Dads Sport Scout

[FLFD7]

Hey Eric,
Well the cylinders have 4 spots where someone put too long a head bolt in and displaced them, but they seem solid and I wasn’t going to mess with them.

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Fingers crossed they’ll be ok.

[FLFD7]

Well, got a couple tasks to complete before I get those cylinders on. The shift rod needed a good cleaning:

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It needs to go on before the rear cylinder. After that cylinder is on it’s just in the way of getting any tools to bend over a cotter pin.

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You can see in the picture there is no room in there at all, so much worse when the cylinder in the way.

[FLFD7]

Along with the cylinders the intake manifold needs to go on, gotta fix that up too. 0731FA4A-71AD-44A3-8770-65D2193B7FA1.jpeg

I got a lot of the carbon out of it with some lacquer thinner and a fine 3M pad, then played with the dremel tool and got the inside nice and shiny.

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The manifold nuts pretty chewed up, was going to file the burrs off and paint them, but in my stash I found two NOS nuts I got from Jules.

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No brainer to use them. Now it’s all set to go.

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[FLFD7]

Before moving forward I had to take a couple steps back. I was looking through my pictures on my phone of the engine work and something caught my eye, something wrong that I somehow overlooked. I had to take the oil pump and timing cover off because of this...

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There is a gap between the lifter and the bottom of the pushrod on the rear exhaust. I measured about .040 with some feeler gages. This can’t be right. Now these are the parts that came out of the engine, I didn’t change a thing, so that is how my father rode it. I’m not happy with this. That can’t be right that the lifter would go up .040 and smack the bottom of the pushrod. So what to do. I decided the easiest course of action would be to use standard scout cams and exhaust lifters (the Bonneville exhaust lifters are shorter then stock). So that’s what I did.

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Now that looks right to me. Button everything back up again and keep going.

[FLFD7]

I got sidetracked this past Labor Day weekend with a little project. I hadn’t run my 1940 Four in well over a year, the last time I tried starting it I determined it wasn’t getting fuel, so I figured a little TLC on the carb and we should be back in business.

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The Four is a pain cause you gotta take the tanks off to get the carb off, there is a little nut buried in the intake manifold that you just can’t reach.

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It was getting dark on Sunday but I had to finish, and sure enough it started second kick...so happy...

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That made my weekend.

[FLFD7]

Well other interests and obligations have sidetracked me a little from this project but time to get it going again. I've been enjoying my 1940 Four the last couple of weekends so who can blame me.

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I did manage to get to the carb, which was unbelievably dirty

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I can't fathom where all that dirt came from. Oh well time for a good cleaning.

[FLFD7]

There is next to no original finish on the carb body, a little between some of the lettering and in some of the corners, so I'll leave it as is. It has the standard Sport Scout 15/16" venturi, and since I took out the Bonneville cams and lifters I'm gonna leave it that way. Took it apart and washed it out with lacquer thinner, ran wires through all the holes and everything looks pretty good. I can see a very little light around the throttle disk so I ordered a new one from Greers but that one didn't even fit so I'm sticking with the original.

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Next step getting the cylinders on.

[FLFD7]

Had my brother come over and give me a hand getting the cylinders on. Went smoothly.

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They are not tightened down yet, have to fit the intake manifold and carb with the support and the valve covers, make sure everything lines up properly. That's the goal for this week.

[exeric]

Thanks for the Sport Scout update. Your '40 Four is gorgeous. I had a '40 Chief (same Indian Red) and I think 1940 was one of Indian's best years.

[FLFD7]

I agree Eric, I have a 40 Chief and the 40 Four and they look just right, the skirted fender bikes with the leaf spring forks look great.

I decided to do a bubble test on the manifold but had to make something up, time for a McMaster Carr delivery.

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Some hacksaw work, a little filing, drilling and then tap one hole and it should do.

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[FLFD7]

Out to the garage for the tire pump and give it a go

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No extra bubbles in the suds so it looks good. Mount the carb now.

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OK, adjust the valves next then I’ll tackle the distributor.

[T. Cotten]

That's not a Schrader valve on your testplate, is it, Joseph?

....Cotten

[FLFD7]

Cotten,
Yes. It is a Schafer valve.

[T. Cotten]

Cotten,
Yes. It is a Schafer valve.

Then you are not applying a constant pressure differential, Joseph!

This leads to 'false negatives', as it takes a minute for the tiniest fissures to show themselves as blisters of foam.

Just pull the valve core out of the Schrader, and hook a light vinyl hose to it, so you can adjust your regulator (no more than 15psi) to accommodate the leakage past valve guides, etc.

.....Cotten
PS: Sorry for the late edit, but is the top of that HD fuel filter tapped 7/16"-27?

[FLFD7]

I don’t have a compressor, just a tire pump. Got it up over 20psi with 3 pumps, no bubbles. I think it’s good.