Jules’ favorite bike 1928 101 Scout

[FLFD7]

Well, decided to use the original inner anyway. Moving on to the outer.

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Looking better….

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But I found this…

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Yep, crack….shooooottttt…..
Can be fixed, but I want a timely solution so find a better one…

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No crack, so I’ll use it.

And in case you are wondering, as I was, that hole in the boss goes up through the thread. So I figure it was drilled there by Jules to get some oil to lubricate the clutch worm? Did it contribute to the crack?

[FLFD7]

Well, not so fast. I’ve been pondering this inner primary and I’m not thrilled with the welded area after all. The mating surface still shows a crack

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Jules used Permatex on the covers, I got a new gasket and I suppose I could JB Weld over the crack and smooth it out to hopefully prevent any leak, but I have other inners so maybe I should use one.

I was also thinking what caused the break there that needed to be welded, and I think I figured it out. There isn’t much clearance between the cross over lever and the primary case…

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These are pictures of a 101 racer Jules built. You can see the “modification “ made to the case to accommodate the head of the screw on the lever. Other inner primaries that I have show a similar “modification “

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Here is one (top) compared to my cleaned up one (bottom)

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And here is another.

I need to do more investigating, but I’m learning toward using a different inner.

[FLFD7]

Primary time…..

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They needing a good cleaning, obviously…

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Inner pretty much done. While cleaning I noticed…

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It’s been welded on….but looks fine I think.

Next up cleaning the outer…

[pisten-bully]

That looks great Joe! Nice to have a few parts laying around, too. And it's also encouraging to see that Greers is gradually adding to their selection of 101 parts and that they're now able to supply those 1/4-20/1/4-24 studs for the cover.

[FLFD7]

Here are some pictures of the new assembly after it was cleaned up…

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Much better, nice and snug.

Ready for assembly

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And back together

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For you purists out there yes, the cap should be held on with threaded studs and nuts and I used hex head screws. First off the correct studs use 1/4-24 nuts, and I don’t have too many of those obsolete sized nuts, and I have plenty of 1/4-20 screws. I get it that studs and nuts are better if that part is going to be assembled and disassembled a lot, which I don’t see the cap for the shifter shaft being removed too often. Besides, later Chiefs used screws on the cap so I figured that’ll be fine, it’s not going to be judged or anything. I will use studs and nuts to mount the tower to the trans case, even then I bought new studs 1/4-20 in the case and 1/4-28 for the nuts.

Next up the primary drive…

[FLFD7]

Well, nothings easy. I started going thru the trans tower and didn’t like what I found…

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Got a bit of wear here…

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And the casting is cracked, likely cause the cap was loose and the shifter shaft was wobbling back and forth winds up bell mouthing the journals

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And messing up the bushing

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Lucky for me I have more parts in the stash and I’ll need a different tower, cap and end bushing.

[FLFD7]

This guy…

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[Green Indian]

The Magneto looks great who rebuilt it for you?

[FLFD7]

It’s been a busy 3 weeks or so, getting stuff ready for Oley and selling my Indian 4 I had my hands full, so now back on the 101. At Oley I did pick up my refurbished magneto…

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So that’ll be ready when the time comes.

Next up I’ll start with something easy, the transmission cover.

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Got everything apart now to clean and reassemble…

[FLFD7]

Dave and Eric,
The clutch hub tool is handy, I’ve used it on 3 Sport Scouts and this 101. The hub part is some sort of plastic, I don’t know what the material is, maybe Delrin? The handle is just flat stock and there are 2 thread inserts pushed into the plastic. It looks to be easy enough to make, but I actually bought this at a meet years ago, I think at the time it was like $20 or so. I mean, between time and material I couldn’t make it for that, so done deal.

[exeric]

Like Dave said, appreciate your pictures, and text, Joe. That clutch holding tool sure would have been handy on my SS. I'll put that in the memory bank.

[ammorest]

Joe, really enjoying your build. Better than Indian shop manuals. I made my own clutch hub nut wrench out if flat stock. I like the holding tool. What material is tge white notched part? Keep the pics coming. Thanks, Dave

[FLFD7]

OK, I’m a dope….

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I figured to put in shifter fork next but of course you can’t put the shifter fork guide rod when the clutch hub is in the way, so back everything out, remove the clutch hub. Shifter fork over the slider gear, push the rod in, and install the set screw that holds the rod in.

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This set screw been staked in more then a few times over the last 90 something years, so some red loctite outta do.
Now I can put the clutch hub in… IMG_2990.jpeg IMG_2991.jpeg

By the way I had to grind the heck out of the backside of the Indian style wrench to clear the case casting and hold the nut properly. The other tool I picked up years ago to hold the clutch hub, very handy.

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[FLFD7]

Next up the slider gear and main shaft. I put the main shaft thru the bearing and inside the case slide on the clutch hub nut lock washer, clutch hub nut, slider gear, and don’t forget the sprocket side thrust washer. The clutch side thrust washer I put on the main shaft outside the bearing and push it thru with the clutch hub.

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Making sure the inside tooth of the lock washer slides into the groove on the clutch hub, and spin on the nut. I know there is going to be haters, but I learned from Jules to use a bearing retainer washer (star shape) instead of the usual Indian washer. The internal tooth is the same size as the Indian washer, and they are the same thickness and ID. Anyone who has tried to bend the Indian washer over the nut flat inside the case where direct access above and behind is blocked by the case itself knows what a humongous pain it is. The outside fingers on the bearing retainer have to be flattened out before installing, the are normally a cup shape and interfere with the nut. I fold three of the tabs over and have at least as much if not more contact area with the nut. Jules used to use them on his racers, so that’s good enough for me. Plus they only cost like three bucks each from McMaster.

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OK, now everything is tightened up, I’ll check for end play, according to the 101 R&O manual .005-.010 is good, I’m getting .009, which is good.

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Next up, shifter fork

[FLFD7]

Moving on to the transmission, everything cleaned up ready to go back together

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Space is tight in there, first don’t forget the little seal that goes in the sprocket side cluster gear bushing, the old one always gets destroyed punching out the cluster gear shaft. Then you drop the cluster gear in but can’t put the shaft thru yet cause there is no room for the drive gear to fit past second gear on the cluster. Once the drive gear is installed thru that side bearing then you can pick the cluster gear up and push in the shaft.

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Then the retaining clip holds in the cluster gear shaft, and you can install the bearing shield, felt seal (new) and cover on the sprocket side. So far, so good.