My 101 Scout Cannonball Build

[moldthread]

Hi Dana,
I found out there was a problem with the brushes about a week before the last cannonball from Portland to Portland.
It seems that all the brushes being made now are too soft and leave a carbon buildup on the inside of the cap causing mis-fire.
I solved the problem by changing the rotor from a "wipe spark" to a "jump spark" like Splitdorf did on their next model magneto.
I do have these rotors in stock and the work with both the original caps and mine.

[d_lasher]

Bruce, I’ll give you call when the money shows up in my bank account!

Here’s mock up number 2,

D2F125C1-1C9E-4FAB-86FB-7FCEB7203D20.jpg

Three problems,
The rear cylinder interferes with the shift tower. I’ll have to trim back a little of the fins
The shifter is never going to get around the cylinder, I’m going to have to switch back to a left hand shift.
The ‘got a great price’ repop chain guard is two inches too short. I’m going to have to rework it.

[d_lasher]

It's been awhile, but I have been working on the bike. I got the rear cylinder to fit and modified the transmission shift to be a right hand shift. I had to do that so the shifter cleared the cylinder heads. Now, I'll have to switch the throttle and brake lever to the right. I'm not worried about the throttle but my brake lever is left handed and they're expensive to buy. I'll figure something out.

I got the carburetor all cleaned up and rebuilt. It's amazing how much dirt can come out of one little carburetor. Over the years I've become an expert at 50 year old oil soaked California dirt. I had a DLX 130 schebler that I converted to a DLX 110 by swapping out the venturi. Gave it a good cleaning, replaced the throttle bushings and float and everything rubber. I used cotten's tiny puller to get the main nozzle out. It's just some #10 threaded rod, I put a nut on the ends and pulled it out like a pulley puller. Easy peasy. All in all the carb was the most straight forward thing yet.

After that I started on the exhaust. As I said I'm using sport scout heads on top of a 101 bottom end. So there's no just buying exhaust headers. So, I bought these from amazon for like $25.00 and started the 4 week process of making headers.
IMG_1489.jpg
3D puzzles are not my strong suit I'll tell you that. It's definitely tighter down there then it looks.. There's about 3/8" clearance with the brake pedal, 1/4" clearance with the frame and chain guard, and 1/8" with the cam case. I'd get one right and the others would move. There's probably some secret to it that I just don't know. But I got it done and I think it came out nice. Here's a pic before I do the finial grind and paint.
IMG_1499.jpg

Now that that's done I'm going to make a empty muffler shell that I'll fill out later once I get the engine running. I'll experiment with different baffles and packing and see what I like. But for now it's just going to be a 2.5" pipe with caps on the ends.

I'm down to honing the cylinders, then sheet metal, and then paint. I'm in a race to get to the paint in October, it starts to get cold here in California in November and it might even rain!

WTR : 48

[d_lasher]

I've been working on the sheet metal the last few weekends. Nothing on this project has been easy. I got a great deal on a 101 chain guard from ebay. I'm pretty sure it's really for an earlier scout and it doesn't fit the 101. It's too short and doesn't have the cut out for the rear frame member to go by. So I sliced it in two put a 3 inch patch in. I took a piece of 1.25" round stock and used that to shape the cutout and welded it all back together. It's not my best work ever but it will look nice with some paint on it.
IMG_1509.jpg
My old gas tank was beyond repair. Plus I'm worried about gas leaks during the rally. I've seen a couple of pictures of BAD things happening when the gas tank leaks. So I splurged on a new tank. It was closer to fitting then anything else but not quite. One of the mounting holes was off by just a hair and the seat mount bracket was interfering with the tank. So I drilled the mounting hole on the frame one size bigger and ground down the bottom of the seat mount. I had fabricated the seat mount earlier because the original frame didn't have one.

I spent this last weekend working on the headlight. The original light was swiss cheese and I didn't have the glass or reflector for it. I won a tractor headlight off of ebay for $20, patched up the holes and welded the original light's mounting ears on. I little sanding and some filler to hide my welds and it looks just like the original one should have.
s-l1600.jpgIMG_1513.jpg

And this how it came out
IMG_1515.jpg

Before anyone says anything, I know it's upside down. I think it looks better that way and that's how I got it so I'm keeping it that way.

I'm almost afraid to ask, but is there a general consensus on lining the tank? I'm leaning toward leaving it bare metal and trying to keep it full. I live in CA and it's super dry here most of the time so I don't have to worry about wet winters or humid summers. I think I'm more worried about the lining failing and causing a mess. Should I clean/prep and line it or leave it be?

WTR : 46

[Jerry Wieland]

I would avoid a gas tank liner at all cost. New metal should hold liquid with ease - just pressure check for leaks before painting. Jerry

I've been working on the sheet metal the last few weekends. Nothing on this project has been easy. I got a great deal on a 101 chain guard from ebay. I'm pretty sure it's really for an earlier scout and it doesn't fit the 101. It's too short and doesn't have the cut out for the rear frame member to go by. So I sliced it in two put a 3 inch patch in. I took a piece of 1.25" round stock and used that to shape the cutout and welded it all back together. It's not my best work ever but it will look nice with some paint on it.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]26170[/ATTACH]
My old gas tank was beyond repair. Plus I'm worried about gas leaks during the rally. I've seen a couple of pictures of BAD things happening when the gas tank leaks. So I splurged on a new tank. It was closer to fitting then anything else but not quite. One of the mounting holes was off by just a hair and the seat mount bracket was interfering with the tank. So I drilled the mounting hole on the frame one size bigger and ground down the bottom of the seat mount. I had fabricated the seat mount earlier because the original frame didn't have one.

I spent this last weekend working on the headlight. The original light was swiss cheese and I didn't have the glass or reflector for it. I won a tractor headlight off of ebay for $20, patched up the holes and welded the original light's mounting ears on. I little sanding and some filler to hide my welds and it looks just like the original one should have.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]26171[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]26172[/ATTACH]

And this how it came out
[ATTACH=CONFIG]26173[/ATTACH]

Before anyone says anything, I know it's upside down. I think it looks better that way and that's how I got it so I'm keeping it that way.

I'm almost afraid to ask, but is there a general consensus on lining the tank? I'm leaning toward leaving it bare metal and trying to keep it full. I live in CA and it's super dry here most of the time so I don't have to worry about wet winters or humid summers. I think I'm more worried about the lining failing and causing a mess. Should I clean/prep and line it or leave it be?

WTR : 46

[D.A.Bagin]

When I purchased new tanks from IHC for my 440 after suffering 2 separate leak issues on my original tanks, I had the same choice to make. Line or not. I PCd them at 4lbs for 30 mins and checked with soapy water to see if any leaks showed. DO NOT GO TOO HIGH ON THE PSI!!! No leaks no liner. Speaking of new 101 tanks, where can I purchase repo ones that fit?? I have heard that some out there do not fit between the frame rails which would be a major issue.

[pisten-bully]

No leaks no liner.

I think that's good advice with new steel (having had a Caswell's liner fail a few years ago).

Not sure where Dana got his tank, but a friend of mine got a 101 tank from India and the fit was good, the construction looked good, but the fittings were metric and that caused some headaches. Indian Teile-Dienst, Jurgen Mattern in Germany, has well made tanks that fit....soldered not welded.

[pisten-bully]

Dana, looking good there! With your newly made exhaust you were in more control of the fit for the rear header pipe and chainguard...it's pretty tight!

[d_lasher]

>> I would avoid a gas tank liner at all cost. New metal should hold liquid with ease - just pressure check for leaks before painting. Jerry

Thanks for reminding me to do that. Sometimes I get so caught up in the progress I forget the little details like that. I tagged the tank with a reminder.

>>Speaking of new 101 tanks, where can I purchase repo ones that fit??

I got mine from Steve Rinker. I met him at Wauseon this summer and he helped me out finding some parts I needed.

>> I have heard that some out there do not fit between the frame rails which would be a major issue.

Take my comments with a grain of salt. Nothing on my bike has just fit, even the original tank was a very tight fit. But, the front right mount hole was off by about 1/16" so I had to drill the frame's bolt hole out and use a hand file to slot it a little in order to get the bolt in straight. The threads were standard UNF threads. The tank didn't fit between the frame rails at first. I had to grind down the seat mount and the front two mounting tabs on the frame. I didn't want to touch the frame, seems kinda important, the tank mounts were really beefy and looked like I could take some off without affecting their strength at all. There was one spot on the tank where the seam pushed out a little and it got in the way. So I ground that down just enough to get the minimum clearance.

It's still really tight but it doesn't touch the frame and I figure I have just enough clearance for paint!
IMG_1519.jpg

>> With your newly made exhaust you were in more control of the fit for the rear header pipe and chainguard...it's pretty tight!

It's VERY tight, So tight I'm thinking of painting the edge of the chain guard with high temp paint. You would think I would 'be in more control' of the header's location but after working on them for days and cutting and grinding and welding and more cutting and welding you get to the point where if it fits you're done and I'm afraid I hit point. Plus my main concern was the clearance to my leg!

Still a lot more to do!

[gharper]

Dana,

WOW, you're doing a lot and looks like you're earning every piece of it! Guess that's what we enjoy right.....? Here are a few thoughts on your tank.......

1. Whatever you do, be absolutely sure the tank sits FLAT on the supports and when you tighten the bolts it doesn't twist at all. If you don't, it will stress the tank and eventually make it fail, somewhere.

2. I'm a fan of tank liners, never had a problem with them. I have 25 year old cream red kote, no problems. I had my 24 chief tank disassembled, cleaned all parts tin plated and then re-soldered prior to the Cannonball. I did a 2 psi air test, all was well. I did 2 coats of Red Kote tank liner after that which was tricky because the Chief has the shut off valve INSIDE the tank and it has a screen! At the end of the Cannonball, I thought it was weeping a bit on the top seam right at the seat pivot. Last time I rode it, it's a gusher! That's also the ONE place it leaked before I took it apart! I plan to clean it and re-seal it because I don't want to go through that whole proces again and repaint it! I assume I didn't get enough sealer on the top side.

Jon Turney from NZ ran a 27 Scout on the last Cannonball. He bought a new tank from India, looked good so he ran it. Half way through the baffle between the oil and gas compartments failed. He rigged up a plastic oil bottle in the doctors bag he had strapped to the luggage rack and carried on. I think he had an additional 3 quarts of gas because the leak was so bad it went down just as fast as the regular fuel level. Perhaps.... a good tank sealer may have prevented this..... who knows......In my estimation it couldn't hurt.

Now let the tank sealer debate begin.......

Gene

[d_lasher]

Just another fall day in California, 75 degrees, 25 MPH winds, smoke in the air and no power. I decided to clean my workshop and do the first 'finial' mock up.

IMG_0628.jpgIMG_1526.jpg

WTR : 45

[pisten-bully]

Looks good Dana! Hope you get some electricity so you can keep up the great progress!

[d_lasher]

This weekend was about making the rear stand latch and the seat mount strap. Both are harden spring steel and I decided to learn how to heat treat spring steel. I took a metallurgy class in school decades ago and I watched Forged in Fire last week so, yeah I’m an expert.

I use 1075 for the rear stand and 4160 steel for the seat mount. The hardest part was making the bolt hole on the seat strap. The trick ended up to only heat up the little bit you wanted to bend into a curve. I made a little forge out of 5 fire bricks and used my MAP gas torch for the heat supply. Heated the parts until they weren’t magnetic any more and dunked them into the canola oil. The work shop is going to smell like popcorn now for the next few weeks.

This build is all about stretching my comfort zone. I’m trying to learn as much as I can and try and push past the fear factor of never doing it before. On all my past builds I would have just bought these parts and bolted them on.

Here’s a picture of the rear stand latch and the forge. It’s not the prettiest thing but I made it!
58B7A88A-81F6-476A-AA5E-0228EE8CA7B8.jpg. 7F596017-12E8-427B-853A-78BA0B4F370E.jpg

[Steve Swan]

Dana, thank you for your most wonderful thread. your comments about pushing past the fear factor really resonated with me. Thank you for acknowledging that. in the peak of the mid-80's i was at my zenith for taking and making every opportunity i could for learning everything i could, finished a 2 year machine tool program, spent a lot of time in the 70's through the 80's with one of the masters who came from the decades of the late 20's on up. then, life happened and 25 years later i started my JD project. Your commentary is as inspiring as the work you share on your project. For me, your thread IS what the brotherhood shared on this forum is about and nothing else.

[d_lasher]

It’s funny how time flies. It seems like just yesterday I’m sitting in a class wondering why I would ever care about how much carbon is in steel, and the next thing you know I have two kids, a grandchild and I’m trying to find the right temperature to temper steel with .6% carbon in it.

How’s your build coming? I’ve been watching your build and every time I see a progress picture I always think ‘Man his workshop is so clean!’ Mine always looks like a steel mill at the end of a shift. Oil, dirt, steel and tools everywhere.