Jules’ favorite bike 1928 101 Scout

[FLFD7]

Hey Steve,
Yeah I can use one of those screws. Problem is you’re in England and I don’t do PayPal or Venmo and I don’t think a check in American dollars is going to work for you. You wouldn’t happen to be going to the Oley meet this year? If so I could get it from you there.
Joe

[Steve Slocombe]

I'm doing a '28 as well, as seen earlier. I bought a pack of five of those left hand pinion shaft screws from Eastern Parts, so have some left over if you need them.

I also found bronze 37 inch flywheels in the bike, weighing as much as the steel flywheels for the 45 inch versions. Does anyone have any insights? Again, this is an early 1928 101 with a serial number in the 400s.

[FLFD7]

Well, after the above mentioned screw and the pinion was removed I was able to split the cases and was greeted with an oily mess…

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Original 101 open flywheels well coated in oil. A good cleaning is called for, time to get dirty….

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Ok, making progress, it’ll take a couple of days to get the cases clean (and a lot of rags and lacquer thinner), but at first glance don’t see any cracks or other issues. Fingers crossed.

[FLFD7]

I discovered something and I want to correct myself, back when I took the pinion gear off Jules’ engine I found a left handed 5/16 screw that I thought Jules or somebody made up, cause I was expecting a nut. I found the same thing on this bottom end (somebody chewed the heck out of the hex head, probably didn’t know it was left hand thread)

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Well that was because I was used to Sport Scout engines that have a nut on the pinion shaft. Turns out the original 101 pinion shafts used these screws instead of nuts. Here it is in the parts book

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Pinion shaft pinion washer screw. Funny thing is, in the 101 Association R and O manual it’s not mentioned, as a matter of fact the only diagram in there that shows the flywheel assembly shows a nut on the pinion shaft

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I guess since those shafts are no longer available they use Sport Scout pinion shafts with the nozzle cut off past the threads ( that the left hand nut goes on).

I learned something new.

[FLFD7]

Ok, now I’m heading off in a new direction. Thinking about these flywheels they gotta come apart to clean out the rust, and upon further exam it seems Jules welded the drive shaft to the wheel

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Not that I couldn’t work around that, but I have other options, and I’m trying to make this easy for myself. I got a lot of stuff going on, getting stuff together for Oley. I got to get a reconditioned mag back on my 39 Sport Scout, and my 40 Four needs some TLC. And I’m working with a guy interested in one of my father’s bikes. So a lot of irons in the fire. Anyway, here’s what I’m thinking now, I have another 101 bottom end

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Dirty, yeah, but the case is well oiled, not a bit of rust to deal with. So if it looks decent inside I can use that bottom end with the trans, primary and mag from Jules’ engine and I’m set.

[FLFD7]

Split the cases and as I feared looking pretty fugly in there.

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At first glance at least the cases look good, I didn’t notice any cracks straight up, and I see Jules put late Sport Scout z metal flywheels in it, so that’s something.

[FLFD7]

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Next up I’ll crack open the case…

I must say I like the work stand Jules made up, the neat thing is it swivels, so the base stays in place and the motor can spin around, neat.

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He used a couple of flanges and a short length of pipe and it spins on the threads. I mean, I guess if you don’t pay attention and always spin in the same direction it’ll come apart, but for swiveling back in forth works like a charm. Good job Jules!

[FLFD7]

More primary….

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Pulled the idler gear and rollers

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Removed the inner primary cover

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Took off drive gear

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And then the transmission

[FLFD7]

The clutch….

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I used the Indian clutch spring compressing tool to remove the nuts holding the outer cover on. Under these nuts Indian uses small thin washers that are meant to be folded over the edge of the plate and a flat on the nut to keep the nut from loosening. Jules used shake proofs….
And he used to call me a cheap Dutchman….cmon man…

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A lot of corrosion on the clutch plates, a couple of the fiber plates are stuck together, fortunately I have others.

[FLFD7]

Moving over to the primary side I find this….

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Early 101s had a vent line on the left side of the crankcase. To improve oiling to the valve train they moved the vent to the timing cover in I think 29? The dealer had to modify the right side case and cover to accommodate the vent line on that side, and was supposed to cover the vent hole on the left side with a little flat plate. Which I guess Jules didn’t have, so he took an old vent cover and threaded a plug in the bottom. Nice…

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After taking off the outer primary I see more evidence of corrosion, this motor was definitely under water. Next up take the clutch apart.

[FLFD7]

After taking the mag off I pulled the pinion gear with the Indian tool (and a little heat and penetrating oil).

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Before using the puller I had to take the nut off the pinion shaft, and I got a little surprise….

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It wasn’t the it I was expecting, it a home made left hand thread hex screw. Only thing I can think of is Jules broke off the threaded end of the pinion shaft so he cut that off, drilled and tapped the shaft and made the screw?

All I know for sure is I better not lose that screw….

[FLFD7]

I haven’t heard of ashless oil, but I have heard of ashless chaps…..

Anyway, time to start tearing this down.

I’ll start on the timing side

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Oil pump and vent line off, then pull the timing cover.

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Emptied out the timing chest. The back cylinder has shorter pushrods then the front, and the grooved ones are for the exhaust valve (Jules had them with the intakes). No biggie.

[T. Cotten]

"Total Loss" always made perfect sense to me, Folks...

(I had no personal experience owning such a machine, however I had a panhead that came close!)

Eliminating oil control rings works best with an ashless oil.

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Quote from Gene,

"I had many long discussions with George Yarocki about oil control rings. He was adamant about not using them. His argument was "These engines were designed to burn oil so the top end gets lubrication." I disagreed, arguing that the early engines burned oil as a consequence of the design, Good oil control methods hadn't been figured out yet. In my mind, if burning oil is such a good thing, why do modern engines go to such great lengths to prevent it? Oil burning in the combustion chamber is not good, it leaves carbon deposits which break off and move around, causing damage to the bore, pistons, rings etc. Also builds up on the exhaust valve stem and can stick the valve open. I've always run cast iron oil control rings with cam ground aluminum pistons. Over the decades I've put an honest 15,000 miles on my 24 Chief w/ sidecar and 5000 on my 24 Excelsior. They both will use less than 1 qt of oil in 300 miles, most of which I dump out at every gas stop and reset the level in the crankcase. It's cheap insurance to dump a couple ounces of oil every 75 miles or so. I fit the piston clearance on the Chief (3 1/4" bore) at .0065". The Excelsior I fitted at .006". These numbers are for cam ground pistons, which Indian didn't have back in the day.

Of course oil control also needs to be managed at the oil pump. With Oil control rings, the mechanical pump needs to be turned way down, unless your engine is leaking all over the place! This is another reason to change oil every gas stop. The small amount of oil in the engine does a lot of work and breaks down quickly, so replacing frequently is a good idea. I like my engines tight and clean, I hate oil leaks! Good oil control rings and proper pump adjustment go a long way here, plus I put a lip seal on the magneto gear..."

Gene I couldn't agree more!!!
It's all about oil control and mitigation of oil leaks...
Another Huge annoyance is the sound of exhaust leaks in my book, causes poor running issues as well.

Duke Kleman

[T. Cotten]

Joe,

I wouldn't worry about different size pistons, the engine won't know or care. I would however, do the best I could to get the total piston assemblies the same weight. That will help your balance issues and make the engine a bit smoother. You can often remove some material from the underside of the heavy piston if the tops are thick. Otherwise, add some lead weight into the center of the wrist pin on the lighter one as needed to get them equal weight....

A waste of time, Gene!

With a single-throw motor, there is only one reciprocating mass in the balance formula: The total.

Making them equal is as pointless as shaving the top of the female rod to a toothpick to make it equal to the male.

But whatever makes you sleep better.... .. .

....Cotten