Dads Sport Scout

[FLFD7]

Exeric,

Your private message box is full, tried sending you one. I might be vending at Wauseon. Let me know what you need for your Sport Scout project, I don't have much but I might have something you need.

Joe

[FLFD7]

I did take the opportunity to take the Chief for a ride yesterday, hope everyone had a good 4th (and 5th).

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Happy Birthday...murica....

[FLFD7]

Well it's been an adventure but I'm able to post photos again, seems the image size was causing problems. Anyway, a quickie of the oil pump going back on:

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OK, next up the cylinders....

[exeric]

Thanks for the offer, Joe. Off - hand, the only thing I'm concerned about finding is a SS front brake backing plate. I've tried sending you a P.M. but I guess I have clean up to do in my mailbox. I have attached a picture of what I (really enjoyed) mocking up.

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[FLFD7]

Eric,
That is indeed a project. Looks like the cylinders were off a racer, with the fins cut away to fit a magneto in the oil pump? Think I might have a backing plate but not 100% sure, but I’ll look.
Joe

[exeric]

I was wondering about all that clearance in the cylinders. I know the cylinders were found separate, and later from the bottom end so you're probably right. My plan is a nice, easy starting battery ignition SS so those cylinders will provide some weight reduction Thanks for looking for a backing plate, but regardless, I appreciate the thought, and I can't begin to thank you for the effort, and detail you have put into your SS build thread, Joe.

[FLFD7]

Well, long story short I’ve been spending a lot of time getting stuff ready for Wauseon but after much pondering I decided I’m not going and canceled my hotel reservation today, a combination of vehicle issues and I’m not too sure about the weather forecast I won’t make that 600 mile each way trip. Oh well, back to the Scout. Fiddled with my broken valve spring compressor and got it to work, noticed a few things.

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The previous owner was running double valve springs. My late friend Jules built and raced big base Scouts back in the 50’s and he was not a fan of the double springs, he told me never use them. So I’m taking his advice. Also I had one stuck valve, but a little heat and some PB blaster, and a couple smacks with a hammer and she be out.

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The front exhaust valve was stuck open, and I guess sitting for 50 years in a shed some moisture got in. A little wire brush and the rust is gone, hopefully I can get a nice surface with the lapping compound. I don’t have the capability to clean the seat up by grinding, hopefully the valve lapping will be sufficient.

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Just a quick shot of the old valve and double spring setup, and the new valve and spring I’ll be using.

Now I gotta make a little fixture to hold the cylinder while I lap it.

[FLFD7]

Starting to lap the valves in, made a high tech fixture to hold the cylinder in place

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Hey, it works. And a before shot of the valve seats

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I tried the suction cup on a stick to rotate the valves but didn’t have much luck either the suction cup didn’t suction or the rubber part rotated on its handle, either way it was a pain. Came up with a better way, shown below

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now that’s better...

[FLFD7]

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coming along, slow but sure.

[FLFD7]

Finished honing the valves in the front cylinder, the exhaust valve seat still showed some little imperfections

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But I think it’ll be alright. The intake seat came out fine

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I’m gonna do some more cleaning on the fins. You can still see the original nickel plating in spots, but it’s worn off and rusty in others. Not going to nickel plate, so I think some high temp black will look fine on them. I used barbecue grill black on my 42 Scout cylinders and after 6 years they still look great, these will too.

[FLFD7]

I decided to paint the cylinders. The original finish was nickel plating, and while there was still some nickel on them there were also spots where it was worn away and had some rust. So high temp black it is. I had some barbecue grill paint, but it was too flat, I saw that Rustoleum had a semi gloss high temp but at the Home Depot the can said just black for the color, but the front of the can said a semi gloss finish. Plus it’s good to 1200 degrees. Sold.

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OK, more gloss then semi gloss but too late now, and it doesn’t look bad. Before installing the valves I wanted to give the gasket surface a little sandpaper treatment, I have a lapping plate that I think is pretty flat so I taped some medium and then some fine paper to and spun the cylinder around on it (yeah, should have done this before painting) just to be sure there were no high spots. It shined up some areas around the bolt holes, I think it’s pretty flat. I’ll do the same for the heads.

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Now ready for the valves.

[FLFD7]

From my late friend Jules I got this broken but usable valve compressor. On my previous 2 scouts I used a tool my father made to mimic the one shown in the repair manual, a lever with a notch on the end that pushes down on the end cap so the keepers can be inserted and a treaded rod to go thru your work surface and act as a pivot point. The problem with that tool is you are basically working one handed because you need to keep the pressure on the end cap and springs. I recently helped my friend Pete with his scout racer and he had a tube with a notch in it that I had to push down on the end cap while he put in the retainers. The job got done but it was a real bear to do. So I wonder how this tool will work. Well, in a word, great! So simple. If I rushed it I could probably do each valve in a minute and a half with this tool. Now I regret not bringing it by Pete’s...

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I didn’t even have to use the lever to clamp the spring open, I lined up the cup over the end cap and the threaded end of the tool over the center of the valve and turn the adjusting screw down to compress the spring. Once tension was on the tool I didn’t need to hold it, and I could make fine adjustments with the screw so the retainers went right in the notch, and then release the pressure slowly with the screw to make sure everything lined up right. Fantastic.

The top valve covers are installed under the spring, there was a lot of rust damage on them but I just spun the rusty side facing the cylinder so you won’t notice it.

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I’m good with it.

[FLFD7]

Next up is the rear cylinder

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A little side by side before and after of the front and rear cylinders.

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Now that I’ve done one the next should be easier, right. I hope so.

[FLFD7]

I hit a bit of a snag with the rear cylinder. Got the valves out no problem, but the seats look a bit worse then the front cylinder.

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I also noticed that the intake valve guide was loose, I could spin it by hand......hmmm.....so it had to come out. That did not go well, while punching it out the guide broke and I might have uttered quite a few bad words. Fortunately, in a bunch of parts I got from my late friend Jules there were some guides I figure will work.

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You can see the broken guide on the bottom above. But wait, it gets better. Going to clean up the bunch of carbon built up in the intake port I was rudely surprised to find this B1943F95-B518-4765-98D4-C283152837E7.jpeg3850F1D9-0E37-4173-985A-22FE81D68011.jpegB8C739FC-1843-4E8C-BBC6-DC0C94124FE5.jpeg

The cylinder casting was cracked where the valve guid comes through. I didn’t see that originally because of all the carbon build up. I don’t think I cracked it when I punched out the guide, and on the broken piece there looks to be carbon on the cracked side. This might explain why the guide was loose in the first place. Talking it over with my friend Pete I’ve decided to clean up the cylinder and then “knurl” the cylinder hole using a center punch so the new guide has a tighter fit, and use red loctite. I know I can probably get oversized guides, but this is the way I’m going to go.

[PaulCDF]

I am wonder how you got the old guides out?
And the new guides in?

Punched out with a brass drift?
Pressed or driven in?