Jules’ favorite bike 1928 101 Scout

[tfburke3]

After installing that seal I have found it necessary to sand the seal down,or pre crush in a vise until the protrusion is less than flywheel side play,otherwise it will pull the flyweel against case,causing binding and early sprocket shaft thrust washer wear.
I don't think the seal really does much if your flywheel assembly is moving side to side.Probably the large sprocket washer does more.
Tom

[FLFD7]

Just a FYI for those working on 101s, the cork seal that Greer sells for the drive gear on later Chiefs fit the 101…

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[FLFD7]

Going thru the transmission I think I’m going to replace the gear set. I found a slider gear that was in better shape…
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The one in the back was in the trans, I’ll use the one in front.

As for the cluster gear the one Jules put in had a shim, but I found one with teeth in as good as shape but it had a shoulder cast on the flank of the first gear
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And that shoulder is the same thickness as the shim Jules used

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Looking at the diagram on Jerry Greers website the shoulder is pictured in their diagram

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image credit to Jerry Greer.

I’ll go with the cluster with the shoulder, if anything it’ll be easier to install without having to use a shim.

[FLFD7]

Test fitting the trans case ran into a problem straight away, my fault I used a bolt and nut instead of the double ended stud and it was too wide for the recess in the trans case…dooh!

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So I had to update the hardware

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That’ll work

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yep. Once bolted to the case I wanted to check the fit in the frame, since Jules had welded on the mounts I would guess he checked it himself but you never know.

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No worries, went right in, I’m happy.

[FLFD7]

While I’m waiting for a new cork seal let’s move on to the transmission

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needs some TLC

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OK, all apart, gotta clean.

Some of Jules welding on the case…

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Gonna do a little test fitting first

[FLFD7]

I need to get a new cork seal for the back of the drive gear (drive pinion). The one in this pinion fell apart

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And another one I have seems very brittle

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Greer doesn’t have one listed under 101 parts, so I’m wondering if anyone knows if it’s the same cork used on the later Chiefs

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The 1.313 ID seems right, the groove on the back of the drive pinion is about .145 deep and the Greer cork is .187 thick, does this seem right ?

Joe

Drawing credits to Jerry Greer

[FLFD7]

A little bit of oil and away we go….

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According to the 101 R&O book want about .010 to .020 play.

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IMG_2763.jpeg .588 to .605 so .017 play, the Yamabond add another .003 or so, I’d say that’s good to go.

[FLFD7]

Getting ready to close up the cases so sorting out the hardware…

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Next up I’ll put it together without Yamabond to check the end play…

[FLFD7]

Moving along got some stuff done on the cases, I had to shorten some 1/4” x 1” pins to 1/2” for use as locating pins for the transmission case.

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I also wanted to send a shout out to Steve Slocombe for sending me a new pinion shaft pinion screw to replace my chewed up and spit out original screw.

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You sir are a gentleman, and somehow I’ll return the favor..

Cheers, Joe

[FLFD7]

Continuing with the bottom end got both cases cleaned up with lacquer thinner and elbow grease

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Flywheels cleaned up as well. Thought I would check how true they were running so put them on the stand. According to the 101 R&O manual they should be true to within .001, but looking in my army manual they say between .0015 and .002

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On the pinion side they look to be about .001 out, but on the drive side they look to be a little over .002 out, let’s say .0025. Now, I really hesitate to mess with the flywheels cause they are the original cast iron open wheels and I read horror stories where, even though they only go to I think 60 lb-ft torque on the nuts they can still crack, which would be a huge setback. So should I risk cracking the wheel for that extra .0005? I’m not going to risk it, I’ll run them as is.
Since I won’t be splitting the wheels the last thing I needed to check is if the oil passage from the pinion shaft to the big end of the connecting rods was clear. I filled a little squeeze bottle with lacquer thinner and shot it down the pinion shaft and it came out of the big end, a little dirty at first but then clear so I know that oil will go through there.

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So making progress, hope to button it up by next weekend.

[T. Cotten]

Think how much we could have learned, Steve,...

If builders had thrown cranks on knife-edges and calculated their existing factors before splitting them.

..Cotten

[Steve Slocombe]

Ah, balance factor! That discussion might run and run. The early literature, and the 101 Shop Manual, imply a 50% factor by halving various weights. I'be been using 46% on the VLs and understand modern Harleys use around 58% for low end grunt. On the VLs the flywheels are heavy and tend to drown out small changes in balance factor. In a 1934 Shop Dope Harley says it is 'not strictly necessary' to rebalance the flywheels when changing from iron VL pistons to aluminium, as long as both are changed. Yikes!

[T. Cotten]

Those are impressive, Steve!

Note that the balancing holes imply a very high factor, and the casting is relieved further; Any idea what the original factor for 101s should be?

Note also they are right where the flywheels bulge most:
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(Displayed by sliding the wheel on a sheet of emery.)

....Cotten

[Steve Slocombe]

Here is a picture of the bronze flywheels. They are made for a 37 inch stroke bike but weigh the same as the 45 cubic inch ones, 4.7 kg or 10.3 pounds each. They are the spoked style and I don't see any factory markings.
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[T. Cotten]

....I also found bronze 37 inch flywheels in the bike, weighing as much as the steel flywheels for the 45 inch versions. Does anyone have any insights?....

Bronze is a noble material, Steve,...

But probably a poor choice for flywheel tapers; Do they have markings like other Wigwam productions?

Are they "see-through" wheels?

I would suspect they bulge about the crankpin much more than cast iron.

....Cotten