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  • #46
    Originally posted by Iacovos View Post
    This is fully closed and fully opened

    when the disc is closed is it normal to have the gap with the idle screw all the way backed ouf?

    When the disc is fully opened the lever is on the carb body stop
    With the idle screw backed out, Jack,

    The disc should close completely against the bore wall at the idle bleeds. With the bleed plug removed, the disc should be visible in the middle of the idle slot:

    DISKBLED.jpg
    (Model shown is other than M74B, but the position is the same.)

    The idle screw, when turned in to slightly open the disc for initial starting, becomes the 'closing' stop.

    I must note that to inspect for daylight around the disc, the choke must open; I inspected with even the venturi removed for certainty.

    ....Cotten
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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    • #47
      Originally posted by T. Cotten View Post

      With the idle screw backed out, Jack,

      The disc should close completely against the bore wall at the idle bleeds. With the bleed plug removed, the disc should be visible in the middle of the idle slot:

      DISKBLED.jpg
      (Model shown is other than M74B, but the position is the same.)

      The idle screw, when turned in to slightly open the disc for initial starting, becomes the 'closing' stop.

      I must note that to inspect for daylight around the disc, the choke must open; I inspected with even the venturi removed for certainty.

      ....Cotten
      Well noted! Thanks for your reply Cotten!

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      • #48
        The “damn” thing fired up on the first go!! This 64 did not run for 10 years now!

        Big Thanks for all the input for the linkert rebuild! Much appreciated everyone!

        No gas leaks (was worried as was my first carb rebuild …..)

        Oil pressure switch not working (had to check oil circulation hemce the seat being up)
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 1 photos.
        Last edited by Iacovos; 04-04-2025, 01:43 PM.

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        • #49
          QUESTION FOR KNOWLEDGE:
          Upon rebuilding an M74B if the venturi is stuck in the carb bore and one does not remove it (or fix it being stuck) will it cause any problems with the running / starting etc ?
          What are the consequences?
          Why go to the point of pressing it out (by force). Also i read about a "light gap".
          I have never got my head around this and could not find an answer in the forum
          THANKS

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Iacovos View Post
            QUESTION FOR KNOWLEDGE:
            Upon rebuilding an M74B if the venturi is stuck in the carb bore and one does not remove it (or fix it being stuck) will it cause any problems with the running / starting etc ?
            What are the consequences?
            Why go to the point of pressing it out (by force). Also i read about a "light gap".
            I have never got my head around this and could not find an answer in the forum
            THANKS
            Did the main nozzle come out easily, Jack?

            Fuel residues can combine with moisture to 'cement things together, but disassembly is manditory for cleaning the 'air correction' chamber (extreme example shown

            SNDYVNT.jpg

            It is common that once the 'crust' is removed, original venturies will be quite loose, and show daylight around them;

            DAYLIT88.jpg

            CLNYVENT.jpg

            Most break loose with penetrant and a heat lamp, but I've had plenty, especially Scheblers, that sounded like a firecracker in the sixty-ton press.


            ....Cotten
            AMCA #776
            Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

            Comment

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