Jules’ favorite bike 1928 101 Scout

[FLFD7]

I forgot to show the gaskets on the drive gear flange and the transmission flange, trust me they are there.

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Outer cover gasket on. I forgot to make up a new locating (dowel) pin (just below the clutch hub), but since there are two others and the idler shaft I think that’s good enough.

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Outer cover on. I know there will be haters, but I used 1/4-20 hex head screws to close up the primary. I’m not a fan of the double ended studs that should be used, it’s just squeezing, the screws work just as well.

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Next Up, filling the timing chest…

[FLFD7]

Gotta use the Indian spring compressor tool

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Get those thin folding washers and nuts on

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Spring compressor off, nuts tighten down

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Washers folded over

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Ready for the outer

[FLFD7]

Moving on to the clutch

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Ok, got everything ready. I was going to use the setup Jules had, just clean it up, and went so far as to clean up the springs and metal plates, but the fiber (Raybestos) plates that he had did not match what was spelled out in the 101 Association R&O manual. I had others, still not the “correct” ones, and after sorting thru them all of them needed to be cleaned up and some problem areas sanded down and I started thinking should I get that involved with this? Time, mess, cleaning, and the whole asbestos thing. I did have a King clutch I bought years ago and was going to use it on the correct engine for this bike, but I might as well use it now, I can get others. No modifying anything, new springs and metal plates, yeah, this is the way to go.

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I put in the clutch hub (left hand thread) and bent the locking washer. I modified one of my right angle screwdriver with a chisel point to get under the washer to bend up to a flat on the nut.

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The instructions say to soak the clutch plates in oil, I brushed it on instead.

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All the clutch plates installed, ready for the pressure plate and springs, worm and throw out bearing

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I’ll be using all 16 clutch springs. Jules always said, rightfully so, that 16 springs are too much for a Scout. Indian used the same clutch in the Scouts and Chiefs from the 20’s up till 53. A 53 80” Chief makes a lot more power and weighs a lot more then a 101 Scout, but they both use the same clutch plates and springs. On the last two Sport Scouts I only used 12 springs, and no problem. If this engine was going into a solo machine I’d use 12, but since it’s going to be pulling a sidecar I’ll stick with 16.

[FLFD7]

Bob,

Jules told me about the paper trick years ago, and I think its only to insure sufficient clearance with the gears (he said if the paper gets chewed up no good). But you are limited in any adjustment you can make. I think if too tight you could put shims between the transmission mounting legs and the case, that would push the transmission further back and give more clearance in the gears, but the inner primary sits on shoulders on both the engine case and the transmission case (you can see the shoulders in the first photo in my last post). I don't know how much you can move the inner primary before they hit. You'd have to mess with the holes in the casting. Doesn't sound like a reasonable job. Also, you'd have the same problem to reduce the space between the gears, machining the transmission mounting legs so it could move forward more, and you'd have the same problem with the holes in the inner primary. I didn't find any spec on what the clearance should be, so as long as my paper isn't ripped up I'm gonna leave it alone.

Joe

[BigLakeBob]

I assume the paper thru the gears just checks binding only without checking excessive play? Is excessive play a concern? Thanks, I'm not an Indian guy, just trying to see other methods that might help me in checking Harley gear setups. Enjoy your updates!

[FLFD7]

Moving on, mating the engine and trans…

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Nothing seems to be binding, I did the paper thru the gears check and it looks good


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Next up the clutch…

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[FLFD7]

Moving on to the idler gear….

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Cleaned up

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Looks good

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I checked the play, even though I couldn’t find a value in the 101 R&O manual. I found an article about rebuilding a high mileage 101, and they measured the play at like .028”, and they decided it was good enough. I got .025”, so I guess I’m good to go.

[FLFD7]

Well, decided to use the original inner anyway. Moving on to the outer.

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Looking better….

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But I found this…

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Yep, crack….shooooottttt…..
Can be fixed, but I want a timely solution so find a better one…

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No crack, so I’ll use it.

And in case you are wondering, as I was, that hole in the boss goes up through the thread. So I figure it was drilled there by Jules to get some oil to lubricate the clutch worm? Did it contribute to the crack?

[FLFD7]

Well, not so fast. I’ve been pondering this inner primary and I’m not thrilled with the welded area after all. The mating surface still shows a crack

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Jules used Permatex on the covers, I got a new gasket and I suppose I could JB Weld over the crack and smooth it out to hopefully prevent any leak, but I have other inners so maybe I should use one.

I was also thinking what caused the break there that needed to be welded, and I think I figured it out. There isn’t much clearance between the cross over lever and the primary case…

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These are pictures of a 101 racer Jules built. You can see the “modification “ made to the case to accommodate the head of the screw on the lever. Other inner primaries that I have show a similar “modification “

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Here is one (top) compared to my cleaned up one (bottom)

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And here is another.

I need to do more investigating, but I’m learning toward using a different inner.

[FLFD7]

Primary time…..

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They needing a good cleaning, obviously…

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Inner pretty much done. While cleaning I noticed…

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It’s been welded on….but looks fine I think.

Next up cleaning the outer…

[pisten-bully]

That looks great Joe! Nice to have a few parts laying around, too. And it's also encouraging to see that Greers is gradually adding to their selection of 101 parts and that they're now able to supply those 1/4-20/1/4-24 studs for the cover.

[FLFD7]

Here are some pictures of the new assembly after it was cleaned up…

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Much better, nice and snug.

Ready for assembly

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And back together

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For you purists out there yes, the cap should be held on with threaded studs and nuts and I used hex head screws. First off the correct studs use 1/4-24 nuts, and I don’t have too many of those obsolete sized nuts, and I have plenty of 1/4-20 screws. I get it that studs and nuts are better if that part is going to be assembled and disassembled a lot, which I don’t see the cap for the shifter shaft being removed too often. Besides, later Chiefs used screws on the cap so I figured that’ll be fine, it’s not going to be judged or anything. I will use studs and nuts to mount the tower to the trans case, even then I bought new studs 1/4-20 in the case and 1/4-28 for the nuts.

Next up the primary drive…

[FLFD7]

Well, nothings easy. I started going thru the trans tower and didn’t like what I found…

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Got a bit of wear here…

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And the casting is cracked, likely cause the cap was loose and the shifter shaft was wobbling back and forth winds up bell mouthing the journals

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And messing up the bushing

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Lucky for me I have more parts in the stash and I’ll need a different tower, cap and end bushing.

[FLFD7]

This guy…

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[Green Indian]

The Magneto looks great who rebuilt it for you?