First start 41 scout this weekend... or at least a try

[c.o.]

If nothing else you are going to know your bike when you get it up to snuff! If you still have problems after the new float and needle fix maybe take us through your procedures and somebody just may be able to walk you through it. The quarter inch thing I think is standard but are you allowing for the slight offset as well? When you said you had it running prior to the wires melting, did you think the carb was set right at that point?

[41indian]

Cory,

Thanks I agree ;-)

So I got the carb off and was going to send it to V-Twin Mfg Shop in New York but after two phone calls and a few mails they said I needed a dealer to send it in? So I think I'll just rebuilt it myself and order parts from Linkertcarbs.com.

I took it apart and it looks to be in good shape overall but the float was full of gas so I will go with a composite model.

What I can't figure out is if I have the 1 1/4" or 1" model?

The Carb is marked M741-1 and the side of the body has 1 MOD M and 2 5 8 stamped below that.

The kits reference straight inlet threads vs. tapered and Harley vs. Indian and I have the straight threads.

Any thoughts? on the size and how to tell?
IMG_20140124_203120.jpgIMG_20140124_212255767.jpgIMG_20140124_212310855.jpgIMG_20140124_212351423.jpgIMG_20140122_162548119.jpg

[T. Cotten]

41Indian!

Your carb is nominally a 1" Model.
The -1 means you have a 3/4" venturi instead of a 13/16", by my notes.

If you intend to run the "jeep" filter, you will need a valve with tapered pipe threads (1/8"-NPT). A straight one (7/16"-27) will accept a recut with a common pipe die, as the threads per inch are the same.

Carburetors are quite forgiving, but intake leaks are not.
Please bubble-test as discussed at http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html, and let us know how it goes,

....Cotten

[41indian]

First thanks for all the help you guys Rock!

Thanks for the info so I have the 1" got it
1.What is a "jeep" filter?
2. The inlet I have now has the brass threads that are not NPT but straight pipe this should be fine right if I run an in line filter with hose to each end?
3. Yes I plan to make a plate and bubble test , the float full of gas however is my primary concerns and hopefully some of the problem.

[c.o.]

Now that you've got Cotten's attention, all should be well. The bubble test can save a lot of tale chasing. Mind you a float full of gas hasn't been helping you much either. I've not used the "Rubber Ducky's" but can most certainly recommend the floats that Cotten makes.

[T. Cotten]

C.O. posted: "Now that you've got Cotten's attention, all should be well."

Now Cory,

This one's out of my control, but I'm here to help.

41Indian should be encouraged to tackle his carb for his own reward. I am certain that most individuals are as thorough as the majority of commercial rebuilders.

41Indian!

Just for reference, it would have been produced with "aluminum lacquer" finish upon the body.
(I have observed evidence that the bowl was painted as well in '41.)
The small hardware would have been a mix of cad and nickel.

For general inspection, first look for an 'eyebrow' of wear from the throttledisc into the body bore. It is usually accompanied by a 'key' of wear upon the disc (attached).

Almost everything else is covered in the book.

....Cotten
PS: Folks,
One of the most inscrutable pieces of purportedly "factory" Linkert literature that I have ever been privy to is a blueprint that cites an incredible float setting of 7/16", twice on the sheet.

[c.o.]

[QUOTE=T. Cotten;137237]C.O. posted: "Now that you've got Cotten's attention, all should be well."

Now Cory,

This one's out of my control, but I'm here to help.

41Indian should be encouraged to tackle his carb for his own reward. [QUOTE]

Cotten!

He should definitely tackle that carb.... it's just not a bad thing to have your input. Your advice has helped a bike or two of mine run better and I know this Scout owner is going to be stoked when his bike ticks over like an old watch.

[T. Cotten]

Cory!

I merely meant that my presence is no guarantee of success.
If only it were,...

Meanwhile, a review of this alleged 'factory' M741 specifications sheet has opened my eyes to mystery after mystery.

The little idle bleed hole to the rear of the carb bore is called the "upper idle hole", and the large hole forward is called the "lower"..

Curious.

Then: "SLOT.009" gives us no clue as to how the slot was achieved.

But it indicates that "UPPER IDLE HOLE .007" FARTHER AWAY FROM DISC THAN STANDARD M7 DRILLIJNG -"

Now I must start logging the distances between idle bleed holes?
(There goes another six months of R&D budget.)

And just where is the disc?

"AIR INT. DISC NOTCH MUST BE NEXT TO BOWL-"

Okay, the 'air intake disc' is the chokeplate. But what is the "notch", and how does one get it next to the bowl?

Still just a student of these things,
Thanks in advance for any clues at all,

....Cotten
PS: 41Scout!
Here's what I meant by the 'Jeep" filter; Please contact Robin Markey for correct applications, because I have no clue.

[41indian]

Awesome! Cotten how do I get one of your floats?

[T. Cotten]

41Indian!

You can always contact me directly at liberty@npoint.net,
but since you have already spent for a RD, you might as well get your mileage out of it.
It will do great until you stop at the wrong gas pump.

I cannot view your photos well, but you do well to get rid of the soft-tipped floatvalve. Any of the metal-needle valves on the market are fine.

Aside from the borewear issue, please inspect for a loose venturi.
After thorough cleaning of body and venturi, install the venturi and hold the assembly up to light, and carefully inspect for daylight around it.

The manuals also do not address distortion of the manifold flange from fastener stress. It is easily dressed upon a flat stone or sheet of stick-on emery upon glass, and the aircleaner flange likes it too.

Your needle points may show blemishes that are easily dressed with a stone, if you have a way to spin it (attached).

Carefull observation will always turn up concerns not covered in the manuals, after seventy years or so.

....Cotten

[41indian]

Cotten et al,

Thanks for the great info and I an definitely a hands on guy and learning about the carb more and more. The confusion was on the various options.

I've cleaned it, the venturi is tight. The throttle plate does not have a key but is stamped with a 12.

High speed needle looks good low speed is grooved and I may just order a fresh one from Linkert.

I'll run rubber ducky for now and set it at 1/4 but saw your note on 7/16 so I'll need to decide I guess.

Did a flat sand on the flanges to get them looking good.

Not using a Jeep filter just an inline for now should be ok?

QUESTION: For the main jet I could not tell which way the holes face when it came out any need for orientation?

[T. Cotten]

41indian!

Please set the float at 1/4", as per the military Operation and Maintenance Manual.
You may choose to set it slightly shallower if you choose a fat gasket.
(No gasket was spec'd!)

The 7/16" setting on the blueprint is only one of several enigmatic dimensions, such as rotating the bowl to where the valve is 15/64" from the aircleaner flange. History is full of mysteries.

The spray nozzle need not be indexed, however there is a tradition to aim the holes forward toward the air correction slot in the venturi. Perhaps it was in a TM or a Service Shot.

.....Cotten

[41indian]

OK!

Carb went back together great all clean no leaks float is working.

I got her running and idling great!

I figured out that since I had the rev's up I was on the fast idle circuit and had to slowly back off the throttle and the spark advance then turn the needle in and repeat to get is stable at slower speeds.

Hope to put her in gear and re-wire my brain in the morning for foot clutch and right hand shift

Thank you guys for all the advice.

[c.o.]

Great news!!! How did that ride go?

[41indian]

Didn't get a chance with Superbowl prep