Powerplus or Bust, Eh?

[Shaky Jake]

Pretty sure it went like this...
Two little Indian (transmissions) sitting in the sun;

On got frizzled up and then there was one.

Just kidding! They look great, Nice Work!!

Time will tell. Either way, we're ready!

Thanks Jim.




Kevin

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[Shaky Jake]

Coincidentally, a few hours before you posted this I had decided to make a felt seal for the output shaft of my 1928 Ariel:

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbth...l-c#Post724959

I already had ordered the felt but was wondering how I would cut it once it arrived so that the ID would be a snug fit over the shaft. Not that anyone is counting, but your post about cutting felt was 18 months ago (time flies when you're having fun):

http://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/bbo...elt#post156426

I hope that was of help to you. Can't wait to see you're Ariel in Maine. We gonna do some ridin'!




Kevin

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[BoschZEV]

I hope that was of help to you.

It definitely was. However, I still haven't figured out a good solution to get all my stuff, organized or not, to ME and home from OR.

Can't wait to see you're Ariel in Maine. We gonna do some ridin'!

Indeed. Hopefully, all of approx. 3750 miles worth of riding.

[Shaky Jake]

I thought you guys would enjoy these pictures that my friend Bob Alf sent me. He put my Cannonball cases on his mill and checked how square the decks and the mag shelf are to the bearing bores. One of the decks is square within .003 inches and the other is within .005. He offered to square them up, but we agreed they're not bad and I hate to take metal off these old parts if I don't have to.

The mag shelf is off a little more, but the mag gear lash was nice and tight when I assembled it for 2016, so I elected not to cut any metal off. I don't want to have to shim the mag base if I don't have to.










Kevin

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[Shaky Jake]

Friends,

Team Kelly's Heroes is now offering these T-shirts with a beautiful 3-color graphic to help with expenses related to our Motorcycle Cannonball effort. They also have the image of my number plate on the left sleeve. These are nice 50/50 cotton/polyester shirts in heather gray. Right now we Have them in sizes M, L, and XL, XXL and XXXL. We are asking $20 each for the shirts, and postage is $3.00 in the lower 48 states. Quantities are limited, so please message me with your size and quantities. I will message you back with the address to send your check to. If you live outside of the continental US, let me know where you are and we'll figure out how much postage would be. Thanks for your support!








Thanks again for your support.


Kevin

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[Shaky Jake]

Thanks everyone for the enthusiastic response on these shirts. We are sold out of Mediums and XXXL's. We still have L, XL, and XXL's. Everyone who has messaged me so far has a shirt reserved for them.




Kevin

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[TH47Indy]

Hey Jake,

Your PM is fiull. I love to support you and have one of your shirts. I'm an XL.

Please send me the info to order. I look forward to following your experience!

Thanks.
Terry

[Shaky Jake]

Sorry everyone who tried to message me yesterday evening and couldn't get through. My inbox was full. I've cleared it now. Terry, I've got you down for an XL. I'll send you a message with the info.

Thanks guys, sorry for the trouble.


Kevin

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[Shaky Jake]

This isn't my Cannonball motor, but I thought you guys might like to see these pictures. This is a set of cases that I bought from a friend for another 1916 Indian I'm building. The mounting bolt holes and rear cylinder baffles had already been repaired and the right side case and timing cover were a matched set, but the left side case wasn't matched to the right. My friend Bob Alf did some work to match the cases. He doweled and skimmed the vertical joints. Then he align honed the bearing bores and squared the cylinder decks and magneto pad to the bearing centerline. It turned out really nice. This is going to be a great bike.














Cheers my friends,

Kevin

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[Shaky Jake]

I wanted to post a little about my swing arm. It's one of the things I ran out of time and didn't get around to, and it was so sloppy and bent that the bike handled like a wet spaghetti noodle. On top of that, several threaded holes were stripped so my chain guard was held on with safety wire, and my rear stand was always threatening to come off. It might not sound very interesting from a technical standpoint, but it actually took a couple of days to get it sorted out. The first step, of course, was to remove it.










The pins that connect the swing arm to the spring struts were worn and had no clips on them. In fact the clip grooves were worn away. The pins were held in by old, old paint. It must have been some of that good lead paint. I ordered new pins from Z.O.C.








One of the chain adjusters was broken off. Judging by the paint over the broken surface, it's been that way for a long, long time. It was a jagged break, so I smoothed it with a die grinder before I started drilling.











The drilling went well. Right down the middle of the threads.












Of course, I tried an easy out, momentarily, but I never expect those things to work, especially on metal this old. When two pieces of metal have been in contact for that long, sometimes they basically become one piece of metal.








Stay tuned, I'll continue this in the next post, same bat time, same bat station.




Kevin


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[Steve Swan]

Kevin, do you have a set of straight flute extractors ? The extractor has no taper, the diameter of the extractor is the same the entire distance of the extractor. my experience, i believe the spiral extractors like eze-outs can make the problem worse, seems they actually expand the metal needing removed into the surrounding metal. i got a set of the straight flute extractors from MAC and will never go back.

SCEX20S_CSE_1.jpg

[Shaky Jake]

Kevin, do you have a set of straight flute extractors ? The extractor has no taper, the diameter of the extractor is the same the entire distance of the extractor. my experience, i believe the spiral extractors like eze-outs can make the problem worse, seems they actually expand the metal needing removed into the surrounding metal. i got a set of the straight flute extractors from MAC and will never go back.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]21698[/ATTACH]

I have one that I made years ago out of a square punch. It didn't work in this case either. I agree with your observation about the spiral extractors Steve. The one in the picture came with a Snap-on set that includes left-handed drill bits. The drill bits work pretty good, sometimes they spin the piece right out. The spiral extractors almost never work for me, and I've seen them break off. Good comment.


Kevin

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[Steve Swan]

yes, after going through a couple sets of eze-outs, breaking them, slipping in the holes, i threw them away when the shop i worked for introduced me to the Mac's. the Mac's haven't failed me. Yet.

[Shaky Jake]

Left handed drills, spiral extractors, square extractors, all that and more, but like I said, when two pieces of metal are together for that long, they become one piece of metal. Once you think of it that way, the solution is simple, drill the hole out to the minor diameter of the threads, and tap new threads into it. So that's what I did. Usually, with new metal, when you drill them out that far you can see the threads in the hole, and then take a dentist's pick and remove what's left of the bolt threads. In this case, I drilled it out all the way to the Minor diameter of the old threads, but you couldn't see any thread lines in the hole. The two pieces of metal had become one. To coin a term, I call it "Time Welding."









And there you have it, with the new adjuster installed. In this picture you can also see the Time-sert that I had installed to fix the threads for the rear stand pivot.








The swing arm bushings had .025 to .030 inches clearance on the diameter. Crazy loose. You couldn't hardly push this bike in a straight line while walking beside it. It was like a sidewinder snake. So the old bushings came out.










The original bushings are hardened steel. Some of you guys might not like this, but I made the new bushings out of Nylatron, on the advice of a respected friend.














And then I pressed them in:








This pivot shaft I bought from Dale Walksler. It was used, but much better than my old one. I made the bushings really tight, and they feel good. Probably even tight enough to provide a little damping, but they feel really smooth.








To be continued.

Kevin

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[Shaky Jake]

More on the swing arm. I repaired several threaded holes on it with thread inserts. I know thread inserts aren't we're interesting, we've all used them, but I was excited to find this kit for 1/4" - 24 tpi holes, so I thought I'd post. On these early Indians all of the threaded fasteners are 24 tpi, from 1/4 to 1-1/2 inch diameter. Apparently HD used 1/4-24 at some point too, but they aren't very common anymore. I was happy to find this. If you need one, shop around because some people are asking crazy money for them.










The kit came with the drill bit, tap and installation tool. It also has a cutter for facing off the insert after it's installed, so its flush.










In other news, here's one of the rear stand pivot holes that I repaired:








And here's the smaller (1/2 inch) Nylatron bushing I made for the spring strut:








Kevin

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