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[QUOTE=c.o.;121362]
It's a funny thing about scrap yards. I've heard many a story about them but have not been on the receiving end until now and that was still secondhand. A lot of yards up here won't let you wander around "shopping". A good friend of mine was in a big city yard one time and he asked the guy that ran one of the cranes if he had ever found any old motorcycle stuff over the years. The guy said "definitely". When asked what happened to it, he was told "It got scrapped like everything else"!
A good friend of mine lives in a small town about 50 miles west of here, there is a county transfer station / landfill outside of his town that he used to frequent several times per week. Yes, I said used to frequent. He got himself permanently banned, yes, banned from the county dump, under threat of prosecution if he returns. All for salvaging an old tin sign that was laying in the dirt next to a pile of scrap metal. Funny thing is that he tried to buy it but was told that once things pass through the gate they are off limits.
-MikeMike Carver
AMCA #3349
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Mike!!!
Banned from the dump??? He must be quite the offender.... I know I'd have been salvaging that tin sign as well!! There is a local fella here that had to ask the higher ups in the district for a letter. He got the letter and is free to search the bigger landfills and salvage as he sees fit. The only stipulation is he is not supposed to sell anything for profit. He picks up some pretty good stuff. Maybe your friend should try higher channels.Cory Othen
Membership#10953
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Alright.... a question for the folks that tear apart the early iron..... After two nights of slapping spray lube on the gear chest cover screws, I thought I'd make an attempt at breaking them loose. I got two to pop but the rest are hanging on tight!!! I don't want to mess them up if at all possible so what are the tricks???? Thanks in advance!Cory Othen
Membership#10953
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Hi Cory...Patience and more spray lube..I've had sucess with the old fashioned spring loaded hand impact driver. Lay the motor over and buck it up so the force of the impact bears directly on the screw.Grab the impact with your left hand and torque it
as hard as you can to unscrew and rap it with a ball peen. If it does'nt move, hitting harder is not better. More patience and spray lube.....Rod
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Cory, after you've sprayed the crap out of it get a brass or hard plastic hammer and tap around the screws for awhile......take a break and then come back and do it again. Sometimes if you try to give them a little tighten first and then attack them to loosen helps. But spray and tap and spray and tap and spray and tap. If no go make sure everything is dry and the lube has evaporated and try a little heat.
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Thank-you for the input fellas!!! Rod, I have one of those impact drivers in the toolbox but the handle has slipped and I haven't dealt with it yet. I guess now is the time!!! I had a flat bit connected to a ratchet and the first two loosened up pretty easy. The rest of them didn't budge. I didn't want to get carried away and strip the screw head so I sprayed them again and asked the question!!! These screws haven't had the easiest life and the slot is a little spread on some of them so patience is a must!!!! Dewey, I have used heat before in some situations but didn't know if it would work here. I guess if all else fails I'll give it a try. Thanks again guys!!!Cory Othen
Membership#10953
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Cory
Get an old screwdriver shaft or sharpen a piece of rod to correctly fit the screw head and put it into the screw slot and give it a good sharp rap on the end with a hammer.
It's no good hitting a screwdriver that still has it's handle on as all you do is drive the handle further onto the shaft, it's got to be steel on steel.
Some screwdrivers have the steel shaft right to the top so you can hit them but most don't.
Once you've given it a couple of decent hits then use an impact driver or a screwdriver to turn the screw out.Peter Thomson, a.k.a. Tommo
A.M.C.A. # 2777
Palmerston North, New Zealand.
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Originally posted by c.o. View PostAlright.... a question for the folks that tear apart the early iron..... After two nights of slapping spray lube on the gear chest cover screws, I thought I'd make an attempt at breaking them loose. I got two to pop but the rest are hanging on tight!!! I don't want to mess them up if at all possible so what are the tricks???? Thanks in advance!rob ronky #10507
www.diamondhorsevalley.com
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Originally posted by Tommo View PostCory
Get an old screwdriver shaft or sharpen a piece of rod to correctly fit the screw head and put it into the screw slot and give it a good sharp rap on the end with a hammer.
It's no good hitting a screwdriver that still has it's handle on as all you do is drive the handle further onto the shaft, it's got to be steel on steel.
Some screwdrivers have the steel shaft right to the top so you can hit them but most don't.
Once you've given it a couple of decent hits then use an impact driver or a screwdriver to turn the screw out.
It's great to hear from you!!! I'll give that a go tomorrow and with crossed fingers I'll have that cover off!!!! Thanks!!!!Cory Othen
Membership#10953
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Originally posted by rwm View Postsince nobody said it yet. " i can help you out. send it to me. i'll need to see the problem first hand. your pictures are not good enough. i'll take the screws out and mail them back to you. most likely the cases flywheels and cylinder are no good. i can save you on return shipping by keeping them. it' will cost about $5.00 to send your screws back. don't worry i'll cover it and if you ever get to philly you can buy me a beer for my help with the screws.Cory Othen
Membership#10953
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Cory
Use great caution when striking the gear chest screws, many gear chests have been broken just left of the engine case. If you must use impact, have a solid back up "bucking block" behind the area being shoked.
Yes agreed with Tommo, a steel screw driver shank in the slot of a screw struck with a ball peen hammer is your best "shock treatment" Be certain to back it up with solid secure bucking block immediately behind the area being struck and don't allow impact to stress the cover or chest.
A small tip oxy acetylene torch and "fast focused heat" to the screw head to a slightly dull red color then allow it to cool down a few moments before trying to loosen it is a good process. Care must be taken aluminum melts faster than steel turning red.
If you break a screw head worry not, a good TIG welder will be your best friend in extracting the screw by welding on the broken remaining screw and then backing it out. This process is simple and painless.
joeLast edited by Slojo; 06-03-2012, 10:58 PM.
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Hi Cory, I just came across this thread. Good for you. It's crazy sometimes how things work out. Now you got a project!
Slojo and Tommo are right. Just the other day I gave a tap to the screw that holds my float bowl cover on on the Mar Tan and the screw almost fell out it got so loose. I have also had good luck with impact-type screwdrivers especially when I was working on my BSA's. Worn out tips on the screwdrivers make the job much harder.
Dick
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Thanks for the tutorial Joe! I will take this slow and easy.... if I broke something, it would make for some colorful language and a general displeasant situation. Patience...patience...patience.... Having a peek inside this engine at the moment is just a curiousity thing as I have a couple of projects in front of it. Of utmost importance is my summer rider!!!
Hey Dick!!!! As you know I've been on the hunt for Wisconsin built machinery and this one practically landed on my lap! I gave up last night with the flat bit... partly because I heard a pop and I thought I broke the head off the screw. I was relieved when I saw it was just the bit that bust!!!Cory Othen
Membership#10953
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Cory, I too just stumbled on to this thread, What a find, congratulations. Absoltely super you were able to aquire the 14 engine. Like others have stated, it is now with the right guy. I too just picked up a 14 motor. Been in my niegborhood for 45 years and the fella gave up with it. He is too busy developing a subdivision so he will be just fine when he cashes out on that endevour. My 14 engine has a busted off timeing gear case but I was able to finally make a deal with him after three years of trying. He too sent a lot of his stash to the dump, I only wish I could have checked that stuff before he rid of it. My ser number has the "H" at the end of the 4 digit number, no prefex letters. The early 14 motors had 8 lug crakcase stud holes, mine is the later 14 with nine. Your number is higher than mine so should also be the late 9 stud caseing. I didnt check the pics close enough yet....JoeJoe AMCA# 3435
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