Dads Sport Scout

[FLFD7]

Had a great day at Oley yesterday, and today got a call a long time coming……

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The machine shop finished my cylinders, helicoils installed….now to get moving on it.

[chuckthebeatertruck]

If you think these threads are fun, I’m eye balls deep in a ‘49 Moto Guzzi. It uses a mix of British standard cycle thread, which is a 60 degree thread form, but unusual pitches closer to whitworth, but with whitworth head sizing, and fine metric, mostly 1.0 and 1.25.

prior to thread unification in 1949, each make could be unique. The vintage bike enthusiast gets good at scrounging old tools or learns to make a lot of stuff.

then, then we move into materials.

[FLFD7]

There are times when life catches up with you and your priorities shift, and that’s what happened over the last month since I posted. But I got a bit of time again, now I can get back at it. Before I get to my repaired cylinders I need to finish the rear wheel, one less thing to do later and I need space on my workbench again. After I finished the brake shoes and backing plate now to get the guts back in the wheel. A little thread repair first and check the fit of my new sprocket nut I got from Greer.

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I don’t like it and I’ll tell you why. When I did my 39 Sport Scout my buddy Jules, who used to race Scouts back in the day, told me a little tip, he said to drill and tap the sprocket nut for a little set screw that’ll put a little tension on the nut to keep it from backing off. Which I did on the 39. Looking at this new sprocket nut it’s a bit shall we say whimpy. I’m sure it’ll work fine with a little Loctite, but I wanted to use the set screw. I got other Scout wheels, gonna have to scavenge a nut off of one of them.

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There ya go, that’s more like it. You can see how much bigger the original one is vs the new one.

[FLFD7]

I figure I’ll go with a 8-32 set screw and I just happened to have one

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That’ll work fine I think.

[FLFD7]

Got the new hollow axle from Greer along with the shouldered nut for the brake side and some new felts, and some new bearings from a different source. Let’s get greasy.

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I screwed the shoulder nut all the way down, all the adjustment is on the sprocket side. Got the tension to what seems right (and what the manual says), a bit of drag and just a bit of side to side play. I flattened the tab washer and the hollow axle nut, spacers and felts and the thin retaining ring and looks good to me.

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Now the brake and the axle and I can set that aside.

[FLFD7]

Looks good and now a lot more room on the bench! 22B20120-74FA-4542-972A-30D1678BF79D.jpeg0C473EED-8154-4067-BF98-F5F29E9ADDC3.jpeg

[FLFD7]

Before moving on from the rear wheel just an observation of interest to those doing Scouts. The wheel I’m using, like the wheel that was originally on the bike, has a hub with the beefed up brake drum, a riveted and welded on plate…

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I have a couple of these Scout wheels. I have been told that the plate did two things, it gave extra rigidity to the brake drum and also acted as a heat sink if the brakes were used excessively. My 1939 Scout does not have this extra plate. I think the welded on plate was 1941 and 1942 sprung frame Sport Scouts, and the military 640B Scouts. I do have a wheel that has this…

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It has a plate (actually plates cause they split in the middle) that is riveted on, but not welded. Wondering where this fits in. Maybe the first iteration of this idea, like 1940? Maybe the welder was on lunch and this wheel slipped thru? I don’t know, and just noticed the difference today.

[pisten-bully]

Lookin' good! Curious about that sprocket nut and what sort of wrench/spanner/special tool did you use to tighten it?

[FLFD7]

Harry,
I go caveman style, a hammer and punch. Hey, it works…

[pisten-bully]

Thanks Joe! (my method, too!)

[FLFD7]

Well it’s been a while since I posted anything cause you know life gets in the way. But now to get back on it. Got an extra pair of hands to help get my cylinders on (thanks Jim, my twin brother)….
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Just a note to those working on Sport Scouts, watch the base nuts next to both the front and rear exhaust valves, there is literally no clearance between the nut and the valve cover. You can only tighten them with the valve cover open, and you must make sure there is a nut flat facing the valve cover or it will not close. Oh, and make sure you use a smaller diameter lock washer here or the cover will not close (ask me how I know).

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Just a little tip to save you some aggravation.

[exeric]

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If it's of any help, I cut down a 12PT. socket, and cut a short piece of 3/8 square stock that I can get a wrench on. Very tight quarters there.

[FLFD7]

Eric,
Nice. I use the factory wrench….

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It’s cut down, but does the job.

[exeric]

You can't do better than a factory wrench. I'll bet that's a rare item. Thanks again for all of the valuable pictures, advice, and insight, Joe.

[FLFD7]

Some more progress on the engine, I modified the carb bowl bracket by cutting a notch so I can swing it down and out of the way if working on the carb. There ain’t much room under there so this helps a little.

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I retimed the engine and got the distributor squared away.

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Hope to get the heads on and the engine buttoned up this upcoming week.