“Coach” needed for 1943 WLA War-bike!

[T. Cotten]

The air filter is nice and clean No obstruction I can see. Nice pretty stainless steel wool looking stuff ! Put clean oil in it about 30 days or so ago. Had the float changed from cork to brass and I “ think” it’s indexed properly. As to a manifold wrench I’m thinking I could use a good mechanic to look at and kinda walk me through this journey. I had a decent guy but he’s closing up shop and moving on. ♂️

Brass floats don't float, Johnny!

Here's a jar of gas to prove it:

JARTEST3.jpg

Linkert never produced a brass float for Model M carburetors. They weigh three times as much as the carbs were designed to use.

And there is only one sure way to make certain that the float is not hanging up: Index the bowl upon the body, and turn the entire assembly upside-down, and suck upon the valve.

As I said in Post #2: "When all things are in order..."

....Cotten
PS: Stainless does not have the electrostatic properties that makes copper ideal for pulling dirt out of the air.

[Johnnyf]

I like the demonstration I did all that , however, and “ seemed” to respond properly to the suck/blow test. But I really like the Cotten float better no doubt about it

[PaulCDF]

Johnnyf

Here is a picture of my accumulation of manifold tools inspired by that Virtual Indian article.
I plan to buy myself a proper leak tester from Cotten for Christmas.

The "manifold wrench" on the Left (with 3 holes in the handle } started life as a big washer like its brother above, Careful cutting filing and aluminum body tape on jaws and it works well and is thinner than


"store-bought" one on the right.I found kids "Miracle bubbles" really works well for Manifold testing tools.jpg showing leaks. The small black plug lower right corner is start of what hopefully will be nipple leak tester. "Stay Calm and Carry on" (Maybe more appropriate under the British bike section),

[Johnnyf]

Cool tools! I’m not much of a fabricator but where can I get one of those housing cover that you use/have to attach to the manifold?

[EricOlson]

Cool tools! I’m not much of a fabricator but where can I get one of those housing cover that you use/have to attach to the manifold?

If you'd rather buy than build I think you can pick up one that should work at this site: https://pangorcycles.com/product/har...essure-tester/

Or this site: https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/colle...ke-leak-tester

[T. Cotten]

Lots of folks make them, Johnny!

Most folks carve their own.

Here's what I was selling at Davenport: Basically Harbor Freight regulator and air line fittings, shown with an ABS testplate, and a perforated rubber stopper.

TESTKIT.jpg

(Only a stopper can test the inlet nipples separately, which is a common problem with Harleys.)

Notice how it only uses a light vinyl tube to the test appliance, as heavy, inflexible hose can move the manifold while you are trying to find the 'sweet spot' where it seals (a serious concern with later O-ring designs).

....Cotten
PS: Notice the valve between regulator and tubing is a shirt-pocket air gun, but accepts the tubing perfectly.

PPS: You do not want a Schrader valve anywhere, as it would no longer be a constant, regulated air supply.

PPPS: Its only a suck test, Johnny... Blowing opens the valve. I like it to make a little pop when I pull my tongue off of it.
(Test the valve itself first of course, before testing the bowl indexing and float off-set. If the needle and seat do not seem perfect, set the needle within the seat, and then place the seat upon a firm surface, and whack the needle with a wooden screwdriver handle or whatever. Suck test and repeat if necessary.

Four fails,.. .. new ones are reasonable.)

[Johnnyf]

I couldn’t remember which way I did it!

[T. Cotten]

I couldn’t remember which way I did it!

Don't worry, Johnny,..

You shall have to do it again.

....Cotten

[Johnnyf]

. Just windy if there is a leak or leaks at the manifold what is the fix?

[T. Cotten]

The bubble-test, Johnny,...

Tells you exactly where you have a leak, and an idea how much.

If its just the manifold, then it can be re-conditioned with a modern material called PEEK instead of brass.

But you must remove the leaky manifold to then test the inlet nipples separately. (Repairing those is most difficult.)

....Cotten
PS: If you do not get the tiniest blister of foam at over-kill-constant-regulated one atmosphere (~14.7psi), don't fix it. Don't even take it apart!

[Johnnyf]

Soooooooooooooo! I still need one of those manifold leak kits as well as the float depicted in T Cottons demonstration! But the real update is that I think we fixed the problem ……………l took the War Bike to a highly recommended mechanic who diagnosed the problem(s) and we got em fixed……….I think

[Johnnyf]

So……..the mechanic saw what was happening in terms of the bike starting but not running. “ it’s not getting gas…..” he says……….well I went through what had been previously done and as T Cotten suspected…………. I told him I had replaced the original float ( cork) with a brass one. Well to spare you the long drawn out story he pulled the bowl removed the new brass float shook it and then gave it to me and I shook it. Naturally, there was fluid/gas IN the damn brass float. ( a series of profanity emanated from me and I just shook my head). So he emptied the float used a couple of mini- washers and some other magic bubblegum and now the float works as it should and actually stops the gas from leaking all over the damn place, as well as allowing gas to flow into the carb and make the “ magic happen”! He used a couple of other washers where they should’ve been and some more”dope” and put it all l back together. We filled it up with fuel and it ran like a champ. Took it for a test ride for the first time in about 2 mos. I figure I need to have a better float like what T Cotten was demonstrating and have that on hand if and/or when the brass one fails (again). So I LEARNED many things things between all of you here and from watching the step by step diagnosis and explanation. I “ knew” it was something simple and or stupid but didn’t know what or why. I suppose I refused to accept that the new float failed and I never would’ve diagnosed why it failed without an experienced mechanic to walk it through. Many thanks to all of you here and your interest and patience. Regards to all, JohnnyF

[PaulCDF]

Johnnyf

Thanks for the update. Good to hear you are up and running.
Good instincts: Get that modern float.
Enjoy that bike.

[T. Cotten]

Johnnyf

Thanks for the update. Good to hear you are up and running.
Good instincts: Get that modern float.
Enjoy that bike.

Please get THE modern float, Johnny!

The latest, most fuel-resistant material is only available machined at this time, not molded.

Your mechanic's instincts are not so good, as a sunken float does not starve for fuel, but floods it. (If it still was somehow running lean, you've got a helluva manifold leak!)

Everybody can always post me direct at liberty@npoint.net,

.....Cotten

[PaulCDF]

Johnnyf
I did not mean to sound glib or dismissive.
I just know it is a THRILL to be able to ride after 2 months.

Cotten is right, of course, to encourage manifold testing . IMO He is THE EXPERT on this.

Did your mechanic do anything with the manifold or the manifold nuts?
You mentioned some "dope" and I just wondered if it may have been some external (temporary) sealant?