McMaster Carr is a great company. I once ordered something from them on a Tuesday morning and it was at my door by noon Wednesday.
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Originally posted by exeric View PostMcMaster Carr is a great company. I once ordered something from them on a Tuesday morning and it was at my door by noon Wednesday.
Sometimes when I've placed an order in the morning, the parts have shown up before the end of the day.
They're great !!
Keep up the GREAT work Joe !!Rick Morsher, aka Earl
AMCA #1905
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Gentlemen,
This is what I always thought the AMCA forum is about!!! I am still a bit confused about just who is doing the machining and who is posting but I am simply floored about the ability to do this kind of machining work. I am just a simple leatherman and this stuff just blows me away!!! This thread is simply awesome--Keep it coming--Michael6671
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I order a good bit of stuff from McMaster Carr also, get one of their catalogs, sometimes I can't find what I want online but can find it in the cat, it's hugh but worth it.Louie
FaceBook >>>Modern Antique Cycle
Blog Site >>> http://louiemcman.blogspot.com/
YouTube >>> LouieMCman
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More of the same? Only different or is it?
Eric
I was notified by the computer generated statement that my Saturday order would be shipped on Monday, hopefully arrive on Tuesday.
Earl
Thank you for the positive comment, I am moving as fast as possible while attempting to keep up with other responsibilities such as work. I have cut out 95% of all activities other than work to finish this bike on time.
Michael Paquette
Happy to have your approval pertaining to this article, nice comment. I am doing the machine work and building of the bike. Typically at the end of each evening I try to write an article, (a couple paragraphs) and then send photos to Cory my partner in crime here. Cory then post the photos for me because I have not taken the time to figure out how to post the photos in the size restraint format the club web site is looking for. Although I do post the You Tube videos.
As far as leather goes the seat was farmed out, perhaps a photo of the seat is in order.
Louie
The Mc Master Carr catalog is a little intimidating the web site is fairly simple. They also have a phone number in case you cannot find what you are looking for.
The brake clevis linkage pieces received a little finishing attention today completing them in preparation for plating.
W. stopped by Thursday and gave me the OK to remove the pedal crank from his loaner 1914. This allowed me to get dimensions and make the parts that were not possible without the removal of these items. I also learned that the manually lubricated cross hole oiling system for the pedal crank shaft has a groove that runs the length of the shaft to carry oil to the right hand side from the center of the shaft on the left end. This groove was originally cut by a horizontal cutting saw on a horizontal machine typical for the times. Today we use end mills instead of giant slitting saws mounted on horizontal arbors.
Two interlocking opposing cups originally made from stampings enclose a spring inside. These were reproduced this evening from solid steel on the Monarch lathe. The cups fit on the right hand pedal crank next to the rear brake actuator to hold the actuator snugly in place by spring pressure. This week I will have the guys at McGuire spring twist up some music wire in A sharp to take care of the spring responsibilities in this devise. Additional machine work and hand benching of the shapes and contours of the pedal cranks were also addressed tonight.
Some times setups are not so pretty on one item processes, example look at the sheet metal hanging out from the set up holding the pedal crank arm in the Bridgeport. It was just the right shim and it was close buy, where are those tin snips anyway's? See photos soon to come.
JoeLast edited by Slojo; 05-23-2010, 01:07 AM.
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Good day for a ride
A fantastic day, my walk to work was one that left me wanting to go riding. Wait no time for that untill September. The sun shinning on the roof of the barn what a sight to see. Then the warm greeting from three of my best friends all wanting to be the chosen one (see attached photos). But who gets all the attention? the Gray Ghost and it isn't even Gray yet.
The clutch arm linkage was on the schedule for today, most of the time was spent making tolling for the bends in the flat linkage (3/16X5/8").
Once the tolling was completed the bending went easy. If I had to do it all over the tooling design would have just a slightly different approach, other wise all went well and the finish part is near perfect. Not bad for the first attempt.
Bending the steel the hard way; was not so hard with this process. I would like to make the round die a two piece affair to improve on the quality of the part. The groove width could be close and after the bending the die could be opened up to remove the part.
W's fine 1914 went back home this evening it sure was nice to have it around for the short visit. What a great help it was for my project after all its the details that count.
Joe
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Hey Slojo,
Is there any part of this bike you haven't remade?Be sure to visit;
http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/
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Anybody smell paint yet?
Matt
I am happy to have you along, keep up your good work as you are doing a great job with your Sears and Roebuck project. I look forward to riding along side you again.
Eric
The only material I located for this clutch rod was 1018 cold rolled 3/16X5/8". The material bent well with the right tooling. There was a considerable amount of spring back. The inside radius was 1 3/8" if I remember correctly and about a ninety five degree sweep. Ninety might have been better, it is difficult to tell for sure.
Barry
What can I say other than don't try this at home kids.
Chris
If I haven't made it I have spent a lot of time fixing it. My intent is to use as many original parts as I find available. If I had to guess 75% on the bike by weight will be original HD parts maybe not the right year (fork and seat). I would like to think the bike is actually a fourteen by volume.
Now on to business.
The front fork rocker studs are back from heat treat, Sun Steel in South Lyon Michigan. these parts are Ion Nitride since the carbon level of the material was high and it is in a preheat treat stage of the process the core material is already about 30 Rc for toughness these rocker studs will carry the load. The Ion treatment produces an exterior hardness of 60 Rc and excellent wear resistance.
I had the pedal crank arm tapered triangle drive hole welded closed and re-machined it in preparation for a new drive hole to be cut into it. This morning prior to hitting the road for some customer work I made a basic fixture to hold the pedal crank arm so the wire E.D.M. shop could easily hold on to the devise in their four axis wire machine and cut the tapered triangle drive shape. A good fit without any looseness, or lost motion is important here. That's all folks .....(for tonight, photos as usual to follow).
I forgot to mention I delivered the first batch of parts to my painters tonight.
JoeLast edited by Slojo; 05-25-2010, 08:55 AM.
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Out playing repair dude today. I was able to get one out of two running, tomorrow the second machine should be up and running also by way off exchanging a board in the computer.
On my way back home I went to Alloy (Industries?) In Chelsea Michigan. Carl and Big Al Perry really run a nice shop. You see, first things first I delivered the newly acquired sprockets for my "transmission" (idler sprocket set) to be Blanchard ground to .245" thick. I was unable to order this width so it's off to the grinder to make the necessary changes.
The new sprockets are special ordered with heat treated teeth. They will hold up to the long distance travels coming up.
The next trip for the sprockets will be to the E.D.M. probably tomorrow.
Tonight I finished the muffler cut out spring tab mount. In the past I have seen these spring clips broken so I have several backups already made. If a clip breaks on an original muffler you would have to drill out the rivets that hold the clip to the front muffler casting. I made the decision to run an 8X32 tap and screw with Anti Seize compound into the muffler so the clip can be easily changed in case of failure. This is a minor alteration that should go unnoticed. I will install my fillester machine screws after plating.
Looking over all the parts currently in preparation to go out for plating I decided to check the fit of some of the newly manufactured parts. The threads work beautifully but on the square clevis's I turned a tap in about three extra revolutions to allow for that much more adjustment on the linkages (some times its the little things that count).
JoeLast edited by Slojo; 05-25-2010, 11:33 PM.
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