Dads Sport Scout

[FLFD7]

JR

That’s some great info there. I usually go by the 4 diagrams in the riders manual and use a continuity tester to make sure which terminals are on or off.

Looking at the drawings above it seems to me that the 841012 is a police switch cause the picture looks like a knob instead of a key slot. I know my father has one of those police switches in his stash, I gotta remember to see if the mounting plate is stamped.

I’m gonna print your pages out for future reference, thanks for posting that.

Joe

[FLFD7]

A quick one tonight I cleaned up the rear fender stays and rear bumper.

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I sorted out the hardware holding the rear fender on, I’m using new, what came off the bike was a mixture of fine and coarse threads, hex nuts and square nuts, just a mess. With the fender mounted I test fit the rear fender stays and rear bumper.

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I’m satisfied with that, will take them off and give them a coat of black paint.

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[FLFD7]

Painted the fender stays so while they’re drying I’ll run some handlebar wiring. First up the horn button

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First I run a thin stiff wire through the bars. Then wrap the horn wire around that and secure with masking tape. Then it’s a simple matter to pull the stiff wire back out.

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Make sure the Bakelite plug sits squarely in the hole (forgot to take a picture), then button on and we good

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Next up the headlight wires….

[FLFD7]

Repeat the process on the switch side. I made the new switch wires extra long so I’d have plenty of slack so I could pull them through one at a time. I’ve pulled all three wires at once, but it’s a pain, one at a time is the way to go.

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I tried to keep the wires running parallel based on where they come out of the bottom of the switch so they don’t get twisted up. I think that’ll help when I run the outer control cable through. Once they look taught enough I screwed the switch on with some new screws.

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I left the headlight wires and the horn wire way long cause I want to see how I’m going to run them to their ends, then I’ll cut them and put the proper terminals on.

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Next up running the outer control cables.

[tomfiii]

Horn wire should come out on left side and feed to headlight switch should come out on right side. Feed to horn should loop thru bars with fender light wire.

[FLFD7]

Tom, thanks for that info but I’m gonna stick with this. I’m curious where you came up with that wiring pattern? I say that because as far as the holes on the bottom of the handlebar on the left side (light switch side) the hole is much larger then the hole on the right side (horn button side). I would think it’s bigger to accommodate three wires passing through as opposed to the single horn ground wire.

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Feeding the three wires through a smaller hole doesn’t make sense to me. If you look at the wiring diagram in the military manual for the 640B

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I know it’s just a sketch but you can infer that the wires don’t cross over each other along the center line of the bike, which they would if they crossed inside the handlebar.

The way I have the wires running is exactly the same as I did on my 1939 Scout.

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This is the left side, I have the three wires exiting the large hole, the power wire going back under the dash to the switch, the high and low beam wires going forward (inside the black wire cover) to the headlight. I know this pattern works, so I’ll leave it.

[tomfiii]

Scout wiring diagram.jpg The wires from dash go thru rubber tube to right side of bars and everything that feeds the front end goes thru rubber tube on left side with tube forming a "U" or "S" depending how wires attach to backing plate , see https://www.ziggysmotorworks.com//bi...os/641civ.html be aware blue bike has clamp on lower tree in wrong place as it should be bolted to backing plate, it was placed there in error.

[FLFD7]

Tom,
Interesting pictures, I never saw the rubber wire covering like that. But, since I have no interest in judging, I’m gonna leave as is, like I said I wired my 39 Scout like this and it’s fine. I mean we’re only talking about 3 wires from the forks/handlebar to the dash, headlight power, fender light power and horn power. Horn ground from horn to handlebar.

Thanks for the info and link.

[FLFD7]

Taking care of some odds and ends I made up a battery for the bike

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Then I put the outer control cables back in the handlebars and threw it on the bike

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Now for more fiddling with the wiring

[FLFD7]

More fooling with the wiring. Here is the rear junction block on the bike as it was last ridden

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No cover, and the fuse was not even being used. No wonder, the fuse holder just had little short screws, so no wires could be attached, and instead of a bracket there was just a long threaded rod holding it in place. I got a repop bracket and cover from Greer, and put some longer screws through the Bakelite so I can wire it up from the bottom.

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The other fuse is just a spare.

[FLFD7]

Cleaned up the brake light switch and mounted it, there is a bunch of weld on the bracket so it must have broken off at some point in time, the switch just fits with some effort. Then I ran the wires for the brake light.

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The junction block back here is really for the rear light and brake light. The bracket, when I mounted it to the seat spring bracket site flush on the back frame, but I can’t see how I can run wires there, the screw to attach the wires was actually touching the frame, so I put a big spacer under the bracket, and a smaller spacer under the Bakelite to give me clearance. Here is where it stands for now

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On the right side I got power from the battery to the fuse. On this side of the fuse I will run power to the ammeter. On the other side of the fuse is the power to the brake light switch. That wire has to run across the bottom of the block, which is why I wanted to lift it up.

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On the left side you can see the wire coming from under the block to the brake light switch, and the return wire going to the front screw, and the darker yellow wire is the brake light. The other wire on the back screw is the tail light, I need to run a wire from there to the ignition switch. So I’ll need three wires, one from the battery side of the fuse to the ammeter, one from the ignition switch to the rear light, and one from the ignition switch to the coil.

[FLFD7]

I temporarily mounted half a tank and installed the speedo cable to see where I can run my wires.

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They really don’t give you much room between the tank and frame and speedo, fortunately it’s only 3 wires…

[tomfiii]

Place washer under battery frog screw nut to prevent damage to grd. wire when readjusting frog. Indian never had a decent picture of where grd. wire terminated so a lot of people used battery hold down nut.

[FLFD7]

Tom,
Yeah, I am using the frog hold down screw for ground, but instead of a washer I’m going to use a cable guide like I used on the right side

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There will be three wires thru there, the power to the ammeter which is just laying in there now, the switch to coil wire and the switch to tail light wire. In the picture above you can see I put a fuse to the front of the bike back here rather then cramming it in up front under the dash. I used the unused 5/16-24 threaded hole at the rear of the frame and a rubber covered cable guide to hold the fuse holder.
Anybody know what that threaded hole at the very back of the front frame section was meant for? I’ve never seen it used.

[tomfiii]

I rewired mine so battery went to fuse block and fuse thee fed everything and no extra fuse.