Originally posted by Green Indian
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What type tubing for oil lines?
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thumbnail_merkfitt%20001.jpg
I made 9 of these Merkel furrules, and nuts just today. I always make my own, and copy original dimensions. I match the angle of the ferrule to the angle of the mating fitting and have never had a leak. There are many modern devices, and materials that are superior to those from 100 years ago, but the challenge, and fun of old bikes is to explore the world of yesterday. I think using modern technology on old bikes can be appropriate inside the motor, trans, and other places that don't show; but you have to be careful that you don't loose the whole point of messing around with ancient motorcycles.
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Originally posted by exeric View PostI agree with RichO. I only use copper lines if I make the ferrule that is soldered to the copper line, and match the angle of the fitting. That is the way all manufacturers who used copper lines did it, and they knew what they were doing.
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Originally posted by larrymgibson View PostThe re-routing was to increase the fuel capacity. My dad and I rode a couple of trips from Indiana to Colorado and beyond. He eventually put over 100,000 miles on this Indian. In 1955-1960, fuel stations were few and far between in the mountains. He was a light aircraft mechanic and liked to make things better. The idea came from Harleys which have similar oil tank locations. This added almost another gallon of fuel capacity. He also fabricated a tank which fit between the two tanks. He used it on several trips out west. I just decided to retain the modifications that were made by my dad.
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Do you mean a support in the middle of the run to lessen the vibration on the fittings?
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Instead of replying to the thread, I replied to the last comment. Not sure how the notification works. I'll copy here.
The re-routing was to increase the fuel capacity. My dad and I rode a couple of trips from Indiana to Colorado and beyond. He eventually put over 100,000 miles on this Indian. In 1955-1960, fuel stations were few and far between in the mountains. He was a light aircraft mechanic and liked to make things better. The idea came from Harleys which have similar oil tank locations. This added almost another gallon of fuel capacity. He also fabricated a tank which fit between the two tanks. He used it on several trips out west. I just decided to retain the modifications that were made by my dad.
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The re-routing was to increase the fuel capacity. My dad and I rode a couple of trips from Indiana to Colorado and beyond. He eventually put over 100,000 miles on this Indian. In 1955-1960, fuel stations were few and far between in the mountains. He was a light aircraft mechanic and liked to make things better. The idea came from Harleys which have similar oil tank locations. This added almost another gallon of fuel capacity. He also fabricated a tank which fit between the two tanks. He used it on several trips out west. I just decided to retain the modifications that were made by my dad.Last edited by larrymgibson; 12-29-2018, 11:55 AM.
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I agree with RichO. I only use copper lines if I make the ferrule that is soldered to the copper line, and match the angle of the fitting. That is the way all manufacturers who used copper lines did it, and they knew what they were doing.
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I would caution against using modern compression fitting with copper lines (not the same as soldered on ferrules) as they compression the line and make a fracture line that will deepen from vibration and cause failure. I sometimes put a loop in them to give the line a place to flex and cancel out vibration. Just sayin'.
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Larry,
I've never seen a Chief oil tank and line run in that manner, was the bike always like that? Are there issues with the oil tank/gas tank leaking that required the re-routing of the tank and lines?
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An intermediate support should be added if you haven't already done so.
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I finally got my Indian running. I looked in the tank with a borescope and confirmed the oil was being returned. Here is a photo of the copper lines. It seems to miss everything and flows oil.IMG_4210.jpg
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i have been using cunifer brake lines for many years, a nickle copper alloy tubing, easily bendable and used on many high end autos. i would think larger diameters would be available.
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Originally posted by Rubone View PostRigid tubing is much easier to avoid obstacles with then rubber or stainless which do not hold a shape. 3/8" automotive brake line works well for fabrication and comes in assorted lengths, and is also available in different diameters. Small commercial tubing benders work quit well with patience and pre-planning.
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