My 101 Scout Cannonball Build

[d_lasher]

I got the book Mike recommended. Lots of good information and I liked the physics behind it all. I’ve used an empty train station parking lot to run through some of the drills and it’s really helped. Counter stealing, panic stops and figure eights.

One thing I’m worried about is riding in the rain. I missed the rainy season here in California so the first rain I’ll see is on the cannonball. Anyone have any good suggestions on rain gear?

Dana

[PaulCDF]

Dana;
I have found riding motorcycles is a "perishable skill" and riding antiques even more so.
living in Central NY with it long winters seems every spring I have to relearn and start with
a series of very short rides and skill practice in a nearby vacant parking lot. I found the MST Mike
mentioned very useful. Also I bought a "Ride like a Pro" DVD some years back and I will review
that and practice skills from there: circling R & L, figure 8s, braking (really miss those disc brakes).
most likely YouTube would have similar videos.

[ihrescue]

I really like your van Dana way to go. I know you don't have time but if you could get a summary of the motorcycle basic rider's course it really boosts confidence and reminds you of all those muscle memory skills you forgot you knew. Of course you don't need the whole 15 hour course (5 classroom and 10 riding on a skills course) but some of the excellent info in the books as well as some evasive maneuvers and cone skills course really boost riding skills. Short of a summary course I also used the book Proficient Motorcycling from Amazon to review skills like handlebar control and so many more great tips and techniques https://www.amazon.com/Proficient-Mo.../dp/1620081199 Even just reviewing and brushing on on a few skills you already know will probably make the marathon a lot more comfortable and safe. I even went so far as to cut a bunch of new bright yellow tennis balls in half and used them to set up courses for practicing skills in parking lots. That way you can pack them onto your bike and go practice without relying on traffic cones. I thought it was actually fun days of honing skills. Best of luck.

Mike Love

[pisten-bully]

I also have to perfect my motorcycle wave. I forgot you have to wave at every bike the passes by.

Indian riders (...or this one, anyway) wave with the right hand

[d_lasher]

Good weekend, I got a couple of twenty mile runs in today. Bike ran fine, the valve train noise is much lower but still there. It might just be 90 year old gears. I’ve still got two oil leaks, one where the magneto goes into the cam case and another back in the gearbox. I’ll look at thoose this week.

The crazy thing is it’s been thirty years since I last rode a bike and I’m learning just as much about me as I am the bike. I find myself gripping the handlebars with all my might. I have to remember to loosen up or I’ll wear my arms out in an hour. I also have to perfect my motorcycle wave. I forgot you have to wave at every bike the passes by.

In other news we got our support van last week. We named him Max. It’s a 2002 diesel Chevy van. It was a aircraft maintenance van in the Air Force. He still has his Travis AFB property tags on him. Hopefully he’ll get us completely around the country without any problems.

The bike is running and we got a support van, this all starting to get real now. Still have lots left to do.

12 WTR

[d_lasher]

I found the noise in the valve train. I took the cam cover off and inspected everything and found the exhaust rocker arm was interfering with the front cylinder cam gear.

C8DF01AD-E33E-44B8-8114-A95D0E16179A.jpg

I must have screwed up the cam bushing on the case or the steel rocker bushing on the cover. It’s not a lot of interference just enough to make a noise. My best idea right now is too redo the rocker arm bushing to keep the rocker arm from drifting out toward the cam gear I don’t think I appreciated the fact that the lip of the bushing kept the rocker arm from hitting the cam gear.

If it’s not one thing it’s a million.

[d_lasher]

'if the clutch is too sensitive Anything with linkage can be modified to provide less plate motion for greater control.'

Thanks, that actually worked. The hole on the clutch pedal was way to big for the linkage and was jerky even when I moved it by hand. So instead of filling it and drilling a new hole, I drilled a new hole about a 1 inch closer to the pivot point. Now I can go at a stop light without stalling it! It even looks a little like I know how to ride this thing!

Gene, I think you might be right about the magneto lash. The noise seems to be coming from that area. When I was assembling the engine I had a tough time tightening up the mag bolts and getting all the adjustments right because the bolts are hard to get to. I think I might put a few miles under my belt and see what else comes up and then open up the cam case to see what's happening. I set the linkage like you explain it's way better now. I think it was mostly tightening up the loose linkage and moving the pivot hole down. I got about 10 degrees of free play in the clutch arm before it starts to engage.

I kept the 50wt oil in the gearbox because it seems fine now. That was the next step I was going to do if this didn't work

Thanks everyone,
Dana

[gharper]

Dana,

Congratulations! It's a great feeling to finally get that first ride!

I've not used a kevlar clutch, but I did run a Greer clutch which was heaven compared to the original, which was very grabby. First be sure to have complete engagement and absolutely NO pressure on the throw out bearing!! You may need to loosen the seal ring on the clutch worm shaft to be sure there is free play when engaged. Constant pressure, even a little will kill the throw out bearing, even though it runs in oil. Once that's done, adjust the linkage so the pedal heel will rest on the foot board. From here, you should be able to push on the toe pedal and it should move easily just a bit before taking up the internal slack and engaging the throw out bearing. Can't stress enough how important free play is on the throw out bearing when fully engaged. If you have that set properly, burn the clutch in a bit. Start at the bottom of your hill and power up the hill, using some rear brake and slip the clutch. This will help seat your brake in too, after a new bolt! Oil is another issue, what are you using? May want to consider a lighter oil, not sure what the kevlar clutch likes. The Greer clutch was super smooth and I used 20-50 Wt oil.

You're timing chest noise may be normal if it's a clatter, the gears are 90 years old! As I recall you put in new bushings....... If it's a whine, that sounds like gear noise, maybe the gear lash is a bit tight. If it's not horrendous, it will probably quiet down after a few miles. My 24 Chief was horribly noisy, always was. All across America, it bothered me, and got worse. After the Cannonball, I tore into it and replaced all the shafts and bushings which were horribly worn!. It helped, but still clatters a lot, worn gears and none being made, so I live with it. Give it some miles and see if it goes away. If not, pull the timing cove and check. One common problem is when installing the magneto, the gear lash can easily be set too tight as the mag moves around on the base, this makes a horrible gear whine. Fit that carefully. I think your valve clearances are safe for now but after a few hundred miles or so I'd tighten them up to .004 and .005"

Good luck!

[d_lasher]

John: thanks, if nothing else I can blame my constant stalling out on the clutch lining and not my abilities! Has anyone else had issues with the miners linings?

Dana

[d_lasher]

I’ll bite, what’s a ‘fin ring’. I set the the intake to .0O4 and the exhaust to .007. The noise is more a gear whine the a valve noise.

On the clutch I’ve adjust the clutch arm to engage at about 12:00 and the pedal about 15 deg before it hits the floor board. Am I doing that wrong?

Dana

[kitabel]

if the clutch is too sensitive
Anything with linkage can be modified to provide less plate motion for greater control.

Valve train noise: all sidevalve engines have a "fin ring" effect which magnifies lash noise. What did you set the valves to?

[TechNoir]

HI Dana, congratulations on getting this far now moving into the test riding phase.

I cant comment on these 101's specifically but regarding your clutch, I have a 1939 Triumph and the clutch is great with original type cork lined plates. However with a modern lining it is horrible, it is an on and off switch going from nothing to everything with almost no lever movement. Suffice to say I am now using original type linings.

However, that is not to say that your lining is the culprit but I am just saying that its a possibility. Also, seeing as you are doing the Cannonball then the modern lining might prove to be more long lived and perhaps the modern lining just needs to bed in?

I am sure some 101 Scout people will be able to provide better insight.

John

[d_lasher]

I got to take the bike out for several short runs today. I got the carb all tuned up and he runs great. That said I did have a few problems.

The rear brake band adjusting bolt snapped in half when I slammed on the brakes to test them. I’ll have to fab up a new bolt to fit the brake band.

The valve train is loud. Is it supposed to be that loud. I’m worried I messed up something in the valve train. Lots of gear noise. Should I be worried about this?

And I’m having trouble with the clutch from a standing start. I’ve never driven a foot clutch and I’m having a hard time getting it. It’s really sticky. It’s on or off. It’s a brand new kevlar clutch with 3 of the springs left out. I’m not sure if it’s me and I’m just not good at the foot clutch yet or if the clutch is too sensitive. Any good ideas other then practice?

Thanks

[d_lasher]

Dave - Thanks and I'll take car of that!

Gene - Thanks, the first shakedown run will just be around the block. But, I live on the top of a steep hill and everything is down hill from my garage. So the first thing I'll be testing are the brakes. Wish me luck.

[gharper]

Looks Good Dana! Now the fun really begins, shakedown rides and the long process of adjusting the oil pump..... Good Luck!
Gene