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Schebler DLX130 float level 1940 Chief

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  • 39ChiefBonnie
    replied
    Great info and the photos really add to the understanding. Thank you.

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Originally posted by 39ChiefBonnie View Post
    Nice equipment!! What angle is the grinding stone/needle? Thanks
    Its an ancient flat-belt Van Dorn valve grinder, Matt,..
    Gifted to me by Ronnie Kingsley from his father Richard Kingsley, both longtime Chief Blackhawk members, and both sadly missed.

    Highspeed angles varied:

    HX 30º
    GX 27º - 30º
    DLX 30º

    SV HD 30º
    OHV HD 45º
    M74B 22º
    M53, 53A1, M74, and probably others have stepped HS needles, and the -53 series has stepped LS needles.

    My fossil record for lowspeeds varies greatly, and should only be measured geometrically.

    (The Van Dorn is still set,.. but its way way off the scale!)

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 05-21-2024, 01:21 PM.

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  • 39ChiefBonnie
    replied
    Nice equipment!! What angle is the grinding stone/needle? Thanks

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    A freshly dressed point, Matt,...

    NEEDLSTONE.JPG

    Usually gives the best reading.

    ....Cotten
    PS: Sometimes you must grind them from scratch; Idle needle shown...

    NEDLGRND.jpg
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 05-17-2024, 10:32 AM.

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  • 39ChiefBonnie
    replied
    Ok well I will try inking and see what happens. Thanks

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Inking is my only clue, Matt,...

    DLXPOINT.jpg

    The seats may well start out with straight sides, but they don't stay that way!

    NDLROLL.jpg

    ....Cotten

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  • 39ChiefBonnie
    replied
    That's a nice bit of kit. I only have a basic knowledge of these carburetors. When I looked at my seat closely by positioning a very small bright light it looked like it comprised an angled almost vertical straight walled hole drilled through to the corresponding horizontal plug hole. I could just see the very tip of the needle if fully screwed in. The needle is tapered. Is the seat a straight through hole or is it meant to be tapered to match he needle? Thanks

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    But wait! There's more!...

    After a guide is installed and indexed, damaged seats can be dressed with a simple cutter piloted through a Euro-repop military-style "knob":

    SEATCUT3.jpg

    (Just ignore the sloppy silver-soldered wing-nut; I was always in a hurry.)

    ...Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 05-12-2024, 01:52 PM.

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  • 39ChiefBonnie
    replied
    Very cool!

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Not a good pic, Matt,..

    NDLGUID2.JPG

    Its just a quarter inch of quarter-inch PEEK with quarter-forty threads, and slotted for a screwdriver.

    The hard part is getting the bore eccentric enough to where it can be aimed when every carb is different. It usually took a few tries, so every one was a custom installation.

    I can't cut one "blind", but I can sell you PEEK cores at a quarter a gram!

    PEEKCORE.jpg

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 05-08-2024, 12:33 PM.

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  • 39ChiefBonnie
    replied
    Hi Cotton,

    Pressure from the friction ball spring pushing on the ball bearing to the HS needle knob.

    Do you have a picture of the internal needle guide you developed? Are they available? Thanks

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    The spring pressure from the detentes, Matt,..

    Is exactly why I developed an internal needle guide; Potmetal (ZAMAC) is technically a super-cooled liquid, like window glass, and "moves" over the decades, although bronze Schebler bodies benefit from a guide as well.

    (Aligning the lowspeed on 1" models without a lift lever seems impossible, since it cannot be observed.)

    Usually, I tended to the borewear before I worried about fitting a venturi (and oversized disc).

    ....Cotten

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  • 39ChiefBonnie
    replied


    cghmgchm.jpg dtyjtdyj.jpg
    Hi Cotton,

    You were right the lift lever was a Linkert. Well spotted. I have a Schebler above one and a shaft coming in the mail.

    I used the ¼"-40tpi tap and die to chase the threads on the HS and looking at it I think it is seating better. The pressure of the ball and spring on the knob tend to push the bottom of the needle across so it's not in the center of the hole. I did cut the thread a bit deeper into the body.

    I managed to swage the spun brass venturi oversize so it fits without any gaps - I'll see how that goes. (ordered a another new one just in case).

    Thank you for all your help.

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    First, Matt,...

    Please take that evil drillbit set and hide it from yourself. They are just about the worst thing you can do to a carb that doesn't need it.

    Next, the contact of the needlepoint and seat can be inspected with a 'dry-erase' or other felt-tip marker. (I remedied any misalignment by tapping much deeper into the body, and installing an indexable needle guide bushing with a slightly offset bore, cut from PEEK.)

    And '40 was a particularly bad year for leadpest.
    Helicoils, and re-cutting most gasket surfaces, are prudent.

    Yep, that's borewear. Normally its greater at the top, but your '40 'friction' spring is on the bottom!

    ....Cotten
    PS: Your lowspeed lift lever looks a little Linkert; Got a side pic?

    LSLEVERS.jpg
    (Schebler on left, Linkert in middle, and 1" Linkert on right.)

    PPS: I'd LOVE to have a genuine L&L drill kit, Folks!
    LINKTULS.jpg
    But it would be for reference and display only.
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 05-01-2024, 02:00 PM.

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  • 39ChiefBonnie
    replied
    erth.jpg srth.jpg srthh.jpg tdyj.jpg

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