stuff out there as I'm sure you've thought all of this out. I also wanted to say I like your pinion gear puller and think any tool that can get the job done is beautiful.

[PaulCDF]

This entire build is SUPER. Truly Inspirational.