48 pan threaded intake spigot replacement information needed

[dukekleman]

Mark,
This photo of your cylinder head shows exactly why we need the correct type of thread sealant I referred to in post #16 along with my statements regarding aged parts.

IMG_20260413_142603708~2.jpg
The flange surface will never seal correctly against the surface on the cylinder head shown in the photo. The proper sealant I mentioned and torque value used will fix this with confidence and a proven track record on numerous motorcycles.

I hope this helps,

Duke Kleman

[T. Cotten]

Mark,
This photo of your cylinder head shows exactly why we need the correct type of thread sealant I referred to in post #16 along with my statements regarding aged parts.

The flange surface will never seal correctly against the surface on the cylinder head shown in the photo. The proper sealant I mentioned and torque value used will fix this with confidence and a proven track record on numerous motorcycles.

I hope this helps,

Duke Kleman

I'm not familiar with Loctite 565, Duke!

What's its maximum temp?

....Cotten
PS: As I previously posted, if you achieve a mechanical seal, it doesn't prove your goober worked.

PPS: Forgive me for asking, but what appliance did you use to put 40 ft-lbs upon a nipple with no hex?

Thanks in advance as always!

[MarkLindyHugo]

Just jumping in, was recently pointed to this appliance previously unknown to me: Colony 2763-5 intake manifold nipple installation tool

[T. Cotten]

Unknown to me too, Mark!

I viewed it upon ebay, and recognized the anvil design, although I best liked mine to squeeze the rivet head outward with a cam action from a wrench.

NPLANVIL.jpg

So let me guess; the puck goes against the nipple face while it is screwed into the cup thingy.
A centerbolt holds tension upon it, as it is screwed (and torqued) firmly into the head.

Then, after goobers have cured, the center screw can be loosened, and hopefully the cup unscrews without disturbing the nipple.

Then the anvil is applied for perhaps an allen screw?

Uh oh, Tedd has knockoffs already? Hey look! Colony alone has fifteen hundred in stock!

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Cotten,
The advertised temperature range for 565: -65F to +300F
That means it performs yet out side those boundaries.
Screenshot_20260414-043807.png
A better view can be found at:

datasheets.tdx.henkel.com/LOCTITE-565--en_GL.pdf

All the tools I use to do the repair are shown in the previous post #10

I hope this helps,

Duke Kleman

[T. Cotten]

300°F might do for an OHV, Duke.

But we need another hundred degrees to be safe for a Flatty.

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Cotten,

As stated above in post #35, it operates outside its advertised boundaries. It is commonly found that most products operate outside of advertised boundaries. Disclaimers...
Your climate, riding style (traffic and idling) , ignition timing and fuel calibration play a large role in temperature. Another reason to have the proper sealant .
NOTE: Loctite 567 goes to 400F
I have not used or tested the 567 so I can't make the claims I make using 565 for well over 20 years...

I will share this free information as well, when thermocouples are attached to the intake fitting area we are discussing, you don't see anywhere near 300 degrees. The intake port is cooling constantly from CFM, Air speed exchange rate coupled with the cooling of gasoline.

I Hope this helps,

Duke Kleman

[T. Cotten]

Its not a great pic, Duke,

But here's a cast iron manifold that actually turned peacock blue from heat, at the cold end.

MANIBLUE.jpg

Pretty sure it exceeded four hundred!

We need all the safety margin we can get.

...Cotten
PS: Before I learned of PEEK, I cut some intake seals for my OHV from "high temp" nylon, spec'd at over three hundred.

It extruded long before it got that hot!

[dukekleman]

Cotten,
That is interesting and not good. What discoveries were made in that particular scenario? Something was very unhappy!

I have a 1947 WL that I'm working on for someone. The owner bought it bidding on line. It was advertised at the auction he bought from as fully restored by a certified Harley Davidson mechanic.
It has 253 miles on it and turns out to need a lot of sorting out!
Anyhow you should see the heat in the cylinders from just 253 miles. I've seen a lot of interesting things over my years but this one is at the top for the moment. So many things were found incorrect so far to lead up to this heat issue.
I've learned it's seldon one thing to blame for the issues.

Duke Kleman

[T. Cotten]

Cotten,
That is interesting and not good. What discoveries were made in that particular scenario? Something was very unhappy!

I have a 1947 WL that I'm working on for someone. The owner bought it bidding on line. It was advertised at the auction he bought from as fully restored by a certified Harley Davidson mechanic.
It has 253 miles on it and turns out to need a lot of sorting out!
Anyhow you should see the heat in the cylinders from just 253 miles. I've seen a lot of interesting things over my years but this one is at the top for the moment. So many things were found incorrect so far to lead up to this heat issue.
I've learned it's seldon one thing to blame for the issues.

Duke Kleman

Let's get back to goobers, Duke,

We want one even if HD didn't use one, apparently. Here is an NOS WLA assembly supplied with nipples.



(It is a mystery how the nipples were to be torqued or riveted in the field.)

We should focus upon a mechanical seal first, and then hope any sealer comforts any shortcomings.

The 'Seal-Lock' cited in the VI article is phenomenal, but tricky enough and expensive enough to seek something more accessible for everybody.
'JBWeld' proved itself, however ever-changing fuels require a long cure for certainty.
Since we are actually trying to augment the mechanical seal, why not use a traditional silk thread for a sealer substrate? So I websearched silk heat resistance, and found it is considered "flammable", but wool is "flame resistant".

My yarn is a bit thick.

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Cotten,

Quotes:

(It is a mystery how the nipples were to be torqued or riveted in the field.)

Unfortunately, I was never given an opportunity to ask my Grandfather if such a repair was ever required in the field during WWII when he rode his WLA during those times. I'm guessing leaky intake seals weren't on their minds...

Quotes:

(We should focus upon a mechanical seal first, and then hope any sealer comforts any shortcomings)

In post #16, I speak to this subject and it's down falls 70+ - 100 years later.
Affordably, how would you suggest reconditioning the parts for a proper mechanical seal?

Duke

[T. Cotten]

Cotten,

Quotes:

(It is a mystery how the nipples were to be torqued or riveted in the field.)

Unfortunately, I was never given an opportunity to ask my Grandfather if such a repair was ever required in the field during WWII when he rode his WLA during those times. I'm guessing leaky intake seals weren't on their minds...

Quotes:

(We should focus upon a mechanical seal first, and then hope any sealer comforts any shortcomings)

In post #16, I speak to this subject and it's down falls 70+ - 100 years later.
Affordably, how would you suggest reconditioning the parts for a proper mechanical seal?

Duke

I read somewhere, Duke,

The life expectancy of a motorcycle was a matter of days, whereas a jeep was expected to last a few weeks.

We must ask why tens of thousands of replacement parts were produced and packaged?

Sadly, I have posted my techniques like pearls before swine for decades, and obvious nobody noticed.

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Cotten,

(Sadly, I have posted my techniques like pearls before swine for decades, and obvious nobody noticed)

My apologies, I don't know where to read about them. However I would be interested in doing so if you can point me in the right direction/location.

Thanks in advance,
Duke

[T. Cotten]

Cotten,

(Sadly, I have posted my techniques like pearls before swine for decades, and obvious nobody noticed)

My apologies, I don't know where to read about them. However I would be interested in doing so if you can point me in the right direction/location.

Thanks in advance,
Duke

I guess you had to be there, Duke.

Uncounted forums trolled or banned me off outright, and I am only still here on the AMCA forum because it is moderated with minimum bias; I shall support this forum as long as it is as civil as I am...

The most recent forum update really improved the search function button to where the rest of it might be justified;
You will have to play with it of course, but it lets you screen for my posts with specified terms, although that may miss valuable posts from others.

My business is dead, waiting for the vultures to circle, so I am happy to answer any questions at all,

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Cotten,

Two very dear and influential Industry famous friends of mine, one past away now and the other gratefully here both said to me one day...

"What are you going to do with your knowledge, take it to your grave?"

They are the ones that convinced me to become a Technical Trainer in this Industry and pass on the knowledge NOT found in service manuals and books necessarily...

I use to hold so many technical items closely guarded, like secrets, now I pass them on openly and willing to shops that are new to the motorcycle world. I also spend a lot of time, even odd hours of the day trying to assist on here. That is one reason I decided to join this group, I wanted to help! If possible...

I have a very curious mindset, which has led me to testing so many things and of course learning from those tests and data.

With that said, I would really enjoy reading what you have experienced with resurrection of the mechanical sealing ability of these flanges. Short of full welding and machining the cylinder head. I'll search and see what I can find.

Thank you,

Duke Kleman