Jules’ favorite bike 1928 101 Scout

[FLFD7]

Dave and Eric,
The clutch hub tool is handy, I’ve used it on 3 Sport Scouts and this 101. The hub part is some sort of plastic, I don’t know what the material is, maybe Delrin? The handle is just flat stock and there are 2 thread inserts pushed into the plastic. It looks to be easy enough to make, but I actually bought this at a meet years ago, I think at the time it was like $20 or so. I mean, between time and material I couldn’t make it for that, so done deal.

[FLFD7]

It’s been a busy 3 weeks or so, getting stuff ready for Oley and selling my Indian 4 I had my hands full, so now back on the 101. At Oley I did pick up my refurbished magneto…

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So that’ll be ready when the time comes.

Next up I’ll start with something easy, the transmission cover.

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Got everything apart now to clean and reassemble…

[Green Indian]

The Magneto looks great who rebuilt it for you?

[FLFD7]

This guy…

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[FLFD7]

Well, nothings easy. I started going thru the trans tower and didn’t like what I found…

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Got a bit of wear here…

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And the casting is cracked, likely cause the cap was loose and the shifter shaft was wobbling back and forth winds up bell mouthing the journals

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And messing up the bushing

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Lucky for me I have more parts in the stash and I’ll need a different tower, cap and end bushing.

[FLFD7]

Here are some pictures of the new assembly after it was cleaned up…

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Much better, nice and snug.

Ready for assembly

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And back together

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For you purists out there yes, the cap should be held on with threaded studs and nuts and I used hex head screws. First off the correct studs use 1/4-24 nuts, and I don’t have too many of those obsolete sized nuts, and I have plenty of 1/4-20 screws. I get it that studs and nuts are better if that part is going to be assembled and disassembled a lot, which I don’t see the cap for the shifter shaft being removed too often. Besides, later Chiefs used screws on the cap so I figured that’ll be fine, it’s not going to be judged or anything. I will use studs and nuts to mount the tower to the trans case, even then I bought new studs 1/4-20 in the case and 1/4-28 for the nuts.

Next up the primary drive…

[pisten-bully]

That looks great Joe! Nice to have a few parts laying around, too. And it's also encouraging to see that Greers is gradually adding to their selection of 101 parts and that they're now able to supply those 1/4-20/1/4-24 studs for the cover.

[FLFD7]

Primary time…..

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They needing a good cleaning, obviously…

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Inner pretty much done. While cleaning I noticed…

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It’s been welded on….but looks fine I think.

Next up cleaning the outer…

[FLFD7]

Well, not so fast. I’ve been pondering this inner primary and I’m not thrilled with the welded area after all. The mating surface still shows a crack

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Jules used Permatex on the covers, I got a new gasket and I suppose I could JB Weld over the crack and smooth it out to hopefully prevent any leak, but I have other inners so maybe I should use one.

I was also thinking what caused the break there that needed to be welded, and I think I figured it out. There isn’t much clearance between the cross over lever and the primary case…

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These are pictures of a 101 racer Jules built. You can see the “modification “ made to the case to accommodate the head of the screw on the lever. Other inner primaries that I have show a similar “modification “

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Here is one (top) compared to my cleaned up one (bottom)

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And here is another.

I need to do more investigating, but I’m learning toward using a different inner.

[FLFD7]

Well, decided to use the original inner anyway. Moving on to the outer.

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Looking better….

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But I found this…

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Yep, crack….shooooottttt…..
Can be fixed, but I want a timely solution so find a better one…

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No crack, so I’ll use it.

And in case you are wondering, as I was, that hole in the boss goes up through the thread. So I figure it was drilled there by Jules to get some oil to lubricate the clutch worm? Did it contribute to the crack?

[FLFD7]

Moving on to the idler gear….

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Cleaned up

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Looks good

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I checked the play, even though I couldn’t find a value in the 101 R&O manual. I found an article about rebuilding a high mileage 101, and they measured the play at like .028”, and they decided it was good enough. I got .025”, so I guess I’m good to go.

[FLFD7]

Moving on, mating the engine and trans…

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Nothing seems to be binding, I did the paper thru the gears check and it looks good


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Next up the clutch…

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[BigLakeBob]

I assume the paper thru the gears just checks binding only without checking excessive play? Is excessive play a concern? Thanks, I'm not an Indian guy, just trying to see other methods that might help me in checking Harley gear setups. Enjoy your updates!