Dads Sport Scout

[FLFD7]

On the non brake side of the hub is a bearing adjusting nut to set the tension on the bearings, I made a wrench for this years ago, it’s got to be thin to fit between the bearing race and the tab washer.

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Then you have to bend the tab washer to keep the adjustment.

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Just about done.

[FLFD7]

Ok, front wheel done

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On to the rear wheel….

[joe fxs fxr]

Looks great, keep the updates coming, thanks!

[FLFD7]

So I’ve been doing some work on the rear wheel



it has a Goodyear Grasshopper tire on it from what looks like 1956, but I won’t be using that. I’m going to use a different wheel altogether because of this…



Someone welded to sprocket to the hub and the sprocket is shot. Oh well, fortunately I got another one. But I will need the guts and backing plate from this one, so apart it comes.


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[FLFD7]

Well, yuck….

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So much grease on the brake linings wonder how it t stopped…
The brake drum side nut had a bit of a problem…

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It came off in 2 pieces….sigh, guess I’m putting another order in with Greers….
I have some spare wheel parts, but I didn’t realize until I started messing with this one that Indian beefed up the rear wheel hollow axle and hardware, the earlier 1940 and down Scouts had a hollow axle 11/16” diameter same as the front wheel, but 41 and 42 they went up to 7/8”.

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Big difference, the earlier on the left 11/16-24, the later 7/8-24 on the right. Odd thread size too, what’s with Indian and all the 24 tpi hardware’? I wonder if this is a weak spot cause I don’t see how the nut would break like that.

[Tom Lovejoy]

really enjoying your thread, over the years. I have pulled the threads on my cylinders several times, I finally heli coiled them all in frustration and had no more troubles. Then today I was doing my wheel's, looking at much the same stuff :-) Very cool history with your machine, thanks for sharing

[FLFD7]

Well I’ve made a little progress, still waiting on my cylinders but the machinist actually called me and said I’m in the list for this week (fingers crossed). So let’s take a look at the rear backing plate…

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Well, yuck, needs a good cleaning. One issue right off the bat is the end of the speedo drive came off with the cable. Gonna get that out with a little heat and penetrating oil

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Well that wasn’t too bad. The brake linings are shot, I have new in boxes from Chicago Motorcycle Supply, but I also have a decent set of shoes from another wheel so I might as well use them.

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Everything cleaned up well, now some paint and reassemble.

[FLFD7]

Ok, everything painted, let’s hit it…

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There is supposed to be a small dowel pin holding the inside speedo drive gear, but when I took it apart there was a cotter pin used so I figured I’d leave it that way. I had to distort the head of the cotter pin to make sure there were no clearance issues with the gear on the hub. I think it’ll be fine.

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Looks good for now. Next clean up the rear wheel, get the hollow axle and bearings in, along with a new drive sprocket and nut, and put it all together.

[FLFD7]

Just wanted to mention I’m glad my father has odd tools labeled for Indian motorcycles in his drawers, save me some expense. The beefed up rear axle on the 41 and 42 Sport Scout is 1/2-24 thread (vs 7/16-20 on front axle and earlier Sport Scout rear wheels). 1/2-24 is an oddball size (again, wtf Indian and the 24 tpi). I had to clean up the axle and nut and chase the threads, but I didn’t have the right tap, but lo and behold my father did. Thanks!

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[PaulCDF]

For sure the right tool saves a lot of time and grief. Agree "wtf Indian and the 24 tpi" Seems that was their propriety fastener
Reminds me when I was a kid I had a bicycle; if you needed to replace the tire it had to be their brand as other (cheaper) would not fit!

[T. Cotten]

.... Agree "wtf Indian and the 24 tpi" Seems that was their propriety fastener.....

Don't look now, Paul,...

But HD used 24tpi nearly everywhere they could!

Lathes and other machinery of the era used gear sets to produce different feeds, and swapping them out takes time and effort. So leaving most at 24tpi was most practical.

Consider also the small fasteners that threaded into aluminum castings. Coarse threads are more likely to shake loose, and fine threads are more likely to gall and strip. Particularly for ¼" fasteners, 24 was the happy intermediate between 20 and 28.

.....Cotten

[PaulCDF]

Thanks Cotten good to know
I been looking at providers of
“obsolete” taps and dies but have yet to compile a list of “essentials” Always seems to be one I don’t have.

[T. Cotten]

....Always seems to be one I dont have...

It doesn't get interesting until you get into Scheblers, Paul!

They are so hard to keep track of, I ended up with duplicates.

....Cotten

[PaulCDF]

SEE That's what you get when you want to do a job properly!

[exeric]

Thanks Cotten good to know
I been looking at providers of
“obsolete” taps and dies but have yet to compile a list of “essentials” Always seems to be one I don’t have.

1/2 x 24 isn't obsolete, or hard to find. It's 26 t.p.i. that is obsolete from American tap, and die makers that is hard to find. I have a 1911 Flying Merkel, and it uses 5/16 x 26 oval head case bolts, and 1/2 x 26 bolts. You have to go to India for those taps, or single point them on your lathe.