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Okay so I need some education here. My 2296-31 main drive gear has oil passages: IMG_2077.jpg which would indicate movement relative to the mainshaft bushing 2297-31. Yet the 2297-31 bushing has oil passages on the ID as well which would indicate movement relative to the mainshaft. What am I missing? Is the 35094-31 bushing the same as the 35094-65 split back bushing?I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".
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I think that's actually a 2296-25 main drive gear. Looking at your 5th photo in post#7 and reading Steve's comments in post #10 re the bore sizes you may have your part numbers around the wrong way in your photo.
It reads like the earlier gear has the smaller ID and needs to be bored to use the later bushing.
In the earlier set up the bushing was soldered to the mainshaft which would explain the oil passages in the main drive gear.
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Originally posted by Steve Slocombe View PostYes, it is the -25 main drive gear which has the spirals cut in the steel, and less wide teeth than the -31 version. The -65 bushing is shorter than the original -31 VL one, but all we can find these days and seems to do the job.Originally posted by Peter Cooke View PostI think that's actually a 2296-25 main drive gear. Looking at your 5th photo in post#7 and reading Steve's comments in post #10 re the bore sizes you may have your part numbers around the wrong way in your photo.
It reads like the earlier gear has the smaller ID and needs to be bored to use the later bushing.
In the earlier set up the bushing was soldered to the mainshaft which would explain the oil passages in the main drive gear.I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".
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Okay so I installed the shorter 35094-65 bushing midway in the main gear IMG_2083.jpg IMG_2084.jpg as opposed to favoring one side or the other. If someone has another theory, please educate me.I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".
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Doing a dry run re-assembly, tranny is good. Bearings were nominal and ended up replacing with oversize on the countershaft. IMG_2105.jpg The L/H were a plug fit at .0008 and I installed .0004. The R/H were a plug fit at .0006 and I installed the 92222 .0004 o/s there as well. The old countershaft thrust washer was .078 and replaced with a .083, a new 2309-32 c/s gear end plate and I still have a .005 end play when it should be .001. Have a 2309-16 c/s bearing collar on the way which will hopefully fix the end play issue. I modified the mainshaft installation with sealed bearings IMG_2115.jpgIMG_2119.jpg so I left the brass oil seals out.Last edited by Grumpa; 09-16-2018, 06:39 PM.I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".
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So on fitting the clutch; the old mainshaft measured 1.0000 at the clutch 2494-30 race area the new mainshaft is 1.0005. The race measured 1.5005. The bearings were .250. Noted that the 2500-19 roller bearing washer had metal smear IMG_2143.jpg and the race was mushroomed. I replaced the mainshaft and it measures 1.0005 and of course it's a plug fit now with the nominal .250 bearings and 1.5005 race. My plan is to hone out the race another .0005.I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".
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Originally posted by Steve Slocombe View PostCountershaft gear end float is usually reckoned as free running to 0.010" so you're OK.
On another note, I have a wide selection of clutch bearing thrust washers 2500-19; from .0889 to .1195. What's the goal here? As noted above, something was wrong with the last guy's assembly because the hub was mushroomed and the washer had metal smear. The bearing cage length exceeds the hub.I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".
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Thanks for the typo spotting. On 2500-19, the idea is to find a washer not so thin as to allow the clutch drum to wobble, nor yet so thick as to bind/drag against the clutch drum. The roller bearing assembly should be slightly shorter than the clutch hub, so something needs looking at again.
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Sorry Steve, I really wasn't highlighting your typo so much as providing a reason for why...never mind. So I scournged up another race IMG_2145.jpg and my guess is that the last guy had too thick a thrust washer. So now that I have re-read your clutch removal instructions I see that there needs to be .005"-.010" end float. I'd move that bit of info to the reassembly section as your hopefully helpful critic/editor; even though I read it on disassembly I'm afraid I've slept since then.I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".
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I used to write/edit technical aviation manuals for the military in addition to turning a wrench, so I do apologize for being anal, lmao (pun intended).I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".
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Originally posted by Robert Luland View PostThe bushing was shortened to allow the main shaft seal on 1965 and later main drive gears. You could have ground that area and gotten the best of both worlds.I don't mean to brag but; I put together a puzzle in only a week when the box clearly said "2-4 years".
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