Pretending to know what I am doing - 1947 FL

[govmule84]

Mike is busy...

[Bills37]

I love seeing this kind of work done. People really show off their talent and creativity when restoring these old motorcycles.

[govmule84]

Nothing to be nervous about. Looking good!
(I'm another interested follower.)

You're right, of course. Still gives me heart-attack pangs.

[Rooster]

Nothing to be nervous about. Looking good!
(I'm another interested follower.)

[govmule84]

#nervousshits



Mike saved the castings for reuse...

[govmule84]

Excellent pictures and discussion.
The neck races in my 37 had some light pocketing so I brazed a ball bearing to some stock, fitted the races in the lathe and lapped them with coarse lapping paste, and finished off with fine paste. From memory, it wasn't a super quick job, but was completely effective. I thought about using one of those stones in your picture, but didn't know how to form the correct radius on the end.
Enjoying your thread.

I think the stone sort of deforms to the existing curvature, but Paul shapes his with a diamond-tipped dressing tool. In either event, I doubt it matters if you're off even by a whole bunch... it's hardly like this is a high-speed application. I just needed the deep notches out. I expect I'll be dead the next time they need to be replaced.

I like that lapping idea, too. May have to steal that for next time.

[Steve Little]

Excellent pictures and discussion.
The neck races in my 37 had some light pocketing so I brazed a ball bearing to some stock, fitted the races in the lathe and lapped them with coarse lapping paste, and finished off with fine paste. From memory, it wasn't a super quick job, but was completely effective. I thought about using one of those stones in your picture, but didn't know how to form the correct radius on the end.
Enjoying your thread.

[govmule84]

If you got factory neck cups, Paul at ACF showed me how he regrinds 'em. All four pieces cost $180. These OEM units are hardened way deeper than I ever woulda guessed.





One more problem solved...

[govmule84]

Liam,
I think Len is looking at the cable attachment point, which should be threaded 5/16-18 on a '41 up backing plate but would be a smooth bore larger hole on earlier ones.

Yeah, I know what he meant. This backing plate goes with the bike.

Correct, I recut several for some friends last year, and the races were not near as hard as original. I was able to cut them on the lathe, originals forget about cutting on a lathe. I think the repops were in the 40Rc range.

I recall you telling me to find OEM ones, and the words did not fall on deaf ears, but in several months of looking I have not found any, so it looks like V-twin or nothin'. I'd rather die on it than never ride it.

[BigLakeBob]

Be sure to check the head cup kit carefully. Most I've seen are made wrong and the overall stack height is too high causing all sorts of problems with the top nuts and steering damper parts. The concave recess in the inner races is not deep enough, making the races too thick.

Correct, I recut several for some friends last year, and the races were not near as hard as original. I was able to cut them on the lathe, originals forget about cutting on a lathe. I think the repops were in the 40Rc range.

[Rubone]

Liam,
I think Len is looking at the cable attachment point, which should be threaded 5/16-18 on a '41 up backing plate but would be a smooth bore larger hole on earlier ones.

[govmule84]

Looks like your brake backing plate is not correct for your 47. I would be interested in it if your willing too let go to get one that's right for the 47.

Got the same color paint as everything else on the bike. Looks right as rain to me.

[len dowe]

Looks like your brake backing plate is not correct for your 47. I would be interested in it if your willing too let go to get one that's right for the 47.

[govmule84]

Be sure to check the head cup kit carefully. Most I've seen are made wrong and the overall stack height is too high causing all sorts of problems with the top nuts and steering damper parts. The concave recess in the inner races is not deep enough, making the races too thick.

Second time I have heard this, Robbie. It's causing me concern. Do you have any solutions or suppliers for a non-V-twin part that might actually fit as designed? I've heard others tell me "buy OEM," which sounds great, but I cannot seem to find it.

[Rubone]

Be sure to check the head cup kit carefully. Most I've seen are made wrong and the overall stack height is too high causing all sorts of problems with the top nuts and steering damper parts. The concave recess in the inner races is not deep enough, making the races too thick.