Schebler DLX130 float level 1940 Chief

[39ChiefBonnie]

Hi All, would anyone know the correct float level for the one year only DLX130 Carb for 1940 Chief? This is a one year only unit with the larger onion shaped bowl. The following year Indian went to M series Linkerts and I know they are 1/4. Schebler Delux was 7/16. Thank you Matt

[T. Cotten]

Folks are using ¼", Matt!

But that is with floats that float.

.....Cotten
PS: Although the original float for "beanpot" bowls was slightly different (on the right)...

BEANFLOT.jpg

A Linkert float is interchangeable.

...Cotten
PPS: That's with a .032" gasket...

40gskt.jpg

[exeric]

I sold a DLX130 to a guy that had to have it for his 'do-or-die' project. After I gave him a good (and I mean a good) deal, he confessed he was going to re-stamp the number to use it on a VL. I told him that would be hard to fake, and a stupid idea as it was worth more as a 1940 Indian item. He considered it a win, and walked off. I really wish he hadn't told me that. How anyone makes money on this hobby is beyond my comprehension . . . I guess the money is made when you buy and object, and not when you sell it.

[T. Cotten]

I sold a DLX130 to a guy that had to have it for his 'do-or-die' project. After I gave him a good (and I mean a good) deal, he confessed he was going to re-stamp the number to use it on a VL. I told him that would be hard to fake, and a stupid idea as it was worth more as a 1940 Indian item. He considered it a win, and walked off. I really wish he hadn't told me that. How anyone makes money on this hobby is beyond my comprehension . . . I guess the money is made when you buy and object, and not when you sell it.

Even tattoo'd, Eric,...

Not only would the 'beanpot' be a glaring error on any HD, so would be both '40-only needle knobs, as well as the throttle lever, and probably the choke lever.

Pearls before swine,....

....Cotten

[T. Cotten]

Back to Matt's original question, Folks,...

Service Shot #99 appears to spec 11/32" from top of bowl cover.

Even though its dated upon the eve of the beanpot model productions, this would seem to be applicable to the previous potmetal models, where subtracting the cover and gasket gets you back to a confusing .266".

Srvsht99.jpg

Without contemporary specs, we can only conjure.

....Cotten
PS: I made a die to punch gaskets for the top of '29-'39 covers, bringing it closer to a quarter-inch!

[39ChiefBonnie]

That's great information Cotton. I'm going to run with that. Just finished this matching number 1940 Chief in Jade Green with magneto ignition.

[pisten-bully]

^^^ outstanding Chief Matt, well done!

[T. Cotten]

That's great information Cotton....

But wait, Matt,...

There's more!

(Ignoring the ubiquitous bowlstem thread issue for now,...)

'40s suffered their own unique resto concerns, such as a lack of screw access to the lowspeed needle knob spring; Please inspect that the spring is not fatigued allowing slop upon the needle. (Replacing the dowel is a chore.)

40LSKNOB.jpg

Also unique is the throttlelever which is staked upon the throttleshaft (on right.), making replacement complicated.

40THROTL.jpg

Beware also of the spun brass venturi, often distorted, worn into the bore, fragile at the nozzle hole, and extremely difficult to swage oversize..

40vntrpr.jpg

Replacement with an oversized conventional venturi is par for the course.

....Cotten

[39ChiefBonnie]

Wow this is good info. I have replaced the original brass venturi and the throttle shaft. But I didn't know about the low speed needle knob spring. I will check that in the morning. Thanks!

[T. Cotten]

Wow this is good info. I have replaced the original brass venturi and the throttle shaft. But I didn't know about the low speed needle knob spring. I will check that in the morning. Thanks!

Did you locate an NOS shaft with a lever installed, or cut and stake one of your own, Matt?

An "incorrect" common shaft would require the common throttle lever (on left in previous pic);

The '40 shaft was retained at the bottom by a spring, washer, and pin (badly worn example shown; Another washer spaced the lever to the top bushing. You replaced and fit the bushings of course?)...



....Cotten
PS: Since you have already procured a venturi, I must annoy with another question, Matt! There was no borewear from the throttledisc to repair?

eyebrow.jpg
(Bronze model shown; Potmetals' were usually worse.)

PPS: Just for posterity, I must archive a pic of the '40-only HS needle knob as well:

40HSKNOB.jpg

And beware some '40s were outfitted with a fixed jet!

DLX128jet.JPG
(Note the ubiquitous bowlstem thread issue...)

PPS: Can anyone explain the listing of Bonneville carburetors for '39 and '40 in the 1940 parts catalog?

Indian40LIST.jpg

Thanks in advance,

[39ChiefBonnie]

Hi Cotton,

Wow lots to respond to there. I didn't know about the one year only parts you have referred to. I have two DLX130 carburetors. The one on my 40 Chief came with my 39 Chief. It doesn't have the correct throttle shaft - it had been replaced previously with the later version. I would like to put the correct one back in (you can still get the correct spring, washer and split pin, but not the shaft). It does have the correct high and low speed needles. There was no bore wear from the throttle disk. The problem I do have with it is the high-speed needle will not seat. Not sure if this is because there is wear or corrosion inside the body. It has been difficult to tune.

[39ChiefBonnie]

Hi Cotton,

Here are some pictures of the second unit I have. It has the correct throttle shaft with the disk screws soldered in - no spring washers used. So it's going to be challenging to get that out. It has the original venturi - which seemed to measure up although there is some throttle disk wear. Only have the body - no bowl. It was fitted with a body drill plug that has a hole in it like the one pictured above. This has been soldered to block it. What is a fixed jet? Thanks

[39ChiefBonnie]

I'm also interested in the explanation of the listing of Bonneville carburetors for '39 in the 1940 parts catalog. My 39 Chief is a Bonneville.

[T. Cotten]

Has anyone ever encountered an example of a Scheb stamped DLX-BONN, Folks?

I failed to record if these were three or four-line Linkert bodies,

bonstmps.jpg

But the punchmarks indicate they were early, as per Shop Dope #106...

ShopDope 33.jpg
So we are led to presume that Linkert Bonne's were available contemporarily with the last Scheblers. We might also assume that soon after the problem was diagnosed, they all would produced with a #55 bleed, and the punchmark unnecessary.

This implies that Bonne's could have been installed to Indians as early as '33! If it has a nickle four-line script body, even without a punchmark, we have a winner.

Note also some Beck Linkerts were pre-'40 nickle vintage:

Beck m6stamp nickel.jpg

Without better examples, I'm just conjuring...

......Cotten

[T. Cotten]

...I would like to put the correct one back in (you can still get the correct spring, washer and split pin, but not the shaft)....

I believe I inverted a 1½" shaft, drilled the pin hole, and lathe-turned and filed it to stake (or silver-solder) into the lever. (But that was some time ago!)

..There was no bore wear from the throttle disk...

I'll take your word for it, Matt; A lot of NOS '40s seemed to survive in the box.

... The problem I do have with it is the high-speed needle will not seat. ..

Does it bottom out at the knob? Chasing the threads requires a ¼"-40tpi tap and die.
(Beware also that with any Schebler HS needle, if it has been removed, the bowl must be removed to inspect its aim, lest it may stab the seat and cause damage...

NDLMISS (2).jpg

ndlgoug2.jpg

Needle miss 3.jpg

And a 'fixed jet' is any gallery plug that has been drilled as a metering orifice, like the pic I posted. It supplies the majority of the fuel, and the needle adds only what is needed with more sensitivity. Both Linkert and Schebler debut'd the jet in '40.
(I have a surplus of the plugs, but we would need to know the bore to replace your soldered plug, although it would probably run anyway!)

....Cotten
PS: I would inspect the fit of the spun venturi in the body with no bore wear, and save the swageable venturi for after the other body is serviced.