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1941 FL Fuel Shut-off

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  • #16
    Originally posted by RichO View Post
    That's all well and good Tom if one of the issues isn't something went between the two and scored the seat.
    If you need a whole new assembly, Go for it Rich!

    Most of us like to fix what we got;
    Five minutes on a lathe does wonders for the vast majority, I assure you.

    If your seat is that tragic, you could always do a flat-cut on the seat with a stone or endmill to relieve the damage, but I've never had the need.
    (Once, however, I did encounter one that leaked around the seat insert. Diabolical.)

    ...Cotten
    PS: Carl certainly deserves an applaud for providing hardware for those who need a bolt-on replacement assembly, particularly in light of the horrible quality of Tedd's!
    I have been a customer of Carl's, and he of I, for a long, long time.

    PPS: PEEK for sale. PEEK for sale. Get it before it goes on ebay...
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 10-09-2017, 01:38 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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    • #17
      The latest from Carls is different.The one I got before that looked like a modified tedds.the hole for the reserve was higher than OEM on the Tedds one.The new one is in OEM location.The Tedds has a nylon seat.Do not overtighten for best results.I tested several recently with low air pressure under water,the new one from Carl barely needed tightening an held very nice.Looks nice also

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      • #18
        By the way Folks,

        I've been cutting the pesky 62085-40 petcock seals from PEEK for years. And viton 62094-40 top seals too.

        Sorry for the shameless self-promotion, especially since I sold out of them at Davenport!

        ....Cotten
        AMCA #776
        Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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        • #19
          Cotten,

          I like the idea of touching the tips on the lathe. How about the length of the rod? When my shut-off is completely shut, the top of the knob is flush with the top of the rod. Will the rod have enough length to seal again? I assume so, but what can I expect with regard to the top knobs?

          Thanks,
          Sam
          Last edited by eubanks; 10-09-2017, 03:49 PM.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by eubanks View Post
            Cotten,

            I like the idea of touching the tips on the lathe. How about the length of the rod? When my shut-off is completely shut, the top of the knob is flush with the top of the rod. Will the rod have enough length to seal again? I assume so, but what can I expect with regard to the top knobs?

            Thanks,
            Sam
            Sam!

            As always, you are at the mercy of your own observations.
            (Without it in my hands I have no clue, and that's just another reason why I am turning away new accounts.)
            I've never encountered an issue, but that doesn't mean it couldn't happen,.. if you really have a heavy cut with the lathe!

            The problem wouldn't be the fit of the knob to the rod, as that doesn't change. But bottoming out the knob on the 62091-40 seal cap is possible, I 'spose.
            Particularly if your 62085-40 seals are too fat (I used fat Linkert bowlnut crushwashers for years, no problem..), but more likely if there really is an issue, the tanks have been distorted in a repair, or attempt to align the petcock. ('65s suffered most.)

            Good luck!

            ...Cotten
            PS: I am reminded Folks,..
            That after cutting the tip, I would always tighten the seat upon the rod firmly with socket a few times, while held in the chuck.
            This usually formed the seat satisfactorily.
            Last edited by T. Cotten; 10-10-2017, 10:40 AM.
            AMCA #776
            Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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