22JD Tear down!

[Robert Luland]

I found these on my data base. I don't remember were I got them. But the manifold appears to be painted not parkerized. Bob L

[Tommo]

I've seen both parkerised and painted and I've always thought that parkerised was original.
I got my box of manifolds out and had a good look at them and I still reckon parkerised.
Attached is a picture with a NOS early model nickel plated manifold and a NOS manifold nipple and nut for the fast motor engine sitting in front of my box of manifolds and associated bits.
It's a pity I don't have a NOS manifold like we're discussing but I don't.
On reading what I've posted earlier I see I made a mistake in saying the nut was parkerised when if fact it is nickeled.
Sorry about that.

[Robert Luland]

Pete, I've got to assume the washer on the left is for the idler gear. When I took the cam chest cover off, I laid face up not realizing the washers were stuck to it until I picked it up today. I found two more pictures today of orignal paint 22Jds and both of them had the manifold parkerized. Bob L

[Tommo]

Looks more like the one in the middle

[Tommo]

It should be 1 and 1/16 of an inch overall dia with a 11/16 of an inch bore.
The recess is 13/16 of an inch in dia and .076 of on inch deep.
Robert do you think this is of interest to others or should we be doing this via private e-mails?

[Robert Luland]

Peter, You are a man with a wealth of information on a subject matter that only a few possess. Information that is spars and hard to come by. On top of all that you're a good guy! I started this thread because I thought it would be fun to involve as many people as possible on this forum in this project. Not to mention it's been pretty dead around here lately, sort of liven things up a little per say and the fact that I have no clue of what I'm doing. I feel that every little facet of information that comes out of this thread will help the next guy down the road. Hell, I don't even have the bottom end apart yet and were on page #4. Just imagine how much information will be here by the time I get to the tail light ( Lol). It will be great to see how the whole project evolves out of just an engine bought on Fleese-Bay at the click of a buy it now. I will see this bike though to the last bolt and nut. I got credit cards ya know! Bob L

[exeric]

It's good stuff. Keep it going.

[Robert Luland]

I've been able to get most of the parts for the top end with the exception of one. The leather washers that go in the lower end of the intake push rod. Anyone here know of anybody reproducing them? My parts book has the original parts numbers which are useless. According to my 26 and up book the number transforms into #145-17. Thanks, Bob L

[rwm]

it's all good info and much needed.

[Tommo]

You guys are going to get sick of me.
That felt/leather washer is about 9/16 of an inch in dia with a 1/4 of an inch hole through it and about 3/32 of an inch thick.
I've got an old felt hat that I punch washers out of the brim. Works a treat for a lot of things.
Just be careful that you don't make the outside dia of the washer too big as the top hat washer that locates the pushrod in it's retaining nut has to be able to move to keep everything in line.
The bore of the nut is 5/8 of an inch and the tendency is to make the washer to fit that bore size and if you do you introduce a bind that you don't want.
I'm just wishing I had a better digital camera so I could post pictures of all this stuff.
Coming down from the top you'll have;
The top hat pushrod guide washer
The felt washer
A flat washer, 21/32 dia with a 5/16 hole
The spring
and finally the spring seating washer, that is slightly concave, 11/16 in dia with a 7/16 hole

[D.Mac]

Great thread, I hope to see it continue. I don't have a JD (maybe someday?), but I'm always interested in learning about any old bikes.
Doug.

[c.o.]

You guys are going to get sick of me.

Oh, I don't think so. We sit with baited breath for the next round of info. Tommo, you're a great help around here.

[Robert Luland]

Well I finally got some time to resume the tear down. Today I put the air wrench to the intake nipples and they came out quit easily. Now the only thing still stuck in the barrels are the exhaust valve guides. I came up with a new mode of attack on this one. I sat the barrels upright and put some grease on a couple of rubber plugs and jammed them into the exhaust nipple hole. Then I took a dental pick and scraped off any carbon that was around the top of the guide. Now I'm just going to fill the cavity with Kroil and the top of the guide will be submersed. Figure a week of that and some heat and hopefully they will say uncle. I all so found out that 8oz of Kroil doesn't go too far and ordered the gallon that I should ordered in the first place.
As you can see in the pic that I'm into the cam cavity. This motor was definitely never open since it left the factory. The smell is disgusting! I had a 1950 Cushman scooter when I was ten and it smelled the same way. It's something you never for get, 90 year old dinosaur poop. I measured the side play on the connecting rods at the lowest point and it was almost a 1/2". So guess that says it all.
Now for the next round of questions:
1. How are the wrist pins held in. I don't see any clip.
2. How does the relief lever thingy work?
3. Does anyone know of someone that can repair my circuit breaker. The little spring clip that holds down the points is broken off. I contacted Perry Ruiter and he doesn't do them and didn't recommend anyone ether.
Thanks guys for stick'en with this, Bob L

[Tommo]

Sorry about the photo quality. I'm going to have to get myself a better digital camera.
There's two pins not unlike a conventional split pin that goes through the piston boss and the corresponding hole in the gudgeon pin.
Access is by the holes provided in the piston skirt.
The pin has knurling just under the head that grips into the piston boss and can sometimes be difficult to remove.
I've found it a lot easier to do once you've split the flywheels and have each seperate rod assembly suitably held.
Attachment shows some nos gudgeon pin retaining pins.

[Robert Luland]

Cool! One down, now how does the Relief thingy work. Bob