VL Trans rebuild

[Grumpa]

Latest snag is that an aftermarket mainshaft didn't have the starter clutch key ways cut correctly IMG_2240.jpgIMG_2241.jpg. Modifying the OEM keys but now considering pulling the shaft and cutting the shaft.

[Robert Luland]

The Eastern shafts are a tight fit on the key. I've dealt with this in the past. If your set up for grinding then go for it. I found it was a hell of a lot easier to deal with the key.
Bob L

[Guest]

Grumpy can you post the sealed bearing numbers that you used on the main shaft? And did you use a spacer inboard of the right side sealed bearing or not? I seen some discussion about this spacer being needed to maintain correct end play on the main shaft. What did you do? I am in the middle of a trans rebuild also and would like to use the sealed bearings also. Your thread is a great help. Thanks

[Steve Slocombe]

I've also had problems with the early Eastern gearbox mainshafts, which had incorrect angle tapers at both ends. The sealed bearing numbers are on the vlheaven.com Website.

[Grumpa]

Grumpy can you post the sealed bearing numbers that you used on the main shaft? And did you use a spacer inboard of the right side sealed bearing or not? I seen some discussion about this spacer being needed to maintain correct end play on the main shaft. What did you do? I am in the middle of a trans rebuild also and would like to use the sealed bearings also. Your thread is a great help. Thanks

De nada Dusty and maybe you're helping me avoid more dumb stuff as I've not heard of adding a spacer to the r/h/s inboard. As a matter of fact I left out both the large and small brass oil retainers as well because I didn't see the need. IMG_2242.jpg

Going back and measuring I found a difference between old and the new with the new sealed bearing being .006" longer on the left hand. On the right side the difference was .0055" with the new sealed bearing being shorter, so it seems like a wash to me. IMG_2245.jpg But I shall defer to the wisdom of those smarter than I.

[Guest]

I see what you mean Grumpa, that’s not much difference. I think I’ll do the same as you unless someone comes up with a reason not to. Thanks for the bearing numbers and thanks to Steve also. Keep up the good work.

[Steve Slocombe]

There are numerous manufacturers of sealed bearings and they seem to come in different qualities. The red seals seem softer than the black ones, and we have recently had a red sealed one at the drive end slowly passing oil through the bearing. I would now tend to use good quality sealed bearings and leave in the old brass seals on the principle that they can't hurt and might do some good. With two sealed bearings you don't get end play in the mainshaft, and I screw in the ball bearing holder until the mainshaft locks up, and then back it out half a turn and check the assembly turns freely. The downside from slightly different bearing dimensions is that your original 2500-19 thrust washer under the clutch bearings may need replacing. Harley made them in 0.006" thickness increments so must have thought it was important. Too thin and the clutch can wobble, but too thick and the clutch drum binds and the clutch drags.

[Guest]

Good info, thanks

[Grumpa]

The one thing this forum lacks is a "like" button. Thank you Steve for all your contribution to keeping VLs alive. I timed the starter today IMG_2254.jpg

[Grumpa]

Later transmissions like my '69 FLH have the sprocket locknut torqued down to 140-150'#s, so is that the target for the VL? IMG_2268.jpg

[Guest]

That seems awfully high to me. I would think 75 foot pounds would be plenty.

[Steve Slocombe]

Wow Grumpa, that is tight. There are no surviving torque specs for the VL, and maybe none were ever issued. Crank pin nuts had to be done up 'very tight' but a lot seems to have been left to the experience of the mechanic. On the VL left hand sprocket lock nut, I clamp the sprocket in the vice, do up the nut tightly with a big adjustable wrench, finish off with a hammer and punch, then turn over a lock tab. No idea what this would be on a torque wrench, but so far so good after 74 transmissions.

[Grumpa]

75'# it is IMG_2275.jpg Sadly when I put on the clutch I found a .080" runout that I didn't spot earlier. IMG_2288.jpg almost certainly because I didn't have the hub drawn up tight when I was riveting it on. The only other possibility would be a bent mainshaft which isn't likely because it's new. All I can say is I am very thankful for Mark Masa's clutch removal tool IMG_2289.jpg

[Guest]

It looks like you have the dial indicator on the clutch shell Grumpa. That shouldn’t be effected by the hub.

[Grumpa]

It looks like you have the dial indicator on the clutch shell Grumpa. That shouldn’t be effected by the hub.

I checked the clutch shell on a surface plate IMG_2291.jpg and couldn't get a .001" feeler gauge under it, but I got a .008" gauge between the hub and the shell IMG_2290.jpg so I'm fairly confident that's the problem. Granted the mainshaft could be bent and I failed to check it prior to installation; possible but not probable. So hub removal reveals rivet material that spread out between the surfacesIMG_2292.jpg. I knew to have the pieces drawn up tight together but I failed to do it, and THEN I didn't check for a gap. Bottom line is I messed up, don't let this happen to you dear fellow AMCA member who reads this thread.