!914 Twin HD Cannon ball request

[Dkgoz]

Joe,

Do you plan to bring the bike to Davenport? I've been following your build since you started last November - it would be cool to see it in person. Its looking great!

Dave
AMCA 9757

[c.o.]

Sorry to supply pics in a tardy manner but I was off riding my pan for a few days.... oh, man it was good to get out and run the ol' girl.... back to business......... Go Joe Go!!!

[Slojo]

Loose ends

Repaired the gear chest today it is week, paper thin along side the magneto. I cut away the broken, missing and cracked material and made a new piece of flat stock aluminum (not a week casting) to replace it. The aluminum plate was screwed and glued using flat head 4-40 screws and Devcon aluminum putty. This repair is much better than new.

Next was an attempt to make a steel strap to wrap around the lower rear frame rail to secure the brake backing plate anchor. Two attempts later and more than an entire 54 outs game of Tigers base ball (Tigers defeated the Yankees) I was not satisfied with my end results. Tomorrow is another day, not many of those left before Davenport.

Joe

[Slojo]

Sunday The Day of Rest
No rest for the weary. I built the bottom end today including flywheel assembly and cam gear chest. The idler gear casing is in need of some welding before it can be installed.

Things went well with the flywheel assembly, it was assembled four times once for clearance checks twice for balancing purposes and once again for the final assembly each time both shafts ran true within one thousandths of an inch immediately after torqueing the crank pin nuts (no truing necessary). I have never in my life had a flywheel bolt together and immediately spin within runing specs without truing first. I should build all my flywheels from here on.

With a temporary stall on the motor it was time to look into the chassis again. I did not have twist grip steel cover sleeves so a piece of chromemolly 1 3/8 OD X 1 1/4 ID was bored to 1 5/16 ID, cut to length OD polished and drilled for the detent. I may try to squeeze in another plating trip before this is all over, these parts will be included.

Joe

[c.o.]

[MJW]

Mike
Good question, there were no timing marks cut in the flywheel (no access port to see the timing marks either). Timing was set by piston location measured from the top motor mount plug of the rear cylinder, the # 1 cylinder. I may mark the flywheel for advanced firing in line with the oil drain hole, the only access to the flywheel. Problem, where is the most effective firing position for this motor?

Joe

Perhaps the new mark could be added thru the oil drain hole after some experimental tuning, I suppose the flywheel is a bit hard for a center punch, how 'bout an engraver?...Mike

[Slojo]

Closing In

A run into the city to fix a machine and then the usual trips to suppliers.

McGuire spring shop for my new carb. springs, Chris the welder took care of a couple small projects, dropped the clutch lever off to be repainted after altering bends to fit and operate properly. Next to Exotic Plastic and Rubber for some rubber hose to cut and insert on the lower frame rail to cushion the gas tank mounting as originally done. I also picked up some black wrapped rubber hose that I may use for head light mounts, more on that as it progresses. Don't forget the Harley boutique for Sportster spark plugs to be used on this trip with adapters I will make.

Back in the shop a new leather choke for the carb. was reproduced like original. This is a back up in case I (the Gray Ghost) don't like the new teardrop black plastic choke I developed for the carb. This devise works like a constant velocity valve for the early Schebler carb's. I had to shorten the plastic choke to clear the butterfly when in full throttle operation. The carb is basically finished now.

The original rear stand catch doe's not fit properly, about 1/2" to close to the stand when in its retracted position. For now the easy way out was to make a new catch. This was bent from 1050 steel and will be heat treated to 45/50 Rc tomorrow.

Joe

[fillibuster]

Balance and timing, who's got it? We discussed balance somewhere recently, but we never got into a general overview. I expected to read some things about bore and stroke, angle of cylinders, overall weight of rotating and recip masses, any of the many considerations for balance, but last I remembered we talked about Chiefs and Scouts.
Who's the teens techie? Where does one start?
And about the timing, ... and the fuels,...
Surely someone can write a bucket-full of bs on this. .. I'd farm out that bs job, slojo, but let us know what you're running, please, please.

[Slojo]

Mike
Good question, there were no timing marks cut in the flywheel (no access port to see the timing marks either). Timing was set by piston location measured from the top motor mount plug of the rear cylinder, the # 1 cylinder. I may mark the flywheel for advanced firing in line with the oil drain hole, the only access to the flywheel. Problem, where is the most effective firing position for this motor?

Joe

[MJW]

I've never really noticed on the early motors, is there a timing mark on the flywheel? Mike

[c.o.]

[Slojo]

With the shafts for the flywheels finished and the flywheels themselves complete it was time to assemble the wheels for balancing. They trued up with ease.

Chris magnafluxed and honed the rods for me and I pressed the races into the big end today. Bushings for the wrist pins will be finished tomorrow.

Pistons are back from the coaters both Teflon (skirts) and ceramic (tops) coating have been applied.

Chassis work included new washers for the rear stand, control cable internal wires run through the spiral outer cases. This was interesting as I used wire spring steel, once uncoiled it straightens out. Front brake is now adjusted, New custom brake cable ordered today from Barnett (the clutch people), they will ship tomorrow ,what great service. I will be using a simple brake lever off an early seventies H.D.. This aluminum brake lever has the mirror mount built in making things easier and less damaging to the plating on the handle bars.

I finished the day off with yet another trip to Sparks shop to grind the crank pin bearing cages narrower to fit my application. Originally the nuts on the three flywheel shafts and the bearing cages were used in a 900 cc iron Sportster motor.

Joe

[Slojo]

This is a bike to be Proud of & I'm sure you are & thanks for letting us enjoy the whole process. Cook ya something soon !!!
Oz[/QUOTE]

Oz, How about a big plater of Lasagna?

Speaking of food, what do you think of the swiss cheesed gear set?

Joe

[Slojo]

Joe,
When ya get to Santa Monica your drinks are on me.

Chris,
If I make it that far even though I am not a drinker I believe that a drink will be just fine.
Joe

[Slojo]

Back to the ole grind again.

Apparently I can't get enough sparks. Mark is doing better today and came out to watch (B.S.) while I was sparking away. With more work over at Marks now completed preparations to build the flywheels for balancing is in process.

First it was necessary to cut the key slots in the main shaft tapered holes. To do this a broach process is the practical procedure. I don't have this type of tooling so creativity is the most practical tool in my box. A simple old fashion bore bar with a carbide tool specially ground and inserted into the spindle of the Bridgeport. Next, set up the work piece with the crank pin at 180 degrees from the key slot and tip the head on a 6 degree angle. Now get to work, I manually broached the key slot by using the quill to stroke the key slot into the tapered bore. I have done this in the past it is not as difficult as it sounds.

The camera was left behind in the shop tonight, no photos untill tomorrow.

Joe