What type tubing for oil lines?

[larrymgibson]

I'm re-assembling my 1947 chief for the first time in 25 years. The oil lines have been lost. My dad relocated the oil tank to a homemade one (made from an Indian fender) placed under the seat - like Harleys are. This allowed him to use the oil tank for more fuel; therefore I cannot buy and use stock lines. Any suggestions for currently available tubing that would be easy to form and provide satisfactory performance considering the pressure, heat and contents?

Thanks - Larry Gibson

[exeric]

I would use a seamless tubing of brass, copper, steel, or stainless steel. Indian used copper lines, as did many manufacturers (except H-D). There is always the risk of stress cracking due to vibration; and that is why many people won't use copper, but I have personally had steel lines stress crack, and copper lines that were trouble free. Since this is a custom application, you can do whatever you want, and you may want to go to rubber lines.

[larrymgibson]

Thanks, Eric. I was leaning toward copper lines. I have a friend and co-worker who is an expert at forming copper. I think that is what we will do - probably tomorrow. I'm still open to suggestions, though.

Larry Gibson

[pisten-bully]

Thanks, Eric. I was leaning toward copper lines. I have a friend and co-worker who is an expert at forming copper. I think that is what we will do - probably tomorrow. I'm still open to suggestions, though.

Larry Gibson

Larry, sounds like a challenge to route what with the exhaust and cylinder between the pump and your tank! Have you looked at braided stainless? Put up a photo when you're done, it would be interesting to see what you came up with.

[larrymgibson]

Yes, I thought about braided stainless. That's one of the reasons I wanted to pick some brains on the forum. I have some old photos from 1991, but they aren't too clear. I will post what we do. Thanks for the input.
Larry

[exeric]

Indian lines use a proprietary brass ferrule. Every motorcycle I own (except for 2 panheads) use a ferrule, designed to seal on the fittings made for that bike. I always make new ferrules for when I make new gas, and oil lines. If you're going to use modern compression fittings, you'll have to change all of your fittings on the motor, and tanks. The same would apply to swedged lines. Plumbing on a motorcycles can be just as aggravating as plumbing on a house

[T. Cotten]

Indian lines use a proprietary brass ferrule. Every motorcycle I own (except for 2 panheads) use a ferrule, designed to seal on the fittings made for that bike. I always make new ferrules for when I make new gas, and oil lines. If you're going to use modern compression fittings, you'll have to change all of your fittings on the motor, and tanks. The same would apply to swedged lines. Plumbing on a motorcycles can be just as aggravating as plumbing on a house

Agreed, Eric,

But the 'trap' (bad plumbing pun) we face is the puzzle of determining original tapers from intentionally distorted original ferrules.
(T'ain't never easy, and then a guess at best.)

If anybody has any sort of compiled reference that makes sense, we all give thanks in advance,...
(Even if it ain't verifiable..., its a clue!)

....Cotten

[exeric]

That is a good point, Tom. I generally indicate an original ferrule to set the lathe compound, but like you said; originals are often gouged, wonked, and warped. From recollection; I believe most motorcycle fittings are a nice, nominal angle. It's Harley-Davidson that often blazed their own trail.

[Rubone]

Rigid tubing is much easier to avoid obstacles with then rubber or stainless which do not hold a shape. 3/8" automotive brake line works well for fabrication and comes in assorted lengths, and is also available in different diameters. Small commercial tubing benders work quit well with patience and pre-planning.

[T. Cotten]

That is a good point, Tom. I generally indicate an original ferrule to set the lathe compound, but like you said; originals are often gouged, wonked, and warped. From recollection; I believe most motorcycle fittings are a nice, nominal angle. It's Harley-Davidson that often blazed their own trail.

I wouldn't exonerate any marque for that crime, Eric!

A reference would be ideal,
..because I'm not happy even with averages of many of the same ferrule.
Reproductions can't be trusted (sorry if just I preached to the choir..), and I often wonder if many were produced with an interference angle to its seat.
(Somewhere, I have Machinist's Handbooks and SAE annuals. somewhere. But neither would probably cite any proprietary designs.)

I occasionally resort to chilling modelling clay to determine seats. Its futile. Only direct math does worse for me!

....Cotten

[someozybloke]

Have used dAir-Con copper pipe when creating custom oil and fuel lines they generally come in a good selection of sizes.

Go talk to a refrigerator or air-conditioning repair workshop.

[Steve Slocombe]

Dear Eric, Harley did use copper oil lines up until around 1940. They were flat nickel plated with no steps on the nuts. The modern repros are cadmium plated steel with stepped nuts, thus giving our judges plenty of scope for deductions.

[larrymgibson]

Well, the oil lines are fabricated and installed. (photo coming soon) I'm ready to put in some oil and kick it over to see if I have oil flow. Any suggestions and should I still use SAE 50W non-detergent or are modern oils a better idea?
Thanks.
Larry Gibson

[Skirted]

Many I know including me run straight 50wt in their Indians when riding in temp range of say 50-85 deg F. Some like to run a 20-50 multi-viscosity. Do not seek out non-detergent.
If routinely riding in hot climate above 85deg I'd go to a 60wt.
Try to find an oil specially formulated for old engines such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/PennGrade-1-...IAAOSwjvJZOZzN
There are many other suitable brands.

For the primary and trans (assuming they are still common to each other on your bike) many like the HD Sportser Primary/Trans oil which is designed for the transmission and wet clutches. Some just run a straight 30wt.

[Chuck#1848]

Rigid tubing is much easier to avoid obstacles with then rubber or stainless which do not hold a shape. 3/8" automotive brake line works well for fabrication and comes in assorted lengths, and is also available in different diameters. Small commercial tubing benders work quit well with patience and pre-planning.

Robbie, That's what I used on my 741 Indian Bobber