VL Trans rebuild

[Guest]

I see what you mean now. When you said hub I thought you were taking about the drive portion of the clutch on the tapered end of the shaft. You’ll be a good riveter when your done but probably not as pretty as Rosie.

[Grumpa]

I will say this, I noticed on removal that the hub cracked at more than one place. I gotta say I'm not real worried about it primarily because that the OEM original design had short edge distance. There is a reason why you design for a 1.5 times the diameter of the rivet edge distance as a minimum. These cracks aren't going anywhere, they end at the rivet hole. I could re-use this hub, but here's my question; what's the difference between a 2494-19 hub (1919-1929) and a 2494-30 hub (1930-1936) dimensionally?

[Grumpa]

Let me ask my question another way, what's the difference between a JD mainshaft diameter at the clutch and a VL mainshaft? The reason I'm asking is that it looks like someone is making the 2494-19 hub but I haven't seen anyone make the 2494-30. Obviously the parts are different, I just don't know how.

[Grumpa]

Well crap, I re-riveted the hub and still have a gap of .004" which is better but obviously not great. More importantly on assembly there was still an .080" runout at the clutch shell. For yucks I did a quick and dirty check on the shaft and it looks like it has a .006" runout: IMG_2302.jpgIMG_2303.jpg. I'll take the hub and shell apart again (practice makes perfect) but if the shaft is off that isn't going to fix it. Pretty sure it would function like this but dang I don't like it. Any advice from the elders here would be much appreciated.

[Grumpa]

So two separate problems; the mainshaft is one issue and the hub is another. I did a better set up to check the mainshaft and confirmed a .006" runout IMG_2304.jpgIMG_2305.jpg. I have a repair plan for the hub and I can obviously R&R the mainshaft again if I have to. Is .006" runout too much?

[Grumpa]

Well I found at least part of my problem; even with set-up hardware drawn up tight I still have a .002" gap IMG_2310.jpg which means the ID of the shell has a smaller radius than the hub, easy fix. But when I riveted it before that gap allowed the rivet shank to expand it even further like the proverbial salesman getting his foot in the door. That makes me feel a bit better.

Also now that this assembly has been riveted at least three times that I know of (once by the factory and twice by yours truly) the holes are oversized. I'm trimming down some ACRES Sleeves IMG_2308.jpg to 5/16" to help with that IMG_2309.jpg and make a repair bushing that should also help keep the shank where it should be. The rivets are 0319s brazier heads cut down to 5/8".

[Grumpa]

I indexed the hub 180 degrees from the previous installation just in case the hub bore wasn't perpendicular to the flange and then re-riveted with the above described repair IMG_2311.jpg no gaps at any of the rivets now. Reinstalled on the shaft and run out is now down to +/- .028" (.056" total runout) and it's at the same place relative to the shaft as before IMG_2316.jpg so that pretty much eliminates everything but the mainshaft which was out .006". Anyone have a straight mainshaft available?

[Guest]

I think you should run it as is Grumpa.

[Grumpa]

I think you should run it as is Grumpa.

Yeah, believe me I thought long and hard about just letting it go. In the end though it's not like I need it in the bike tomorrow morning to get to work so I opted to check it out. I tore it back down. Tranny blood, guts and oil everywhere mainshaft out last night. Checked it out today between centers and found the shaft to be straight (at the most out a half thou). The variables are the case (not likely) the large bearing, the main drive gear, and the internal main drive gear bushing. I did note on assembly that there was a clearance fit between the gear and the bearing and consequently I mounted the gear with red Loc tight. That might be the where the offset happened. So I checked the main drive gear IMG_2321.jpgIMG_2320.jpg and found that was where the .006" runout came from.

My plan is to replace the bearing (to eliminate that variable) and re-center the gear in it with Loc tight in the case vertically instead of horizontally and then re-assemble. If it's still way off after that I'll take a closer look at the clutch hub/shell. Opinions are most welcome at this point.

[Robert Luland]

Anyone have a straight mainshaft available?

https://www.thegoodoldmotorcyclepart...Mainshaft-1196

[Peter Cooke]

I did note on assembly that there was a clearance fit between the gear and the bearing and consequently I mounted the gear with red Loc tight. That might be the where the offset happened.

I not sure you should have a clearance fit between the main drive gear and the large bearing. I measured my main drive gear and got 1.575" OD and the ID of my (6208-2RS) bearing is 1.574". That would seem about right for a very light interference fit.

[Grumpa]

Anyone have a straight mainshaft available?

https://www.thegoodoldmotorcyclepart...Mainshaft-1196

Like I was saying in post #69 the mainshaft I bought checked out to be straight. The keyways leave something to be desired (post #46) but all things considered a great product and I recommend you as a provider. The problem seems to be in how I installed the 208PP sealed bearing, I'm guessing it was cocked slightly. Removed and am installing a different one to eliminate that variable. At this point I'm considering changing from heating the case to freezing the bearing.

[Grumpa]

I not sure you should have a clearance fit between the main drive gear and the large bearing. I measured my main drive gear and got 1.575" OD and the ID of my (6208-2RS) bearing is 1.574". That would seem about right for a very light interference fit.

I agree, my memory failed me I believe and that's my only excuse. It wasn't a clearance fit at all it was a very light interference fit as you describe. In hindsight I was probably just being OCD on not wanting the main drive gear to spin inside of the bearing. More likely the bearing was cocked slightly.

[Grumpa]

Update, I tore it back down and replaced both bearings. I added the brass seals per Steve's suggestion (post #52). Assembled with new bearings IMG_2323.jpg and checked IMG_2324.jpg and it's a bit better, only +/- .002 now. Knowing the shaft is good (within .0005") I moved the slider gear off the main. Checked again and the shaft was straight. So I have a good idea where the issue is. Pass me that hammer

[Grumpa]

Pretty sure the problem was that I reamed/honed the main drive gear bushing incorrectly. While I wait for a new main gear bushing to arrive I checked the (verified straight) mainshaft and the runout of the clutch shell and came out with +/- .010: IMG_2340.jpg Just the shaft and shell relation at this point but here's a visual of it with a height gauge: High point IMG_2341.jpg low point IMG_2343.jpg chain area high point IMG_2344.jpg and low point IMG_2345.jpg I can live with it so far.