VL Trans rebuild

[Grumpa]

The bushing was shortened to allow the main shaft seal on 1965 and later main drive gears. You could have ground that area and gotten the best of both worlds.

So in thinking through this, the difference is that from 65 on the primary was "sealed" more or less and had a splash system to lubricate the clutch hub. Don't the VL clutch hub bearings depend on the lubrication from the mainshaft?

[Robert Luland]

That seal puts you beyond the bearing area. It is pressed into the end of the main drive gear and is there just to seal where the shaft passes though it.

[Grumpa]

That seal puts you beyond the bearing area. It is pressed into the end of the main drive gear and is there just to seal where the shaft passes though it.

Right, what I meant was that I was wondering if HD intended that some oil would make it past the clutch hub bearing thrust washer and lubricate the clutch hub bearings. After coming to my senses I realized that IF that was their intent, it sure wouldn't be a very efficient way of doing it. In any case I have modified the gear IMG_2176.jpg for the seal IMG_2177.jpg

[Grumpa]

I found a hub race that hasn't been trashed by earlier mechanics IMG_2175.jpg I was hoping the 2495-30 rivets were 1/4" diameter but alas no...17/64". In case anyone finds themselves in the same position and has the idea that they might be able to swell a 1/4" steel rivet and make it work, I recommend just finding (or making) the 2495-30 rivets and doing the job right.

[Robert Luland]

Where do you come up with this stuff. The rivet is .250. I rivet these things all week long for folks.

[Grumpa]

Where do you come up with this stuff. The rivet is .250. I rivet these things all week long for folks.

I was wrong.

My reasoning was based on the following (1) I had three hubs where all the holes measured between 17/64 up to .274 IMG_2178.jpg and (2) Harley gave a 2495-30 part number to the rivet which I figured meant something other than a simple flush head rivet. Why in the hell would they give a common rivet a special part number???? The only people lazier than mechanics are engineers and they don't usually develop a part number (which requires some kind of documentation) unless there's a significant change in fit, form or function.


But yes, it turns out that it's just a common 1/4" flush rivet as far as I can tell unless my supplier has mislead me.

[Steve Slocombe]

I think that rivet is a non-standard length, like the front brake drum rivets, so it got its own part number. 0319 rivets, as used on the 1934-36 seat tee, are close enough for me.

[Grumpa]

Hub successfully installed:IMG_2179.jpgIMG_2181.jpgIMG_2180.jpg Those rivets are a bitch kitty to install, I see why the hole oversized now.

[Grumpa]

Okay so the finish on my bottom studs was worn off so I made this my first experiment at Parkerizing IMG_2186.jpg I cooked them at the recommended temp 190-210 F for 45 minutes IMG_2187.jpgIMG_2188.jpg and installed IMG_2189.jpg. I would have hoped they would have been darker after 45 minutes. The ratio I used was about 1:8 ounces.

[Robert Luland]

Hub successfully installed:[ATTACH=CONFIG]22848[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22849[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22850[/ATTACH] Those rivets are a bitch kitty to install, I see why the hole oversized now.

We you a flat head rivet 1" long. You should have a lot more meat on the out side were you peined it over. You got lucky. We found that the heat treating on those races is all over the place. Most install ok but we have had quit a few that have cracked the moment we started to drop rivet.

[Robert Luland]

45 minutes? When the fizzing stops, the operation is over. Usually 5 to 8 minutes.

[Grumpa]

45 minutes? When the fizzing stops, the operation is over. Usually 5 to 8 minutes.

Yeah I wasn't happy with the results and suspected there was something wrong with my process. The instructions were 14 ounces acid to 1 gallon water. So today I went with just straight acid IMG_2190.jpg at 190 degrees + for 5 minutes with much better results IMG_2191.jpg

[Grumpa]

Yea! Parts back from cadmium plating IMG_2207.jpg Hat's off to Retrocycle.

[Grumpa]

So prior to the re-build I made a weld fixture: IMG_2210.jpgIMG_2211.jpgIMG_2211.jpgIMG_2212.jpgIMG_2213.jpgIMG_2214.jpg

[Grumpa]

So I've shot myself in the foot here. Installed the studs IAW the suggested stud heights with red Loctite. The top long studs @ 11/16" were too short IMG_2224.jpg and destroyed one of them adjusting to 7/8"IMG_2229.jpg. The side studs installed @ 1/2" IMG_2225.jpg adjusted to .6" IMG_2230.jpg. I should have checked before installing with Loctite for crying out loud.