New Find!!!

[sirhrmechanic]

Co

A small tip oxy acetylene torch and "fast focused heat" to the screw head to a slightly dull red color then allow it to cool down a few moments before trying to loosen it is a good process. Care must be taken aluminum melts faster than steel turning red.
joe

^^^ This.

Also, invest in a set of reverse drills. They are definitely your friend.

Rapping on the screws is a great thing. Bucking block as mentioned above is a very good thing.

Mostly patience, patience and more patience. You can worry out a screw with time. You can't worry out a broken casting.

Cheers,

Sirhr

[c.o.]

Cory, I too just stumbled on to this thread, What a find, congratulations. Absoltely super you were able to aquire the 14 engine. Like others have stated, it is now with the right guy. I too just picked up a 14 motor. Been in my niegborhood for 45 years and the fella gave up with it. He is too busy developing a subdivision so he will be just fine when he cashes out on that endevour. My 14 engine has a busted off timeing gear case but I was able to finally make a deal with him after three years of trying. He too sent a lot of his stash to the dump, I only wish I could have checked that stuff before he rid of it. My ser number has the "H" at the end of the 4 digit number, no prefex letters. The early 14 motors had 8 lug crakcase stud holes, mine is the later 14 with nine. Your number is higher than mine so should also be the late 9 stud caseing. I didnt check the pics close enough yet....Joe

Joe! Good to hear you finally got your hands on that engine. Your assumption that the engine I have is the 9 stud version would be correct.

^^^ This.

Also, invest in a set of reverse drills. They are definitely your friend.

Rapping on the screws is a great thing. Bucking block as mentioned above is a very good thing.

Mostly patience, patience and more patience. You can worry out a screw with time. You can't worry out a broken casting.

Cheers,

Sirhr

Sirhr,

This is one of the reasons this forum is so great. I am now armed with some good choices for freeing these rusty screws. At this point I'm still hitting it with the spray lube. I'm not going to get my undies in a bunch over this one. A broken casting would not be worth it. Thanks for the additional input!!!

[partshunt]

Cory, I spent a grand on this 14 motor just on small bits that were damaged or missing. All small bits but I dont really plan to build a bike. The two speed hub alone is around 4500 bucks. Any originals are probably just as hi in price if any are left that is. Needs a lot of pieces, no frame, no sheet metal, nothing, all we both have is the engine. Its a good start but a long long road to start up hey?. Keep worrying them screws and bolts, take your time. My engine looked bad but you know, it cleaned up nice. Bores are still std and all matching numbers are there where they should be. Good luck tearing it down, some good advice here on the forum.........Joe

[gary.h]

got your email cory! and congrats to you man all the years talking about finding somthing like this has finally happened,i can imagine the pulse rate was a little high goin to pick it up eh?
gonna ride out when i get a chance and meet this motor in person....
hey i wonder if this means im gonna stumble across a 28 jdh soon? ( LOL)

[c.o.]

Cory, I spent a grand on this 14 motor just on small bits that were damaged or missing. All small bits but I dont really plan to build a bike. The two speed hub alone is around 4500 bucks. Any originals are probably just as hi in price if any are left that is. Needs a lot of pieces, no frame, no sheet metal, nothing, all we both have is the engine. Its a good start but a long long road to start up hey?. Keep worrying them screws and bolts, take your time. My engine looked bad but you know, it cleaned up nice. Bores are still std and all matching numbers are there where they should be. Good luck tearing it down, some good advice here on the forum.........Joe

Joe! I haven't thought too far ahead other than a little daydreaming. What are the odds either of us will find a rolling chassis? Man, you ended up with a standard bore eh? What did the cylinder walls look like?

got your email cory! and congrats to you man all the years talking about finding somthing like this has finally happened,i can imagine the pulse rate was a little high goin to pick it up eh?
gonna ride out when i get a chance and meet this motor in person....
hey i wonder if this means im gonna stumble across a 28 jdh soon? ( LOL)

Thanks man, it'll be here when you show up. Keep looking... you never know when a JDH is gonna knock you over the head....

[partshunt]

Cory, the bores are nice to go as is. There is about .004" wear down the central part of the bores, nothing to worry about with new cast rings. At the bottom of one bore there is a coupla vertical short scratches from the original pistons with the bottom skirt ring. However, it looks like they were replaced at one time with pistons haveing rings above the pin only. So those marks have no effect on the piston skirt clearance or otherwise. There is some fins that need repair but thats just time consumeing. I'd rather be welding fins on my barrels than go with out any barrels at all. All the horizonal fins are fine. except around the exhaust ports.............Joe

[c.o.]

Joe!

You said you have new cast rings? Do you have a source you can share for them? Your engine sounds like it suffered a little less than mine...

[partshunt]

Cory, All I have ever done is take the dimentions of the rings and call Hastings or even like call Lordco. Be sure to specify cast, not chrome. Also, Specify you want LOW TENSION rings. I never tried Lordco yet but in the past I have had the Auto Engine rebuild shops look em up and order them for me.They should have ring listings in thier books. They always need rings for odd engines once in a while that come in. Some farmers bring in some pretty old engines out of old tractors or other impements kinda like us vintage nuts...Joe

[c.o.]

Thanks Joe!!! I have another project that I may need to source rings for.... now I know where to get them!!! I've got a feeling that the rings on this '14 could be fused to the bore. Time will tell....

[partshunt]

Cory, You could nurse that stuck cylinder with something like WD40 thru the sprkplug hole. Oh! That presiouse spark plug, dont damage it when removing, its one of a kind. LOL. I have heard where you can fill the cylinder with grease and fit a grease fitting to a modified spark plug and then just pump it with a grease gun to load it and force it to move. I think I would not force it too much as the piston could just break. However, If it had pressure on it for a while, then come by and represurize it few times, it mite break free one day, But, so far, I have not had to go that far to break em loose. Usually WD40 in there a few days is enough, just top it up once in a while...Joe

[Tommo]

Cast iron piston in a cast iron bore, plain ordinary household vinegar.
Once you've got the vinegar in the bore heat the cylinder with a heat gun or hair dryer and let it cool. GENTLE HEAT no gas torches.
Repeat the process several times being sure to add vinegar each time.
You'll be surprised with the results.
Don't use it on an alloy piston

[c.o.]

Joe! I will use the utmost care with that spark plug. I recognize now that it's a collectors item... Thanks to both you and Tommo for the suggestions. I'll report back when I get it apart.

[HarleyCreation]

Cory,

Super find!

My 1914 data says that your "H-7004-H" motor might have come from either of these two road models:

1914 Model-10E, Twin 8hp, Chain, Magneto, Single-Speed

1914 Model-10F, Twin 8hp, Chain, Magneto Two-Speed

But that's not the whole story!

That first "H" prefix letter is NOT a mistake. That's factory. Reading this topic, it appears that some 1914 motors also had an "F" prefix or no letter prefix at all.

Unfortunately, I don't have letter prefix data for 1914, but in 1915 H-D used these prefix letters: "L", "LM", "M", "T", and "LT." But some 1915 motor numbers had no letter prefix at all.

These prefix letters were used to describe different motor variations (not different bike models), such as regular road motors, "track" motors, "fast" motors, and "truck" (forecar) motors. And also whether they ran Bosch or Remy electrics. In 1915, the only motors without a letter prefix were single cylinder road models and single "fast" motors.

Probably 1914 was similar. The second "H" or suffix letter denotes the 1914 model year, while the first "H" prefix letter denotes some difference in the motor from other motors (i.e. different from "F" prefix or no prefix letter motors and maybe others).

But what were those motor differences in 1914?

We need more information. Were those "F" prefix 1914 motors you guys have seen singles or twins? Same for the no prefix 1914 motors: single or twin? Were any other prefix letters used in 1914? Also, was there a "fast" motor available in 1914? We know there were track motors, although it's not clear how they were marked. What possible motor variations in 1914 could account for the "F", "H", and no letter prefixes? Figure that out and we've nailed it.

To sum up, H-D needed to identify different motor variations by the VIN somehow, and the prefix letter (or lack of one) seems to be how they did it back then. Later they used a similar system by adding the letters to the end of the model series designation in the motor number: i.e. "W," "WL," "WLD," "WLDD," "WLDR", etc.

Don't you just love Harley-Davidson?

[c.o.]

Thanks Herb!! With any luck you can get the answers to your questions and we can all have 1914 figured out! For a company with so much exposure it still has it's fair share mysteries.

[DCoul]

Just came across this thread. Have you rebuilt this bike?