I just saw your post Peter. I hope you're feeling better.
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Wet sumping question/hard to kick
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I just went to baseline the carb adjustments and was surprised what I found. The low-speed screw was only 7/8 of a turn open from seated. The high-speed screw was 1-7/8 turns open from seated. The baseline adjustments mentioned in the book are 4 and 1-1/2 turns, respectively. So the low-speed is set far leaner than the baseline, yet the plugs still fouled at idle. Has anyone seen adjustments this far away from the baseline?
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Lipdog!
Please make certain that your LS needle is 3.5" long, the spring in the knob is on top of the needle, and the lift spring collar is in place with the flat side down.
I send M344s out set at three and a half turns on the LS, and one and a half on the HS, but that assumes a sealed manifold assembly.
....CottenAMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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Originally posted by pisten-bully View Post...and be prepared for the little spring loaded ball to go flying if you're not careful! (...don't ask me how I know.)
Only if its frozen, of course...
The choke detente always makes an escape.
....CottenAttached FilesLast edited by T. Cotten; 09-16-2019, 12:27 PM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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I like the advice of PRG above:
"(G)etting a kiwi ez drain and a dedicated 5 quart oil container and draining off after a ride if this machine is to sit at all. As that size container permits all the oil to be drained off
, no measuring required when the next ride comes around, just pour it in and go."
Simple clean, effective No clouds No worries.
Have you reached out to your builder? What does he say??
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Originally posted by Lipdog View Post..I like the idea of a valve to shut the oil supply while the bike is sitting...
....CottenAttached FilesAMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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I don't know I am no expert on oil pumps (or anything mechanical) but consider, these bikes are seventy years old! There have been advances in oil pumps over the last 70 years or they would still be 'state of the art'.
I only changed my throttle to the RIGHT and installed a more modern front brake due to MY limitations as a rider and almost taking us 'into the weeds' (actually my neighbors
fence and parked car) a few times early on. My fault.
Crazy as it may sound I LOVE this old bike accept it as is, idiosyncrasies and all. That's part of the fun. Just be safe.
I only ride once or twice a week so my bike sits. PRG's advice makes a lot of sense to me. I had thought of cutting the oil intake line and splicing in some rubber oil tubing
that I could clamp with blunt forceps but upon reflection; LESS is more.
In the end the bike is yours to do as you feel is best for both of you.
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So lets talk about the ball check, Folks.
The HDs made a fool of me;
The Indian aluminum pump doesn't give room for that. Its too primitive to have options, like piloting.
My Indian pump studies were all about flow and supposed pressure, and futile because of the temperature variable.
(I have some of Vern Goodwin's handwritten notes somewhere...)
The aluminum pump's simple ball seat can only be whacked, and that only makes it worse on a harley.
So does lapping.
Your rebuilder might have tried anyway.
I can only suggest a flat cut to refreshen it.
...Cotten
PS: Ironically, my HD burnishing technique worked best on aluminum. But I disavow it.
PPS: If anybody wants a piece o' PEEK to try to cut a seat insert, I'm mean enough to give it to you free.Attached FilesLast edited by T. Cotten; 09-20-2019, 12:34 PM.AMCA #776
Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!
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