101 Scout... going to take a while

[Skirted]

Great work Harry! Thanks for the pics. Enjoy following the progress. All too often original parts are scrapped because repops or replacements are the "EASY" way out. Nothing beats the satisfaction of restoring an original part that many would deem junk! Keep up that relentless perseverance.

[pisten-bully]

Had a fun thing show up in the mail from one of my customers the other day, so onto the 101 it went! I may have to move there because the license plates are so cool ;-)

[T. Cotten]

Wow Harry.

I have a nearly identical wood block (but its cedar).
And a certainly identical rug (but more stained).

Bolting your state plate over it should keep its outline. If not, use a rat-tail file!

...Cotten

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Had a fun thing show up in the mail from one of my customers the other day, so onto the 101 it went! I may have to move there because the license plates are so cool ;-)

That is my favorite MC license tag, bar none! I always thought, if your symbol is a polar bear, you must be hardy to ride a motorbike. Funnier that they only need a few numbers ;-)

It's too late for you now, but I have oft run into oval rims. My trick is to take the oval out in the press to make them slightly more round. It cuts down the frustration. I cut blocks to fit the shoulders and then start pressing until they are round enough to proceed. They spring into shape, though I'm always a bit hesitant to press near the weld.

I dig all your home made wrenches!

[pisten-bully]

I took time today to open up the motor today, it's been used! The drive gear came off and that's when I noticed the end of the drive shaft was chipped a bit, the nut still threads on fully but it may require a new shaft:



Cases split easy enough:



And revealed some welding on the drive side flywheel:



So the next step is to clean everything and take a look at those welds, I hope I don't need a flywheel!

I am hoping to have Danny Weil do the bottom end for me if he has the time. The top end I can do myself mostly, hoping to use the existing two-ring pistons as pistons for the 37 c.i. Scout motor are not being made as far as I know.

[pisten-bully]

And I have a decision to make regarding the cases. There's some pitting on the bottom, it probably sat around in the mud for a while, and I'm leaning towards coating the inside of the cases with Glyptal. I know there are differing opinions on the use of a coating so I'll have to weigh the factors, I think the main reason to use Glyptal on these cases is because they're so pitted they may be more likely to leak somehow?

[T. Cotten]

I wouldn't worry about the chipped threads, Harry!

The nut is only an assembly aid to squeeze the shaft into the flywheel. The taper should hold it firm, like a nail in oak.

Roller wear is reason to replace a pin.

The welds look scary to me. But it ran like that?

...Cotten
PS: It looks like my edit to my last post didn't stick. Wonder what I meant?

[cHarley32]

It will be interesting to see what's on the back side when wheels are taken apart. Agree welds are scary! They were welded very low amprege, full of the obvious porosity. Will be appreciative of pics going forward. Thanks in advance

[Mick christie]

Replace the flywheels, it was welded for a reason and its not worth busted up cases if they fail now, flywheels are easy to find and not expensive, good cases are hard to find! Pistons are available for the 600cc engines in the usa but the original cast pistons are good but should be crack tested first

[pisten-bully]

Yes, cracked all the way through both sides.

rod side:


case side:


Truett and Osborne have the right size, are they known for good fit and quality?

[d_lasher]

Check out my post about the t and o flywheels, https://www.thecastlehillgarage.com/...ways-something. Other then the oil way drilled on the wrong side I had good luck with them.

I still have my original flywheels, let me know if you want them, it’d just be shipping.

[T. Cotten]

I have a door-stop that looks better, Harry!

All the T&O wheels I 'fondled' were delightful, the easiest to 'true' of all.

(Disclaimer: That was many years ago, and all 'brand x' replacements...)

....Cotten
PS: Sweet cheeses, Harry!

Is that brass crammed into the taper?

Obviously these cobbles put it back in service. We should learn from that, even though today we would never be so brave, nor so resourceful. Consider welding cast iron in the first place...
Your doorstop is better than mine, Harry!

[pisten-bully]

Check out my post about the t and o flywheels, https://www.thecastlehillgarage.com/...ways-something. Other then the oil way drilled on the wrong side I had good luck with them.

I still have my original flywheels, let me know if you want them, it’d just be shipping.

Dana, that’s an awesome offer, thank-you! And I hadn’t seen your blog either, the details on the flywheel assembly you did are outstanding!!

I’m keeping this engine as it was made, that is 37 c.i. Most of the 1928+ Scout motors in North America were 45 c.i. with a longer stroke, so I’m guessing your flywheels are the same.... and for a 45, and so they likely won’t work in my 37, but really, thanks for the offer!

[pisten-bully]

....Cotten
PS: Sweet cheeses, Harry!

Is that brass crammed into the taper?

Obviously these cobbles put it back in service. We should learn from that, even though today we would never be so brave, nor so resourceful.

Cotten, indeed a thin brass wrap in the taper, not a bushing, it was cut to size and wrapped end to end in there. But you wouldn’t have known it the way that taper held the pin...came out just as hard as the other one!

I once heard about a fellow who used straw to replace a head gasket....guess you do what you have to do!

[exeric]

That brass shim is remarkable, and shows evidence of how resourceful our forefathers were. I have to say it again, Harry; you take the best pictures, and present such useful documents. And, that reminds me of another story some people at this forum dislike; but I think add character to our grand hobby. I recall a story told to me by Bud Cox at the old Howard Johnson's meet in Orlando. He told of a mechanically minded young man in Kansas who owned a Model T. It had a lot of miles on it, and was nearly worn out. He was out in the middle of nowhere when he could tell a main bearing was gone. He got the pan off, and had correctly diagnosed the problem. He made a new bearing by cutting off some of his leather belt, and trimming it with his pocket knife and re-installing it on the crankshaft. Not only did it get him home, but ran better than before so he did nothing more. He drove the Model T until he was drafted into WW2 and sold it to a neighbor farmer. He survived the war and returned home. Later he met the farmer he sold the Model T to. The farmer said the car ran good all through the war, but he said the rear main bearing was worn out and he couldn't find anyone that knew where he could get a new leather main bearing.