101 Scout... going to take a while

[exeric]

I recently had to rework the front fender on my Honda 450. It turned out to be just as much of a headache as any Harley, Henderson, Excelsior, or Indian. The big problem is the fit of the wheel/tire, to the centerline of the fender. That is not only an aesthetic problem, but can be a wheel lacing, or bent fork problem and the challenge is to find out what needs to be fixed (and how to fix it). You really have to take your hat off to every motorcycle manufacturer for making tools, and dies that were/are so precise that mass production produced new motorcycles that looked good.

[pisten-bully]

The special bolt that retains the pinion gear was mangled up something terrible, I wasn't certain if it was a bolt or nut and I wasn't looking forward to taking it off. But it really wasn't a problem, some light taps with a small chisel and it started to turn.



One can purchase a pinon gear puller, but I decided to see if I could throw one together from scraps hanging around, it's not pretty to look at but it worked like a charm (one more welding job without my reading glasses... need to keep a pair in my tool box!)

[pisten-bully]

I'm a little stumped at the moment and hoping someone can set me straight. I'm reassembling the gearbox and hoping to set main shaft end play but something's not right. When I mount the chain sprocket to the outside splined tube of the driver gear A) I can't get the nut to thread fully onto the end, and B) if I install the smallest .060 thrust washer on the shaft inside then the shaft doesn't protrude far enough to expose the shoulder that the cup for the kicker springs is to ride on:



the kicker gear lines up inside with the countershaft well:



and the bearing is fully seated against the case:



New bearing, but it is the same thickness as the bearing it replaced. And there is also a collar that spaces the chain sprocket away from the case, I purchased a new one and it is the same measurement as the one that came out.

So, I'm wondering if it is okay to install the main shaft with no thrust washers on the chain sprocket side and two thrust washers on the clutch side?

[tfburke3]

It looks like you need get your sprocket further on the driver.Im more familiar with chiefs but I think its similar.
How does the sprocket fit without the spacer behind it?I set the sprocet,then take a measure and sometimes have to adjust the spacer so the nut is full tight just ask the spacer bottoms out to ensure the sproket is all the way home on the splines.
If the sprocket only goes on that far without the spacer either the sproket or driver is off.With a .030 lock tab under the nut you will only have afew threads on the nut.
Tom

[pisten-bully]

It looks like you need get your sprocket further on the driver.Im more familiar with chiefs but I think its similar.
How does the sprocket fit without the spacer behind it?I set the sprocet,,then take a measure and sometimes have to adjust the spacer so the nut is full tight just ask the spacer bottoms out to ensure the sproket is all the way home on the splines.
Tom

Thanks Tom, if I reduce the spacer collar then that would do it. My mistake is that I didn’t pay attention when I took it apart, but I am reusing most of the original parts. Bearings are new and I did purchase a new collar, but the new bearings and the new collar measure up exactly like the old bearing and collar.

I toyed with the idea of reducing the collar dimension, but wondered if sprocket alignment (gearbox to wheel) might suffer, and I also wondered if the chain shouldn’t be any closer to the gear case. But we’re only looking at a small adjustment....hmmm!

[tfburke3]

Well it looks like you are paying attention to me.
Obviously the sprocket position will effect chain align,but you have get the sprocket fully on the driver with a full nut and lock tab.
What changed?
Tom

[pisten-bully]

What changed?

I don’t know! Same shaft, same drive gear, same chain sprocket, same nut to hold on the sprocket, new but same dimension bearing, new but same dimension collar. Oh, and I’m new...I wasn’t there when the gearbox was probably rebuilt before!

(...and I always pay attention to your contributions!)

[PaulCDF]

This entire build is SUPER. Truly Inspirational.

[exeric]

Like Tom said, I think the sprocket needs full engagement on the SDG, and I suspect that is where the problem is. Maybe there is a burr on the sprocket, or a wear pattern on the SDG splines that is hanging up the sprocket. Those large, skinny, fine thread nuts are hard to tighten, and always make you have doubts if they're fully seated. I'm just throwing stuff out there as I'm sure you've thought all of this out. I also wanted to say I like your pinion gear puller and think any tool that can get the job done is beautiful.

[d_lasher]

So, on mine the nut threads all the way in and tightens against a washer and the sprocket. From what I can see if the nut doesn't tighten all the way in, the sprocket isn't all the way back. If you take the drive gear out and put it together on the bench does it fit then? The nut not threading all the way in doesn't look like a thrust washer problem because the nut should push in on the sprocket which would be limited by the splines on the main gear, not the bearing or mainshaft.

Also my ratchet cup washer rides against the nut not the shoulder on the main shaft. I checked the wear pattern on the cup washer it looks like it's always been that way. But to be honest I wouldn't have looked if you hadn't said anything

I don't think it matters to this problem but is the sprocket on the right way? It's hard to tell from the picture.

I can take pictures of mine if you want. I can even take the drive gear out and put the sprocket and nut on and send you what mine does if you want.

Good Luck
Dana

[d_lasher]

So I stand corrected. I just took mine apart. The nut pushes on the sprocket, the sprocket pushes on a 0.005 shim, the shim pushes on the spacer, the spacer pushes on the bearing and the bearing pushes back on the face of the drive gear. So the total width of the bearing, spacer, shim and sprocket is too wide on yours or something is in the way.

Dana

[pisten-bully]

Thanks Dana, very helpful! I'm going to proceed by using Tom's idea to adjust the depth of the spacer collar.

The sprocket will seat fully into the splines (needs to be tapped on lightly to fully seat), but without the collar the nut will fully thread onto the driver:



..and when I view the spacer and bearing together on the bench there is simply not enough length in the sprocket driver gear to accommodate the sprocket, spacer, and bearing while allowing the nut to fully thread on the outside:



My mistake was not making note of how it was assembled originally...it could have been wrong from the start, maybe a new sprocket driver gear was put in (it looks to be in very good shape!)

Thanks all for looking!

[tfburke3]

Hey Harry,looks like your figuring it out.You made a good point about align.I think your collar or driver must have been off almost 1/4".
If you have the correct collar that puts the sprocket in proper alignment with the rear then you have the wrong driver.
You may want to check with the lower end and trans in the frame with rear wheel before you cut down your new spacer.
Thats the way the nut should look with the lock tab installed.
Tom

[d_lasher]

My bearing is 0.374", My spacer is 0.570" and the sprocket is 0.233". I'm not able to get to the gear right now. Hope this helps.
Dana

[pisten-bully]

My bearing is 0.374", My spacer is 0.570" and the sprocket is 0.233". I'm not able to get to the gear right now. Hope this helps.
Dana

Dana, that is awesome! So my spacer is also .570, my bearing is .394, but my sprocket is .276 on the splines. I didn't consider the sprocket (of course!) and I noticed that Greer sprockets are flat on one side and dished on the other, this sprocket is dished on both sides. If I can pick up .04 with a different sprocket it can only help! Thanks again!