Dads Sport Scout

[FLFD7]

Rear shocks, time to break out the spring compressor

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And back in the frame they go

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Don’t forget the little set screws to hold up the top cover.

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[FLFD7]

Good progress, time to go watch some football….

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[FLFD7]

When I started this project I had to gather some parts that weren’t on the bike, one of which was the horn. I happened to have a nice original 1941-1945 face horn, so I thought I was good. But then I found some pictures of my father with his bike in 1969 and saw that he had the Indian face horn on the bike as seen below.

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I don’t have an original Indian face horn cover (he has several but I can’t get them from him), but I do have an original horn with a repop face on my 1940 Chief, so I decided to “borrow “ that one since the Chief not running now anyway (another project now).

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The horn has a repop cover on the back, and it never did fit right against the horn face, so I had to egg out the holes with a file to get it to fit nice. Another thing I discovered

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is that the original style rubber spacer with metal cap wouldn’t fit under the back cover, too thick. Through trial and error I found I could use some flat washers and rubber grommets to get the correct spacing and allow the horn to vibrate. I put some temporary wires on to figure out how long the real wires will be, hence the crimped on wire ends, the real wires will be soldered on. Snugged the back cover on and mounted it to the forks.

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Might as well see how the headlight looks while I’m at it.

[FLFD7]

Again lucky I had the correct headlight for this bike since it was missing, I just stuck it on there to check out clearance and that, I got to redo the wires but it looks good for now.

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[FLFD7]

The headlight socket wiring looked a bit sketchy

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So I cut off the crispy parts and soldered on some new wire, and threw in a new grommet while I was at it.

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Looking a lot better

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[FLFD7]

So for the headlight high and low beam and the horn ground wires come from the handlebar, so I got to start working on that

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The existing wires are a bit sketchy, so I want to replace them. I’ve done several handlebars and getting the outer cables and the wires fed thru are always a bit of a challenge to say the least. This is the first time I’ve looked at these bars since I took them off the bike. I was rolling the grips back and forth and couldn’t quite grasp what I was seeing. Rolling on the throttle in the normal way caused the cable to extend out. Hmmm. My father had this bike set up with left hand shift, right hand throttle. But the action on the grip was wrong, to open the throttle you’d have to roll the grip away from you. How the heck did he ride this thing? Obviously he had a control with the wrong direction spiral. So I took the sleeve off and saw the control had a right hand (clockwise) spiral, so did the spark advance grip. Which makes sense for a left hand throttle bike, but he switched sides and didn’t have the correct part. That must have been some confusing ride. So now I needed a control with a left hand (counterclockwise) spiral. I had some sets of grips and was in luck, a pair with left and right hand spiral.

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Unfortunately the grips on these are green, doesn’t really match the bike. And I didn’t really want to wrestle to get the old grips off so I could swap controls. I had a couple pair of pretty rusty controls in another box, and as luck would have it both sets have left and right hand spirals.

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So I’ll clean them up and put on new grips. I have a new set of grips that I’ll probably use, but I like the look of the black Beck grips that were on the bike, might have to bite the bullet and buy a repop set.

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[tomfiii]

With those handle bar routing leave wires really extra long and terminate afterwards. The Loop on left can be shaped as a "U" or an "S". Feed from dash is on right.

[FLFD7]

Tom

Yeah, I’m going to make up new wires and put the terminal ends on after they thru the bars. Only wire from the bars to the dash is headlight power, that’ll get a small ring terminal, hi and lo beam wires from the bars to the headlight will get bullet terminals to mate with the wires from the light behind the fork shield. Horn wire from the bars is a ground direct to horn so that’ll get a ring terminal.

I’ve run wires thru bars before, masking tape and a little grease is your friend. I run a thin stiff wire from the exit hole to the switch hole and wrap it with the wires with masking tape. A little grease to help it along and I pull the stiff wire and the copper wires back out the hole. Messy, but it works.

Going on a little vacation for a week, so I’ll get to this when I get back.

[FLFD7]

Just a quick one more handlebar stuff, didn’t like the horn wire that was on the bike, not cloth covered and had a butt connector

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So I made a new one. I cut the old wire out of the Bakelite plug and reused it

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Put a nice blob of solder on the end

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A bit of filing and good to go

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[FLFD7]

Before I painted the handlebar I took a dremel to where the wires would enter and exit. I’ve run wires in bars before and never liked how they scrape on the openings.

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I didn’t like the headlight wire setup as is with the vinyl wire and the butt connectors, so I soldered some cloth covered wire on and covered the splice with shrink tubing, I made the wires nice and long.

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before and after…

[FLFD7]

I’m going to ditch all the wiring that was on the bike

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Nice to get rid of that rats nest.

i was checking out the ignition switch that was on the bike that I’ll have to get rekeyed. The mounting bracket is stamped for a 841002 switch, which is a replacement magneto switch

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but looking at the terminals on the switch that’s not right, according to the riders manual this is a 841010 which is a universal replacement switch based on the placement of the terminals.

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I have a universal replacement switch that I have keys for, I just may use it. According to the riders manual there needs to be a jumper between terminal 8 and 3, so I made one nice and tucked away.

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[FLFD7]

To wrap up this weekend I started rest fitting the rear fender

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Starting to look like a motorcycle now…

[JTR249]

Is that the same switch as the part number for a vertical? Looks to be so. The one you first show in the photos.
-JR Indian Vertical Briggs & Stratton Ignition Switch 1841002.jpeg

[FLFD7]

JR,
It certainly could be, I guess the 841002 and the 1841002 are different switches?

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I have a bunch of other switches, none of them are stamped on the bottom. I do have some loose parts, and one of the mounting plates is stamped…..

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A different number 841012. That switch is not shown in the riders handbook, and the stamp is weird looks like the 1 is stamped over a 0?

It’s a mystery….

[JTR249]

Ignition 3.jpgIgnition 4.jpgIgnition 1.jpgIgnition 2.jpg Well, you know how it is when you have files. You know you have notes or a document that will help someone and you just can't seem to remember where you placed the darned thing.
This evening I found the ignition sheets given to me by Jon Whittington, AMCA member and ignition restoration specialist (my term). Anyone with the skills to restore one of these is an expert. I broke my first one down just to see, you know, see for myself what type of parts held it together. I really wanted to find that all-elusive number on the side of the roller cage--to no avail--nothing there. So I sent my first one to the good state of Illinois to be reborn. Jon had my ignition switch back in about two weeks, clean and smooth as a ribbon. A really genuine and helpful person to speak with about these parts.
I would like to post the pages he sent me because I don't know if you have seen these diagrams. They might help you a little, though the 17 pages in your build look you have things well in hand.
Anyway, I found the number you referenced above in the list on page 3 of these notes. Turns out, there were about 8 different switches that Indian used on their motorcycles made by Briggs & Stratton.
Good luck and thank you for posting the photos.
-JR