Frame Restoration

[Steve Little]

axle carrier 021.JPGI have run an electrode weld along the area where the strengthening rib is missing.
The next pic is after a bit of linishing

[Steve Little]

As always, we checked the engine decks and the angle of the seatpost tube in relation to the rear engine deck to ensure it was within factory specification. We performed a minor adjustment on the rear deck and called the job complete.

The customer picked the frame up yesterday. I wasnt here so I didnt get to meet him, but the report from one of the guys who works for me, was that he was very happy with the frame.

[Steve Little]

New Jig

I designed a new jig and it is ready for its maiden voyage. Wanna have a guess at what its use is?

[Steve Little]

Over 100 people have viewed it and no guesses? If I give you a clue, it could be construed that I,m steering you.

[bselph]

Front forks/trees?

[ricmoran]

Checking the steering head alignment to the 2 front down tubes.

Steve, I wish you were closer, I have a frame in need of repair and your work looks to be excellent!

[Steve Little]

Bob and Ric, you are right.
Straightening a springer fork is a job I have never had a go at.
I have three springers that need checking. And I also have a 46 springer that I bought at Davenport 3 years ago that has one rear leg that I can see needs adjustment, so I have been thinking about doing it since I bought that springer. I know!!...I'm a slow mover... but I like to think things through.

This jig is at the stage that I can use it, but since I started working on this springer yesterday, I can see that I might manufacture a couple more attachments for it.
I printed off the 1/2 page instruction from my HD workshop manual.
They clearly write that it is a rudimentary method of alignment for "emergency repair only"

Does anyone have an original 1936-1940 workshop manual?
I would like to know if it has anything written about fork straighten and alignment?
Anyway... into the job.

[Steve Little]

I dutifully read the 33 lines of instruction (that was hard work, as I dislike reading instructions) and ordered in the 7/16" and 5/16 round silver steel.
I turned down the end of the 7/16" to fit in the steering dampner nut. Perfect! Then I set it all up like they say in the manual. Then I found the whitest dust coat I could find, a set of horn rim glasses, and sqauted down and gave that springer my best intense look, (like the guy in the picture of the manual). Nothing worked, until I realised that I had not jutted my jaw out like him. So a little more jaw jutting and it came to me.... I need to be more serious or this springer isnt going to get straightened. I tried to scan the picture of the guy but I cant work out the scanner at the moment. If someone else is more adept at it, load up a picture...its comical.

[Steve Little]

I followed the HD method to the letter, screw steering dampener nut into springer. Insert rod through bottom of springer up through nut.
Measure from edge of rod to the tip of each springer spear.
The measurement HD has listed is 3.703” from the edge of the rod to the inside face of each spear.
My springer measures 3.867” on the right side and 3.977” on the left.
Twisted spear ends 005.JPG
Twisted spear ends 004.JPG
The flattened ends of the spears where out in both directions. Rule on flattened face of spear, Square on washground surface of jig. The runout is easily visible.

Twisted spear ends 007.JPG Twisted spear ends 008.JPG
This method was achieved by placing the square on the wash ground bed of the jig, with the blade of the square on the face of the spear. The white paper behind each job is a common way to better see a gap between two straight surfaces.

[Steve Little]

I decided to address the twist in the spear ends, rather than the aligment issue.
The twist in the spear ends is probably been there since original construction.

On a side note, (as a manufacturer of frame parts myself) I noticed the the pressing on the end of the spears has the same offset. Meaning HD or whoever HD subcontarcted construction of the spears out to, did not have a left and right die for pressing the flattened section on the end of the spears. I will take a picture of this later and post it.

I believe that a lot of pressure will be involved in twisting these ends straight so I will do it first so as not to upset and other adjustments.
Twisted spear ends 013.JPG Twisted spear ends 009.JPG
It took a lot of psi to make these move. The sprears on all springers are chrome moly and if you have ever tried to form this stuff you will know it is god awful to work with.
They eventually came around to my way of thinking

[Steve Little]

These pictures show the pressed end section of the spears. The early spears 1936-1940 had a forward sweep in the rear leg, meaning that there was a left and right side to this production of springer.

On the contrary, the 1941-1946 production “Inline” springer has a universal spear. Meaning it can be used on the left or right side."Perhaps the reason for this was refining the production cost"

About 25 years ago I was vending at the Ballarat swap meet here in Australia. A guy walked into my site and was looking at my frame parts and casually asks if I have seen the guy a few isles away who has the new springer legs. I didn’t understand what it was that he was trying to tell me and it took a few more minutes of discussion before I understood.
I ran off in a cloud of dust in the direction he had pointed and hunted them babies down. It turns out they came from the Ballarat munitions storage. Along with a heap of other NOS stuff, radios, camp stretchers, tents, gas masks, etc etc.
I came back into my site clutching these 3 spears like they where my first born.
I kept them for about 10 years and then bartered them to one of my mechanics, who had been trying to get them and a rusted out offset springer out of me..
I didn’t know the difference between a forward sweep and inline spear back in those days so I don’t know what they where. We agreed on a weeks wages. He was happy and I never sell anything so I needed therapy.

[exeric]

This is a great series Steve, thanks for sharing it, and the trouble you have taken to post such graphic photos.

[Steve Little]

Thanks Eric. I,m away for the weekend so I won't be able to post any more pictures until Monday. Does anyone know if Harley produced a workshop manual for the period of 1936-1940??

[Chris Haynes]

Thanks Eric. I,m away for the weekend so I won't be able to post any more pictures until Monday. Does anyone know if Harley produced a workshop manual for the period of 1936-1940??

I have never seen or heard of one. The first Knuck/U model manual I know of was the one that John Nowak wrote in 1947.

[Steve Little]

Thanks Chris. In my dalliances on eBay, one of the items I have kept a sharp eye out for was a original early workshop manual that would compliment my 37, but have never seen one.
I just assumed no one let them go or they where super rare. I guess I,ll stop looking now.

My original intent of asking about early workshop manuals was to find out if it had information about straightening the early style "forward sweep" springers.
What about Shop Dopes, or factory literature like they had for official frame straightening centers.
Has anyone seen official literature on straightening any of the three styles of springers?

On a side issue Chris, who was/is John Nowak?