Schebler DLX130 float level 1940 Chief

[RonH]

Has anyone ever encountered an example of a Scheb stamped DLX-BONN, Folks?

I failed to record if these were three or four-line Linkert bodies,

bonstmps.jpg

But the punchmarks indicate they were early, as per Shop Dope #106...

ShopDope 33.jpg
So we are led to presume that Linkert Bonne's were available contemporarily with the last Scheblers. We might also assume that soon after the problem was diagnosed, they all would produced with a #55 bleed, and the punchmark unnecessary.

This implies that Bonne's could have been installed to Indians as early as '33! If it has a nickle four-line script body, even without a punchmark, we have a winner.

Note also some Beck Linkerts were pre-'40 nickle vintage:

Beck m6stamp nickel.jpg

Without better examples, I'm just conjuring...

......Cotten

I have that carb on my shelf. What year is it for?

[T. Cotten]

I have that carb on my shelf. What year is it for?

Which 'that' carb are you referring to, Ron?

If you mean the Beck M6, it listed by everyone's favorite ebay hero for 1939-1942 Indian Chiefs, but Tom Powell listed it as for '38 and earlier Chiefs with airhorn, which makes a lot more sense.

And here's an M6 without INDIAN, the two-screw intake, and the very early production casting sprue behind the numbers.
M6EARLY2.JPG

Note also there were M6s with various suffixes for a variety of other applications.

Can you take good pics for us? Thanks!

....Cotten

[RonH]

Which 'that' carb are you referring to, Ron?

If you mean the Beck M6, it listed by everyone's favorite ebay hero for 1939-1942 Indian Chiefs, but Tom Powell listed it as for '38 and earlier Chiefs with airhorn, which makes a lot more sense.

And here's an M6 without INDIAN, the two-screw intake, and the very early production casting sprue behind the numbers.
M6EARLY2.JPG

Note also there were M6s with various suffixes for a variety of other applications.

Can you take good pics for us? Thanks!

....Cotten

The M6 with Indian over it, mine has the 4 holes for the air cleaner.

[T. Cotten]

The M6 with Indian over it, mine has the 4 holes for the air cleaner.

Three or four line script, Ron?

Any residual nickel, or 'aluminum lacquer'?

L&L reconditioned used carbs by the dozens, and re-stamped many; The INDIAN stamp has been associated with the vendor Beck, but I haven't seen any literature to confirm it. It would be foolish to assume there were any firm rules...

....Cotten
PS: As far as the application of any 'Beck" model, since they were all replacements, none can ever be considered AMCA "correct" for anything!

[39ChiefBonnie]

Hi Cotton,

I believe I may be able to source a NOS throttle shaft here in Australia - will know next week on availability. Otherwise I will make one as suggested. The HS needle does not bottom at the knob although strangely the the bike seems to run too rich unless it is turned out only 5 clicks from the bottom - which is why I thought the seat may be worn? I don't know how to check that. I have the ¼"-40tpi tap and die so I will chase the threads to be sure. There is evidence of previous misalignment although it hasn't blown threw.

I recently purchased a Linkert tool kit with the various special drills. I don't have a reference for the correct drill sizes for cleaning out the passages in a Schebler DLX 130. Some of the drills in the kit may be suitable?

Correction, closer inspection reveals wear in the body at the bottom of throttle shaft disk. dfrb.jpg aergearg.jpg awergae.jpg srth.jpg

[39ChiefBonnie]

erth.jpg srth.jpg srthh.jpg tdyj.jpg

[T. Cotten]

First, Matt,...

Please take that evil drillbit set and hide it from yourself. They are just about the worst thing you can do to a carb that doesn't need it.

Next, the contact of the needlepoint and seat can be inspected with a 'dry-erase' or other felt-tip marker. (I remedied any misalignment by tapping much deeper into the body, and installing an indexable needle guide bushing with a slightly offset bore, cut from PEEK.)

And '40 was a particularly bad year for leadpest.
Helicoils, and re-cutting most gasket surfaces, are prudent.

Yep, that's borewear. Normally its greater at the top, but your '40 'friction' spring is on the bottom!

....Cotten
PS: Your lowspeed lift lever looks a little Linkert; Got a side pic?

LSLEVERS.jpg
(Schebler on left, Linkert in middle, and 1" Linkert on right.)

PPS: I'd LOVE to have a genuine L&L drill kit, Folks!
LINKTULS.jpg
But it would be for reference and display only.

[39ChiefBonnie]

cghmgchm.jpg dtyjtdyj.jpg
Hi Cotton,

You were right the lift lever was a Linkert. Well spotted. I have a Schebler above one and a shaft coming in the mail.

I used the ¼"-40tpi tap and die to chase the threads on the HS and looking at it I think it is seating better. The pressure of the ball and spring on the knob tend to push the bottom of the needle across so it's not in the center of the hole. I did cut the thread a bit deeper into the body.

I managed to swage the spun brass venturi oversize so it fits without any gaps - I'll see how that goes. (ordered a another new one just in case).

Thank you for all your help.

[T. Cotten]

The spring pressure from the detentes, Matt,..

Is exactly why I developed an internal needle guide; Potmetal (ZAMAC) is technically a super-cooled liquid, like window glass, and "moves" over the decades, although bronze Schebler bodies benefit from a guide as well.

(Aligning the lowspeed on 1" models without a lift lever seems impossible, since it cannot be observed.)

Usually, I tended to the borewear before I worried about fitting a venturi (and oversized disc).

....Cotten

[39ChiefBonnie]

Hi Cotton,

Pressure from the friction ball spring pushing on the ball bearing to the HS needle knob.

Do you have a picture of the internal needle guide you developed? Are they available? Thanks

[T. Cotten]

Not a good pic, Matt,..

NDLGUID2.JPG

Its just a quarter inch of quarter-inch PEEK with quarter-forty threads, and slotted for a screwdriver.

The hard part is getting the bore eccentric enough to where it can be aimed when every carb is different. It usually took a few tries, so every one was a custom installation.

I can't cut one "blind", but I can sell you PEEK cores at a quarter a gram!

PEEKCORE.jpg

....Cotten

[39ChiefBonnie]

Very cool!

[T. Cotten]

But wait! There's more!...

After a guide is installed and indexed, damaged seats can be dressed with a simple cutter piloted through a Euro-repop military-style "knob":

SEATCUT3.jpg

(Just ignore the sloppy silver-soldered wing-nut; I was always in a hurry.)

...Cotten

[39ChiefBonnie]

That's a nice bit of kit. I only have a basic knowledge of these carburetors. When I looked at my seat closely by positioning a very small bright light it looked like it comprised an angled almost vertical straight walled hole drilled through to the corresponding horizontal plug hole. I could just see the very tip of the needle if fully screwed in. The needle is tapered. Is the seat a straight through hole or is it meant to be tapered to match he needle? Thanks

[T. Cotten]

Inking is my only clue, Matt,...

DLXPOINT.jpg

The seats may well start out with straight sides, but they don't stay that way!

NDLROLL.jpg

....Cotten