Jules’ favorite bike 1928 101 Scout

[droptopford]

Bike looks awesome! Great build thread as well.
A little lost as to who's posting what and why as well. Steve didn't want to wait for Joe for the unveiling? Beautiful pics regardless.

[FLFD7]

Steve,

Bike looks great! Congratulations!

I haven't posted since August (yikes), gotta get back at it.....

[BigLakeBob]

Great looking bike, but confused as to why Steve posted the finished bike.

[C.Flint]

This has been a good build thread to follow along, thanks for posting. Will you get to ride this as a solo for a while before adding on that heavy sidecar? A light weight Scout really is a special bike…

[Steve Slocombe]

Thanks guys for all the help and it's been a while. Here's how that 1928 Scout turned out and it started up yesterday.

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[FLFD7]

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Someone repaired this in the past, it had been pinned (twice) and there were some punch mark knurls. So I got a new 1/16 pin (the old one was missing), added some more punch marks, and tried it again.

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I added some red loctite just for good measure

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Looks fine now, I’m happy with it.

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[FLFD7]

Well, that’s not gonna fly. I guess I could get a new bushing but I have other covers so let’s go with that.

Option one needs a cleanup but what is this… IMG_3980.jpeg IMG_3981.jpeg
Look where they put the breather! It’s supposed to be on the upper left, where the magneto drive is located. Indian put out a service shot with instructions

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I don’t know why they would put it under the pump? I would think up by the mag drive would draw the oil mist through the gear train, I guess somebody 90 something years ago had another idea…

Ok, on to option two, a different cover

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Kinda beat up looking but not awful after I cleaned it up, but again I found an issue… IMG_3968.jpeg while cleaning the bushing for the top idler gear was loose, rather I heard it clicking, so I pulled it out

[FLFD7]

Well it’s been awhile cause you know summer stuff….
Anyway trying to make more progress on the 101, I was up to the timing side.

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Cleaned up the components, a little before and after in the picture

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Put The components where they belong. I’m not going to button this up yet, still working through what to do about the cylinders, but I want everything ready to go. I did have the magneto redone. Just got to work on the cover now and I don’t know how I missed this but the cover Jules used is missing something…

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It seems to be lacking the bushing for the oil pump…hmmm….

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And for some reason he has bondo or something where the oil pump mounts…

[FLFD7]

I forgot to show the gaskets on the drive gear flange and the transmission flange, trust me they are there.

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Outer cover gasket on. I forgot to make up a new locating (dowel) pin (just below the clutch hub), but since there are two others and the idler shaft I think that’s good enough.

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Outer cover on. I know there will be haters, but I used 1/4-20 hex head screws to close up the primary. I’m not a fan of the double ended studs that should be used, it’s just squeezing, the screws work just as well.

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Next Up, filling the timing chest…

[FLFD7]

Gotta use the Indian spring compressor tool

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Get those thin folding washers and nuts on

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Spring compressor off, nuts tighten down

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Washers folded over

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Ready for the outer

[FLFD7]

Moving on to the clutch

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Ok, got everything ready. I was going to use the setup Jules had, just clean it up, and went so far as to clean up the springs and metal plates, but the fiber (Raybestos) plates that he had did not match what was spelled out in the 101 Association R&O manual. I had others, still not the “correct” ones, and after sorting thru them all of them needed to be cleaned up and some problem areas sanded down and I started thinking should I get that involved with this? Time, mess, cleaning, and the whole asbestos thing. I did have a King clutch I bought years ago and was going to use it on the correct engine for this bike, but I might as well use it now, I can get others. No modifying anything, new springs and metal plates, yeah, this is the way to go.

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I put in the clutch hub (left hand thread) and bent the locking washer. I modified one of my right angle screwdriver with a chisel point to get under the washer to bend up to a flat on the nut.

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The instructions say to soak the clutch plates in oil, I brushed it on instead.

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All the clutch plates installed, ready for the pressure plate and springs, worm and throw out bearing

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I’ll be using all 16 clutch springs. Jules always said, rightfully so, that 16 springs are too much for a Scout. Indian used the same clutch in the Scouts and Chiefs from the 20’s up till 53. A 53 80” Chief makes a lot more power and weighs a lot more then a 101 Scout, but they both use the same clutch plates and springs. On the last two Sport Scouts I only used 12 springs, and no problem. If this engine was going into a solo machine I’d use 12, but since it’s going to be pulling a sidecar I’ll stick with 16.

[FLFD7]

Bob,

Jules told me about the paper trick years ago, and I think its only to insure sufficient clearance with the gears (he said if the paper gets chewed up no good). But you are limited in any adjustment you can make. I think if too tight you could put shims between the transmission mounting legs and the case, that would push the transmission further back and give more clearance in the gears, but the inner primary sits on shoulders on both the engine case and the transmission case (you can see the shoulders in the first photo in my last post). I don't know how much you can move the inner primary before they hit. You'd have to mess with the holes in the casting. Doesn't sound like a reasonable job. Also, you'd have the same problem to reduce the space between the gears, machining the transmission mounting legs so it could move forward more, and you'd have the same problem with the holes in the inner primary. I didn't find any spec on what the clearance should be, so as long as my paper isn't ripped up I'm gonna leave it alone.

Joe

[BigLakeBob]

I assume the paper thru the gears just checks binding only without checking excessive play? Is excessive play a concern? Thanks, I'm not an Indian guy, just trying to see other methods that might help me in checking Harley gear setups. Enjoy your updates!

[FLFD7]

Moving on, mating the engine and trans…

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Nothing seems to be binding, I did the paper thru the gears check and it looks good


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Next up the clutch…

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[FLFD7]

Moving on to the idler gear….

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Cleaned up

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Looks good

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I checked the play, even though I couldn’t find a value in the 101 R&O manual. I found an article about rebuilding a high mileage 101, and they measured the play at like .028”, and they decided it was good enough. I got .025”, so I guess I’m good to go.