My 101 Scout Cannonball Build

[tfburke3]

Curius if your thrust washers came from thee flywheel manufacturer.
My last thrust washers were .002 small on the od.
I like a full seat,centered on the face.Unfortunately even nos valve in nos cylinder/seat the seat is almost on the outer edge of valve.I would find oversize valves if possible rather than recess the seats more than necessary.In other words if you hit the face 35deg.and it cleans up,dress the other two angles minimally to get 1/8 or slightly smaller(intake),thenfit the valve to the seat instead of the other way around.
Tom

[d_lasher]

>> Curius if your thrust washers came from thee flywheel manufacturer

No, I got the flywheel from T&O and the thrust washers from Jerry Greer's. As I mentioned above, the flywheel had a problem with the oil hole drilled in the wrong spot as well.

[tfburke3]

My under size washers were also recent JG.
Tom

[d_lasher]

I worked on the valves last weekend. Got all of the seats ground down, very lightly, to 35 deg. and lapped in the valves. I went with sport scout valves but I want to keep the 101's cases and springs. But the sport scout valve collars don't fit in the 101's springs. So I made up four new collars. I bought my lathe just for this project but I never expected to use it so much, or even to make engine parts. I sure hope I'm doing this right. I'm sure you guys are thinking it's just a valve collar but it's the first internal engine part I've every made. I'm just hoping it works.

IMG_1402.jpg

[d_lasher]

First mock up
DC399BB7-8EAE-457A-9C03-29214662F5CC.jpg

Found some issues.
I’m a 1/4” from coil bind.
The magneto doesn’t fit under the sport scout’s front cylinder
The plastic retainer on the transmission’s clutch side bearing is interfering with the clutch hub.

Under my ‘I have to do things three times to get it right’ theory, I’ve got two more mockups to go.

WTR : 59

[d_lasher]

This build would go a lot faster if I didn’t have to work so much to pay for it all.

WTR : 57

[pisten-bully]

This build would go a lot faster if I didn’t have to work so much to pay for it all.

WTR : 57

Hahaha! I hear you!

[Shaky Jake]

This build would go a lot faster if I didn’t have to work so much to pay for it all.

WTR : 57

Hang in there Dana! And thanks for posting your build. I had to chuckle when you said “I swear I spend more time making tools then using them.” So true.

I’m looking forward to riding with you in 2020.


Kevin

.

[kitabel]

More about the coil bind issue?

[d_lasher]

I’ve been on the road for work a lot lately and haven’t had much workshop time. But I did have enough time to get one of my magnetos running. Once again most of the time was spent making the tools.

Here’s my home made magnet charger. Don’t judge it on its looks, it’s mostly scrap parts I had laying around the shop.
0F733FBB-2B2D-4AF2-9D18-369FD78E4558.jpg

And here’s a video to the test jig I made for my drill press making a spark!

Many thanks to gharper who gave me some tips on magnetos when I met him in Denver. Mostly just that they’re not black magic and a little studying would be all I needed.

Kitabel, when I mocked up the engine a few weeks ago, I was .250 inches from coil binding the valve springs. I was able to get it to .5 inches just by modifying the valve keeps, and guides, and putting the gaskets on. I’m using a sport scout head and valves, and 101 springs and cams. So there’s a little bit of mismatching going on.

WTR : 55

[Shaky Jake]

Excellent. Thanks for posting the video.


Kevin

.

[d_lasher]

It was a good weekend. I got two of my three magnetos working!

But, no one seemed to notice I was driving my test jig the wrong way. I thought the NS2's were counter clockwise, but they rotate clockwise. And, I had the magnet installed backwards. I reread the scout 101 R & O manual and there was an appendix on the magnetos. It clearly showed I had both backwards. Rotated the magnet, turned the magneto around and everything still worked, big spark. The only problem is, I only have one working cap, and one brush for the pickup and no brushes for the rotor. Anyone have any good ideas for the brushes?

The next thing on my weekend list was finishing the cylinders. I got the coil bind issue resolved by taking a little off my new springs and shortening my valve keepers a little. I'm up to about 0.350 from coil bind. That should be fine. I also had to cut down some of the fins on the front cylinder to make room for the magneto. I left about 1/4" space from the cylinder to the mag case. I'm hoping that's enough so the magneto doesn't overheat. The only thing left for the top end is honing the cylinders to fit the pistons.

Next weekend, the carburetor.

WTR : 53

[kitabel]

I'm sorry I haven't been following this closely.
.350" to coil bind is way, way more than any safety margin I ever heard of, like 5 times too much. It won't hurt anything, but how do you know you have enough spring load for the valves to operate properly at speed? Do you have specs for closed and full lift spring tension?

[d_lasher]

I'm trying to get the spring loads as close to the original 101 values as I can. I'm getting the specs from George Yarocki's notes in the 101 R & O manual.

[kitabel]

If you're satisfied that the actual seated and full open spring tension are within limits excess coil bind distance is harmless.
The assembled distance is only useful if you are using a spring with the actual lb. per inch deflection rate.