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“Coach” needed for 1943 WLA War-bike!

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Originally posted by PaulCDF View Post
    Johnnyf
    ..... IMO He is THE EXPERT on this...
    Thanks for the kind words, Paul!...

    But there are no experts.

    I am only a student, and learn from everyones' experiences.

    Especially the mistakes.

    ....Cotten

    Leave a comment:


  • PaulCDF
    replied
    Johnnyf
    I did not mean to sound glib or dismissive.
    I just know it is a THRILL to be able to ride after 2 months.

    Cotten is right, of course, to encourage manifold testing . IMO He is THE EXPERT on this.

    Did your mechanic do anything with the manifold or the manifold nuts?
    You mentioned some "dope" and I just wondered if it may have been some external (temporary) sealant?

    Leave a comment:


  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Originally posted by PaulCDF View Post
    Johnnyf

    Thanks for the update. Good to hear you are up and running.
    Good instincts: Get that modern float.
    Enjoy that bike.
    Please get THE modern float, Johnny!

    The latest, most fuel-resistant material is only available machined at this time, not molded.

    Your mechanic's instincts are not so good, as a sunken float does not starve for fuel, but floods it. (If it still was somehow running lean, you've got a helluva manifold leak!)

    Everybody can always post me direct at liberty@npoint.net,

    .....Cotten

    Last edited by T. Cotten; 09-13-2021, 09:36 AM.

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  • PaulCDF
    replied
    Johnnyf

    Thanks for the update. Good to hear you are up and running.
    Good instincts: Get that modern float.
    Enjoy that bike.

    Leave a comment:


  • Johnnyf
    replied
    So……..the mechanic saw what was happening in terms of the bike starting but not running. “ it’s not getting gas…..” he says……….well I went through what had been previously done and as T Cotten suspected…………. I told him I had replaced the original float ( cork) with a brass one. Well to spare you the long drawn out story he pulled the bowl removed the new brass float shook it and then gave it to me and I shook it. Naturally, there was fluid/gas IN the damn brass float. ( a series of profanity emanated from me and I just shook my head). So he emptied the float used a couple of mini- washers and some other magic bubblegum and now the float works as it should and actually stops the gas from leaking all over the damn place, as well as allowing gas to flow into the carb and make the “ magic happen”! He used a couple of other washers where they should’ve been and some more”dope” and put it all l back together. We filled it up with fuel and it ran like a champ. Took it for a test ride for the first time in about 2 mos. I figure I need to have a better float like what T Cotten was demonstrating and have that on hand if and/or when the brass one fails (again). So I LEARNED many things things between all of you here and from watching the step by step diagnosis and explanation. I “ knew” it was something simple and or stupid but didn’t know what or why. I suppose I refused to accept that the new float failed and I never would’ve diagnosed why it failed without an experienced mechanic to walk it through. Many thanks to all of you here and your interest and patience. Regards to all, JohnnyF

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  • Johnnyf
    replied
    Soooooooooooooo! I still need one of those manifold leak kits as well as the float depicted in T Cottons demonstration! But the real update is that I think we fixed the problem ……………l took the War Bike to a highly recommended mechanic who diagnosed the problem(s) and we got em fixed……….I think

    Leave a comment:


  • T. Cotten
    replied
    The bubble-test, Johnny,...

    Tells you exactly where you have a leak, and an idea how much.

    If its just the manifold, then it can be re-conditioned with a modern material called PEEK instead of brass.

    But you must remove the leaky manifold to then test the inlet nipples separately. (Repairing those is most difficult.)

    ....Cotten
    PS: If you do not get the tiniest blister of foam at over-kill-constant-regulated one atmosphere (~14.7psi), don't fix it. Don't even take it apart!
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 09-08-2021, 04:53 PM.

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  • Johnnyf
    replied
    . Just windy if there is a leak or leaks at the manifold what is the fix?

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Originally posted by Johnnyf View Post
    I couldn’t remember which way I did it!
    Don't worry, Johnny,..

    You shall have to do it again.

    ....Cotten

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  • Johnnyf
    replied
    I couldn’t remember which way I did it!

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  • T. Cotten
    replied
    Lots of folks make them, Johnny!

    Most folks carve their own.

    Here's what I was selling at Davenport: Basically Harbor Freight regulator and air line fittings, shown with an ABS testplate, and a perforated rubber stopper.

    TESTKIT.jpg

    (Only a stopper can test the inlet nipples separately, which is a common problem with Harleys.)

    Notice how it only uses a light vinyl tube to the test appliance, as heavy, inflexible hose can move the manifold while you are trying to find the 'sweet spot' where it seals (a serious concern with later O-ring designs).

    ....Cotten
    PS: Notice the valve between regulator and tubing is a shirt-pocket air gun, but accepts the tubing perfectly.

    PPS: You do not want a Schrader valve anywhere, as it would no longer be a constant, regulated air supply.

    PPPS: Its only a suck test, Johnny... Blowing opens the valve. I like it to make a little pop when I pull my tongue off of it.
    (Test the valve itself first of course, before testing the bowl indexing and float off-set. If the needle and seat do not seem perfect, set the needle within the seat, and then place the seat upon a firm surface, and whack the needle with a wooden screwdriver handle or whatever. Suck test and repeat if necessary.

    Four fails,.. .. new ones are reasonable.)
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 09-08-2021, 03:42 PM.

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  • EricOlson
    replied
    Originally posted by Johnnyf View Post
    Cool tools! I’m not much of a fabricator but where can I get one of those housing cover that you use/have to attach to the manifold?
    If you'd rather buy than build I think you can pick up one that should work at this site: https://pangorcycles.com/product/har...essure-tester/

    Or this site: https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/colle...ke-leak-tester

    Leave a comment:


  • Johnnyf
    replied
    Cool tools! I’m not much of a fabricator but where can I get one of those housing cover that you use/have to attach to the manifold?

    Leave a comment:


  • PaulCDF
    replied
    Johnnyf

    Here is a picture of my accumulation of manifold tools inspired by that Virtual Indian article.
    I plan to buy myself a proper leak tester from Cotten for Christmas.

    The "manifold wrench" on the Left (with 3 holes in the handle } started life as a big washer like its brother above, Careful cutting filing and aluminum body tape on jaws and it works well and is thinner than


    "store-bought" one on the right.I found kids "Miracle bubbles" really works well for Manifold testing tools.jpg showing leaks. The small black plug lower right corner is start of what hopefully will be nipple leak tester. "Stay Calm and Carry on" (Maybe more appropriate under the British bike section),

    Leave a comment:


  • Johnnyf
    replied
    I like the demonstration I did all that , however, and “ seemed” to respond properly to the suck/blow test. But I really like the Cotten float better no doubt about it

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