A real DLX-113?

[rwar]

There is carburetor on ebay that is described (and stamped) as a DLX-113, but it looks considerably different than the one on my bike. And the one on my bike looks like the drawings on Greer's website.

Maybe someone here with more knowledge can help. Is it real? Could it fit right and work well even if it wasn't?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271104499904


Thanks,
Rich

[sirhrmechanic]

http://www.linkertcarbs.com/linkertr...rburetors.html

Try this guy. He'es done a couple of carbs for me and they have run well. He will be able to help you either with the one on eBay (I was watching it too) or with finding one.

The Into the Wilderness Web site is really good, too.

Cheers,

Sirhr

[rwar]

I appreciate the reply.

Mine almost runs great, but I haven't been able to find a float level that both keeps enough gas for long periods of open throttle but still won't leak out the top on the side stand. At least that was the problem until I twisted off the old repair piece on the bowl threads. I have the parts to fix it now but have been looking around for another carb to work with as well.

That one on ebay seems to be a lot later design, and probably has the air hole up higher so it could possibly help my leaning situation. So I might still use it even if it's not truly correct, as long as I had some confidence that it would work without a lot of follow-on mods to jury rig it.

Rich

[Rubone]

Contact Tom Cotten at Liberty Motorcycle Specialties, you won't be disappointed.
309-246-3509
Robbie

[rwar]

The carburetor I had asked about has been listed again. It looks much more modern than my existing DLX-113. Perhaps the knowledgeable people here can tell me if it's something that would actually work on a '39 Four?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271115077655

[Glr101s]

I compared to an NOS Dlx-113 that I have for my 38 Four. Carb body is right, bowl is wrong

[T. Cotten]

Sorry to get into this so late, Folks,

But I must borrow a PC to view ebay.
I cannot see anything but a thumbnail otherwise and that one indeed has a '40 bowl, as Glr101s noted.
The bare finish and broken choketab only tell you it is a raw core.
I have no idea what that throttlelever is...

The real criteria for a 113 is how many times it has been on fire.
And even ones that appear pristine on the outside can still require a re-bore, due to the fluid nature of the potmetal. Many are egged to the naked eye.

Beware of re-stamped 112s, as the idle bleed holes are wrong, and not easily repaired.

The next pig in the poke would be the eroded bowlstem thread issue, which is the scourge of all potmetal models. The appearance of threads alone is often not enough.

Their issues go on and on.
I have two on the bench currently, and I confess they have been here a while!

....Cotten

[rwar]

I was sure hoping Mr. Cotten would jump in on this.

It was the bowl that was throwing me way off, I guess. So the incorrect bowl, which looks like a newer Linkert to me, would actually fit and work on the body that was made for the type of bowl with the long tin lid?

Rich

[T. Cotten]

Anything could be made to get down the road, Rich, of course!

But eventually, you will want it "correct".

The trick is to avoid spending twice.

....Cotten

[rwar]

I guess it makes sense to pass this one up and just get my original carb going. I've not gotten much riding in on this bike and I might be letting impatience lead me astray.

It has a sleeve on the stem to replace damaged original threads, which I managed to mess up again in the course of trying to get the float level set somewhere between overflow on the kickstand and starving on full throttle. I have a new repair kit from Greer's to use on it, and have built up the kickstand for a somewhat less drastic angle.

Thanks,
Rich

1939 Indian Four 4.jpg

[T. Cotten]

Rich!

Does your 'sleeve' look like this one?

....Cotten

[rwar]

Not quite. I have this one: https://www.jerrygreersengineering.c...fs/JG-3473.pdf. You're supposed to machine and rethread your old stem then screw this onto it. But my carburetor already had a different kind of repair kit, where the stem has been turned down smooth and the new threaded sleeve is held on it with a small roll pin. I presume all I can do now is hold the new sleeve in place the same way.

Thanks,
Rich

[T. Cotten]

Rich!

I discarded the pinning approach after observing the failed previous attempts of others.
The nature of the brittle potmetal just sees the pin as a convenient stress riser.

The approach in my photo requires much less machining to the bowlstem, as only the damaged threads are removed with a common piloted valveguide cutter, and the nozzle bore is tapped to retain the appliance. The more meat left on the bowlstem, the more strength it retains.

There is no need for a thread-locker, as it is intended to be removeable; Red Loctite is futile in my local fuel anyway.

When there are enough threads left to pick up on, I can also merely turn the bowlstem to 11/16"-20, for special bowlnuts that I commissioned. This allows a substantial savings over an appliance repair.

Later potmetal models can also be welded up and re-machined, of course, but early models, such as the 80 series, have resisted my best tigmeister's attempts, so far.

....Cotten

[Snakeoil]

May I jump on this thread since it would keep the info all under the same topic heading?

I am a new 439 owner with zero experience with Indians. The bike is fully restored. When I brought the bike home it puked gas all over the inside of my trailer. I assumed the float was stuck, sunk or similar. I also noticed that the floorboard mat on that side was puckered a bit. At first I thought it was heal wear, but now know it is from gasoline. Carb is the same DLX 113, but realize the model might be different this being a 1939 version.

In another thread I had asked about lean angle, since this bike seemed to lean quite a bit compared to other bikes I own. But it appears to be okay. So, my question is, is this carb/bike prone to overflowing from the bowl when on the sidestand? Is there a fix, like perhaps adding a tube to the vent (don't even know if that is possible) to raise the height?

Based on what I read here so far, it appears that overflowing on the sidestand and starving for fuel are conflicting issues where one feeds the other. Is that a valid assessment.

I'm in the middle of a resto on another bike and prefer to work on one at a time. So, I'm gathering info on my new baby for spring, when I hope to sort her out and have her on the road.

And if adding questions to another's thread is frowned upon here, just give me a smack and I'll start a new thread on the topic.

Thanks,
Rob

[T. Cotten]

Rob!

We all are only students of these machines.
We all ask for help.

The '38 DLX113 was different from the '39 by its choke assembly, at least, and frankly, I figure even that may have changed within both model years. (Judging by the fossil record across my benches, anyway. Pristine '40 DLX124s do not even agree with each other.)

If all things are in order, the carb should not drool.
Many did, and many caught fire from the ignition beneath it.
Your replacement float must not only resist modern fuels,
but it must be of the same buoyancy as originals.

The bowlstems of these later potmetal models are TIG-able,
but recut threads of potmetal filler rods are little better than the originals, if that.
Most repair appliances are 'one-offed' from brass, with carefull attention.
Beware of soft sleeves of aluminum, or anything that is pinned, as the eventual fatique may hinder any future repairs short of welding, and subsequent re-machining.

....Cotten