My 101 Scout Cannonball Build

[pisten-bully]

This build would go a lot faster if I didn’t have to work so much to pay for it all.

WTR : 57

Hahaha! I hear you!

[d_lasher]

This build would go a lot faster if I didn’t have to work so much to pay for it all.

WTR : 57

[d_lasher]

First mock up
DC399BB7-8EAE-457A-9C03-29214662F5CC.jpg

Found some issues.
I’m a 1/4” from coil bind.
The magneto doesn’t fit under the sport scout’s front cylinder
The plastic retainer on the transmission’s clutch side bearing is interfering with the clutch hub.

Under my ‘I have to do things three times to get it right’ theory, I’ve got two more mockups to go.

WTR : 59

[d_lasher]

I worked on the valves last weekend. Got all of the seats ground down, very lightly, to 35 deg. and lapped in the valves. I went with sport scout valves but I want to keep the 101's cases and springs. But the sport scout valve collars don't fit in the 101's springs. So I made up four new collars. I bought my lathe just for this project but I never expected to use it so much, or even to make engine parts. I sure hope I'm doing this right. I'm sure you guys are thinking it's just a valve collar but it's the first internal engine part I've every made. I'm just hoping it works.

IMG_1402.jpg

[tfburke3]

My under size washers were also recent JG.
Tom

[d_lasher]

>> Curius if your thrust washers came from thee flywheel manufacturer

No, I got the flywheel from T&O and the thrust washers from Jerry Greer's. As I mentioned above, the flywheel had a problem with the oil hole drilled in the wrong spot as well.

[tfburke3]

Curius if your thrust washers came from thee flywheel manufacturer.
My last thrust washers were .002 small on the od.
I like a full seat,centered on the face.Unfortunately even nos valve in nos cylinder/seat the seat is almost on the outer edge of valve.I would find oversize valves if possible rather than recess the seats more than necessary.In other words if you hit the face 35deg.and it cleans up,dress the other two angles minimally to get 1/8 or slightly smaller(intake),thenfit the valve to the seat instead of the other way around.
Tom

[d_lasher]

I never really felt great about the thrust washers in the flywheels and I saw Tom's answer above after I had already torqued and locked them. It always seems it take me three times to get something right. So I decided to redo the flywheels for a the third time. I used a center punch to make four small indents around the thrust washer. It's tighter now and they don't fall out if I hold them upside down and shake. Let's hope three times the charm.

The next job is grinding and lapping the valves and seats. Does anyone have an opinion on grinding the seats? Should I go for a three angle seat and have a narrower valve seat, or go for straight 35 degree angle and use the full seat?

[T. Cotten]

[QUOTE=d_lasher;181945...Truing was easier the second time, almost like they knew where to be. Or, I knew how hard to hit them to get them to move.....[/QUOTE] That's called "memory", Dana!

Works for chassis frames, too, except for the hitting part.

Using my babbit hammer on flywheels was always ONLY out of frustration.
Then I learned to lap tapers first: http://virtualindian.org/10techfly.htm

Your results may vary...

....Cotten

[tfburke3]

If you have good Indian wheels that are not worn you dont need anything.The washer should fit tight almost snapping into the recess.
If you washers fall out of the recess with new wheels the recess is to big.If they still fall out after staking you need bigger thrust washers or new wheels.
The usual fix is carefull shrinkage of the recess with a dull center punch,and I usually add a smear of red loctite to the back side of the washer.
BTW I thought I remember Tom Cotten mentioning a method of fitting harley washers to Indian wheels with bubuggered pins and recesses but forget the details.
Tom

[d_lasher]

It's always something. I trued the wheel assembly up in my lathe. It went easier then I thought it would. Using the press to push down on both wheels at once to square the two wheels up. My first measurements were in the 3 thousands mark. A lot of banging and squeezing later and I'm down to less then 0.001 run out on both the pinion and drive shafts! The whole process took about two hours. The first time!

After I was all done and just about to 'Bag and Tag' them I thought I should test the oil feed passages. I was pretty careful about lining up the crankshaft to match but better safe then sorry. Sure enough the passage was blocked somewhere. I couldn't blow through the oil feed hole.

A little bit of searching found the problem. Both my new crankshaft, old crankshaft and the old flywheel had the oil feed hole drilled 3/8" from the inside face of the flywheel. But my new flywheels had the oil feed hole drilled 3/8" from the outside face. It was off by about 1/4".
IMG_1314.jpg

Other then returning the flywheel that I had already balanced and lapped true the only fix I could see was to move one the holes. The crankshaft is hardened steel and I really didn't think drilling into that was an option. So I put the flywheel on the mill and made a small 1/4" slot to connect the two holes. I was concerned modifying the taper was going to screw up the truing process but it all seemed to work out.

Truing was easier the second time, almost like they knew where to be. Or, I knew how hard to hit them to get them to move.

Moral of the story, trust no one and always check parts as they arrive to make sure they fit and are correct. I could have easily returned the flywheels before I modified them.

WTR : 62

[d_lasher]

That made me laugh, my dad’s answer to everything was ‘Vaseline’.

Thanks for bringing back the memories.

[T. Cotten]

Vaseline, Dana!

....Cotten

[d_lasher]

It’s been awhile but I’m back to the flywheels. This may be a stupid question but what keeps the flywheel crankshaft thrust washers on? I’ve staked them to the flywheel and the pins keep the thrust washers from spinning, but how do they stay flat against the flywheel? Mine are so lose they just fall off if I hold the flywheel down.

B2DDE06F-DEF9-48EE-A6AE-021D6E7E22BA.jpg

Thanks for any help

[d_lasher]

On the never ending hunt for parts, I got to hit up the Dixon swap meet yesterday on my way home. A few posts ago I mentioned my magneto was missing a few critical pieces, like the magnet and coil. I was able to score not one, but two splitdorf ns2’s! They both look to be in good restorable shape.

85589C68-4D6A-428D-AD28-A73833A7A971.jpg

I’m hoping I can make two good running magnetos and use one as a spare for the cannonball.