Pa's 1942 WLA Transmission Build

[Paps]

WLA Trans In Progress

Well....I've finally decided to put my 42WLA trans together. After collecting 99.9% nos parts, minus the case, for it. I'll start the assembly process soon. Here is what she looks like bare, along with all of the parts she will contain within her. Pa

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 10.04.53 AM.jpg


[NOTE: Pa's 1942 Transmission build appeared as a companion thread to his main project a 1942 WLA. Here in the AMCA Forum we have the pleasure of sharing both of these build threads. In this transmission build we will include condensed comments and replies from the members of the S&S Cycle Vintage Bike Forum. Some of the members that commented are recognizable as members from the AMCA Forum. Comments are labeled as to who made them and will be separated by a line of equal (=) symbols so you can see the separation.]

[Paps]

100inchscoot

And your tech question is?
Damn are you telling me you got carpet in your shop?
Looks like a bunch of plastic bags to me on blue carpet
how many came from me?
like as in merry xmas from your ol lady
she went to pains to conceal some of those parts she was getting you on the sly
just givin you a hard time paul but i'm sure you know that
i just dont want others to think i'm being a ass
==============================

ohio-rider
Nice stash you got there Pa. You going to smoke all that yourself?
==============================

Chris Haynes
I met an old guy in Milwaukee back in '98. He had worked for the Mo Co during WWII. His job was to build eight WLA transmissions a day. He said when he first started he struggled to try to build eight a day. After he got it dialed in he would knock out eight transmissions then crawl under the bench and sleep the rest of his shift.
==============================

Pa
Damn !!! Wish I had the tooling he had access to.
==============================

100inchscoot
Damn that’s one a hour
w series trannys are not easy by any means
i can't fathom one an hour even with a unlimited supply of parts
==============================

Pa
Not fitted to specs anyway...heh Scoot ? Ya start with the clutch gear bearing fitting, go to the mainshaft end play, the mainshaft end play takes many togethers and aparts. Once you are satisfied with the mainshaft end play. You got the cluster gear bearings to fit up. Next comes the mainshaft gears and shifter clutches. Spacing and clearance on these takes a few togethers and aparts. After fartin around with the two shafts and their components, you get to button up the side cover. Now it's time for the shifter gear, drum, and shifter forks. Same here....clearances...a few more togethers and aparts before you hit where you need to be. Now you can toss the sprocket cover on to hold the shifter fork shaft in place. Did I forget anything ? OH YEAH ! Adjust the shifter drum plunger ball screw for correct shifting tension and peen in location. Now that that is all out of the way, throw the sprocket on it.
==============================

Pa
Well....been getting set to fit the clutch gear to the main clutch gear race but have run into a problem. I should have miked the nos race before installing it into the case. My nos clutch gear diameter is right on but the race, as installed is undersized. As I see it, my options are to hone the case race while installed in the case, or remove the race and grind it to spec, so I can start with standard rollers. I don't like the idea of honing it while in the case, due to the short width of the actual roller contact surface of it. I'll go ahead and remove it from the case and re grind it to size.
==============================

37ULH
Duh. You may want to try the other race for fit also and guess what, damn. Cluster gear, possibly same. All bushings... Get the picture yet? Then the motor will need all the same treatments.
Hope you get all the miles out of her for your troubles.
==============================

ohio-rider
I know the frustration of no sooner starting a long awaited project just to have some snag come up right away and slow things down. So it's not just aftermarket parts that don't fit. Keep us posted as to your progress Pa. It would be interesting if you were to keep a log of your hours to complete your tranny.
==============================

Pa
Yeah...I will not miss a spec the rest of the way through this trans build. Engine work is easier to me than tranny work. Although I enjoy rebuilding earlier Big Twin trannies. Big Twin trannies are designed for the mechanically inclined individual. They flow together darn near on their own. On the other hand, no two 45 trannies are alike.
I fitted the shifter shaft bushings and countershaft bushing before installing the clutch gear race. Inspected the clutch gear as well. It really is a beauty. Countershaft and mainshaft are super nice too. I just didn't mic the ID of the clutch gear race before installing. I miched the OD, for fit to the case bore though. I should not have assumed the race ID would be good. I know better than this also. After discovering an NOS OEM flywheel gear shaft had no taper on it, when I removed it from the mil spec packaging, a trans gear box stud, freshly removed from mil spec packaging with no threads, and a few other parts along the way with something or another missing on them,

I just should have known better. The vast majority of NOS OEM parts I inspect are usually dead on in specs. It is too cold to re grind the race today so I'll go at it again when the sun warms the area up. I will knock the race back out today. That ought to put a frown on the Ole Ladies face. I'll be using her oven a couple of more times. Once to remove the race and once again to put it back in again. Logging my hours won't help anyone here out Steve. I'm slow now a days. What use to take me minutes now takes my days.

37ULH
Steve, Typically OEM parts are spot on. All new races will not accept std rollers without truing and sizing, intentionally, unless the shaft being used is undersized.
==============================

ohio-rider
So we can assume that back in the day, that the guy assembling these transmissions had a trustful helper, inspecting/preparing the parts for him beforehand. That would certainly explain how the old timer could have done eight a day. Wow.... And I thought I hated my job.
==============================

Pa
That makes sense ! Ya would of thought the package part number would identify the undersize though. Like the numbers do for bearing rollers, etc.. And I agree with the typically spot on statement.
Got the race back out today. Hopefully it will warm enough tomorrow to re grind it.
Yeah Steve, That could definitely explain production numbers such as that.
==============================

Kurt
Hold on.....I've just gotta do this.....this is for you scoot..........
Piece of **** NOS garbage.....never fit like they should.
You'd think that they if they make enough they would go the extra step to get it right.

This is a perfect example why I NEVER use NOS crap.
Probably all made by a Taiwanese or Indian machinist at the factory. Every part I get I have to spend hours to make fit and re-machine.
I just don't get it.....how much more effort to make it right.
All NOS stuff is crap......I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. Junk.....just plain junk.
LOL
You can remove this Pa......just pokin fun at scoot for the last 7 years of him saying how good his stuff is compared to repro's....... not trying to start a pissing contest....just thought the timing was right for my being quiet and having to read his posts all these years......
Laugh sc t..........
==============================

ozihotrod
nos I thought that meant New Old Stock, there we go learn something new every day , can’t be new old stock if it’s made in India or China
==============================

Pa
Remove it Kurt ? What for ? I really think Scoot will get a good chuckle out of it.
On another note.... I got to be thinking about the undersized comment some more. The more I pondered it, the more I looked for the tooling to resize the race. None was provided to do this for the 45 models. The factory parts and service manuals show none. The military parts and service manuals show none. But ???? Most all the service manuals for Big Twin do. So to summarize... Though Big Twin transmissions were meant to be made to fit, after race installation, proof is in the service manuals, it seems, 45 transmissions were not. Puzzling....Heh ???
==============================

37ULH
Pa, You still haven't mentioned the other race. If you changed it for NOS, it will also need sized.
I'm really surprised this is news.
What are you doing with your good used parts? I know of a good outlet and someone who is not afraid to use them if the price is right!
==============================

Pa
I haven't gotten that far yet. I'll fit the clutch gear before I work on the side cover race. Fitting the clutch gear race as close as possible to tolerances will allow me more room for fitting the opposite end. Never use up tolerances early. Save them for the end. Don't worry none, Kat will dispose of my used parts, and nos oem not needed ones, I'm sure.
==============================

[Paps]

Pa
I've decided to extend this topic to a build program. Since this tranny is only in the beginning of its refurbishment, I think maybe, just maybe, it ought to go step by step. Hopefully, the build will influence and help those who are doing their own builds, especially for those who cannot afford to have it done by others, and must cut corners and do it themselves. Also....since my timely skills have diminished over time. I got plenty of time to do this tranny this way. Even after the many 45 trannies I have refurbished, I forget more than I learned anymore ! In the long run. maybe..... this topic will actually help somebody out. To update everyone interested, I have already knocked the undersized clutch gear race out, for re grind. No pics on this...I screwed up again. I will take pics of the race getting installed, after grinding though. That will be after baking a tranny cake at, at just less than 300 degree F.. We'll do our best to instruct that that point on. Any suggestions on instruction material or educational reference, that should be included, before we get to the next step ? One note though....this tranny is to be built as an early 42wla model trans. There will be no olive drab paint on the case, as the later 42wla's. No olive drab top cover either. The early was plated. Given all the variances in the model 42wla's, type I through type 7, this ought to be fun.
Don't you dare add up the hours Steve ! Pa

[Paps]

ohio-rider
Thank you for doing a step by step on this tranny Pa. The way I treat mine it's only a matter of time before I will be needing some good
documentation on how to do it for myself. Man! I'm the last guy to start counting hours. As you know I've been since last November to just put a set of handlebars together.
==============================

DodgyLoner
Hi Pa - Thanks in advance for doing this step by step build.
I’ve heard of the race problem somewhere before, it was said that the race was intentionally slightly undersized to allow for "line honing" with the gearbox side cover race. The tool for this wasn't described but sounded very similar in principle to the adjustable lapping tool used to align the engine case bearing races. Not sure if this was a Big Twin gearbox tool that was being used on the 45.
==============================

Karl
George Greer Pa,
Cool Idea...I wish that I when I started my WLA that I had some extra insight and assistance like this.
When I started my trannie, all I had was books.... step by step, sometimes not really clear which way to go on the rebuild of it.
But with the books and this forum.. I got it done.
Easier to do once you do one and understand it all.....It is rather frustrating to do at first, assemble/measure/disassemble...remeasure make sure adjustments correct.......then do it all again........and DON'T Misplace any shims!!
Have fun.....take pics...Photos says a lot. George

[Paps]

Pa

OK....Here we go...at least, this is the beginning of where I left off. I had already replaced both 2172-26 tripper bolts, 2173-41 tripper bolt nuts, 2242-38C shifter shaft lrg. bushing, 2242-38B shifter shaft sm. bushing, and 2312-26 left side countershaft bushing. I had also completed all the previously installed bushings', reaming and fitting. I had also made sure the 2245-41 gear shifting fork shaft, 2244-41 gear shifting cam shaft, 2242-40 gear shifter lever shaft, and 2300-41 countershaft, all fit nicely into their respective positions. I had also miched out the bore in the case for the 2518-41 clutch bearing race. This is a critical are to be concerned with. I have seen, many times, this bore to be egg shaped, or to tight or too large for the interference fit of a new race. .0005" to .0015" interference is all that is need. Any tighter and the new 2518-41 clutch bearing race may shrink in size, after installation, into the case. I ran taps through all tapped holes, to enable easy assembly along the way. Along with all of this work, I dressed all the gasket surfaces, to insure there were no burrs or obstructions. Gasket surfaces are not the only areas to be concerned with. The area where the 2299-41 second gear retaining bracket seats needs attention as well. Not to mention the surfaces the 2518-41 clutch gear race seats against. Do the same to all areas, where you replace a bushing, etc..

I have since corrected my oversight of micing the nos 2518-41 clutch gear bearing race. I've re ground the race I.D. to minimum tolerances of .0006" clearance, using a factory spec size journal 2513-41 clutch gear, along with standard size 2289-36 roller bearings of .1250". In this particular trans build, my clutch gear bearing race to case bore, interference fit, is .0007". I am very pleased with this fit. The squeeze on the race will not shrink my re ground race I.D. size. As I suspected, after race installation, size held perfectly.
After I re ground the cluster gear race, I cleaned the case thoroughly with hot soapy water and brushes, then rinsed the same way. I then placed the clutch gear race in the freezer so it would shrink down the diameter a bit. Every little bit helps when looking for an easy installation. I then setup a couple of parallels to suspend the case, high enough above the length of the protruding clutch gear race during installation. I used two 1" square high speed tool bits as my parallels. I laid protect strips of paper over the parallels as well. Next I placed my trans case on a cookie sheet and closed it
up in the Ole ladies oven. Do not preheat the oven ! You want the case to heat with the oven. With oven set at 285 degrees F, I allowed the case to cook for 5 minutes extra, after preset oven temperature was acquired. Snatching up a pair of the Ole Ladies pot holders, I removed the case form the oven, placed it onto my make shift installation setup, removed the clutch gear race from the freezer, steadily placed the race into position over the case bore opening, keeping it as close to center as possible, and let her drop. The race dropped into the bore nicely. I heard the sound of it bottoming out on the machined in case race lip. I then placed my make shift weight on top of the race. I do this for insurance purposes. The weight keeps the race from walking up and out any, while everything cools down.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 10.43.33 AM.jpg

Note the pilot on the end of my weight. It is turned to miss the clutch gear thrust bearing race cage /ball assembly path, yet it delivers good pressure around the clutch gear outer race diameter.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 10.43.19 AM.jpg

After a couple of hours of cooling the case off to room temperature, I re miced the clutch gear race. All was good. Now I was ready to assemble the clutch gear to the race. Since I do not have the 2512-41 clutch gear oil seal installed already, I will explain that part when I get to it. I prefer to have it removed when fitting the clutch gear to the race anyway. The clutch gear will turn more easily without it installed. It is a little tricky keeping the clutch gear in the race, while installing the rollers though. I do this by installing the 2522-41 clutch gear thrust bearing race and the 2521-41 clutch gear thrust bearing cage/ball assembly, onto the clutch gear. Install the 2521-41 clutch gear thrust bearing cage/ball assembly, with the open end of the cage, facing the clutch gear. Next I installed the assembly into the case race via the inside out. Using one hand to create slight pressure on the assembly, in order to keep the assembly seated against the inner face of the clutch gear race [ this also helps center the assembly to the clutch gear race ] I rolled the trans case over for the roller installation. This gets on the nerves a bit. I use tweezers to install each roller, one at a time. Since I knew my measurements were correct, I knew all 40 rollers would go in. And they did. Assembly to the race and rollers showed free movement and no noticeable side play. YES !!!! Now it was time to disassemble these parts for lubing. I prefer to dry fit initially. Lube will prevent a good feel while fitting. I now install 2299-39 second gear retainer bracket, 2299-33A retainer bracket bolt washer, and 1123-29 retainer bracket bolts.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 10.43.03 AM.jpg

I tighten them down until they bottom first. I then start tightening them down, one at a time, from one bolt head to the other, until I feel they are really good and snug. I've no value for this tightening procedure. Just don't strip them out ! Once I feel I have them good and snug, I check to see if the retainer bolt lock washer tabs align with the flats on the sides of the bolt heads. If they do not, I tighten them a bit more, just until the first bolt head flat, aligns with the closest lock washer tab.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 10.42.46 AM.jpg

Now I bend the aligned lock washers’ tabs. I like to place them snug against the bolt head flats.
Now I'll reassembly the clutch gear components again. But first I lightly coat them in grease. I use white lithium grease for this. It is thinner and spreads thinner than standard bearing grease types. It will also blend into [ mix with ] the motor oil I will use, once assembly is completed. The grease will protect the components prior to first use as well. I coat the clutch gear roller bearing journal, clutch gear thrust bearing race face where the rollers will ride against, clutch gear race I.D., clutch gear thrust bearing ball pocket, clutch gear thrust bearing race ball pocket, clutch gear thrust bearing race cage/ball assembly,. then I reassemble them to the case. Next I coat the 2520-41 clutch gear roller bearing thrust washer and install it. Then I coat the 2520-41A clutch gear roller bearing thrust washer retainer washer and install.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 10.40.52 AM.jpg

[Paps]

Pa
The first set of 10 images below are of the factory 12735-42 clutch gear oil seal remover and installer tool kit. In this case, I will be installing the seal and using only the tool kit components I need to do the task.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 1.05.09 PM.jpg

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 12.38.16 PM.jpg

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 12.38.35 PM.jpg

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 12.38.50 PM.jpg

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 1.06.25 PM.jpg

[Paps]

The next set of two images below are of the NOS OEM 2512-41 clutch gear oil seal. Both views are showing the spring side of the seal. This is the side which will face the clutch gear. Since the material which makes up the actual lip of the seal is very rigid, I will warm the seal up to about 120 degrees, in order to make it more flexible for installation purposes.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 10.57.35 AM.jpg

The next set of three images below are of the oil seal guide sleeve, from the 12735-42 tool kit. First image shows the guide sleeve, as positioned into place, upon the clutch gear oil seal. This is the first step in installing the seal, using this tool kit. The guide sleeves counter bored end, is in position on the seals closed side, seal side facing away from clutch gear. I have lightly greased both, the seals lip, and the sleeve all over, inside and out. The second images shows my makeshift press, a block of 2x4, placed on top of the guide sleeve. The third image shows the guide sleeve as now pressed into the seals lip. This procedure prevents damaging of the seals lip.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 10.57.52 AM.jpg

[Paps]

The next set of three images below, show the steps, using the components of the tool kit, to install the seal. First image shows the guide seal, and seal, as placed onto the clutch gear shaft. The counter bore shoulder in the guide sleeve, will seat against the clutch gears splined shoulder face. The second image shows the tool kits pilot shaft, as threaded onto the clutch gear threads. The pilot will bottom out against the clutch gear when threaded on. The third image shows the tool kits puller body, now assembled to the
pilot stud. Note the L shaped lever, of the puller body, positioned to the left. Support the clutch gear from the inside of the trans case so the gear will not move out of the bore any. Push the puller body onto the pilot until the seal touches the entrance to the seal bore in the clutch gear race.

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 11.23.14 AM.jpg

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 11.23.35 AM.jpg

Screen Shot 2020-04-03 at 11.23.54 AM.jpg

[Twister the fitter]

Holy Cow Paps, I can't believe my eyes as I'm reading your posts regarding the WLA 45 Tranny build ! I just received the last few NOS parts for my tranny build today and now here you are explaining the entire procedure. . . . UNBELIEVABLE !!! I'm copying and printing your instructions and pointers as I write this note. Thanks so much for info like this to help a TRUE novice like myself to achieve his "bucket list build" ! I am still in need of one more NOS part, if you could help, or have any leads for me ? #2513-41/37450-41 Mainshaft Clutch Gear. Thanks Again for a "lifetime" of knowledge and experience in your info. Tim/Twister the Fitter

[Steve Slocombe]

Thanks Paps and keep it coming. I've just finished a 1944 WLA gearbox which was well worn. One shifter fork had been welded up which gave the clue. Very worn mainshaft gears and shifter clutches, so it had been jumping out of gear. On dismantling I found the mainshaft had been machined down about 15 thou, likewise the bushings at both ends, and incorrect rollers then fitted throughout. Aargh! Complete new mainshaft assembly and bushings needed, but repro parts not that expensive and apparently reasonable quality. I bought military manual TM9-1879 to remind me how to do it. QUESTION: page 162 of the manual gives shifter clutch and low gear shifter fork clearances, but these are reversed in a later reprint. Which is correct?

[Architect]

This is the best source for rebuilding one of these transmission, I refer to it as The Bible, Paul did a great job explaining and documenting. I thank him again for his assistance when I did mine, I still owe you a beer!!!!

[Paps]

The next set of four images are a continuance of the previous three images. First image is of the tool kits pusher, as now installed. Screw the pusher into the puller body, as far as possible, without it moving the puller body, away from the seal.

Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 9.49.41 AM.jpg

Second image shows the tool kits nut now installed. Snug nut good against the pusher.

Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 9.49.28 AM.jpg

The third image shows the tool kits T-handles in place in the pusher, and the direction, counter clockwise, the handles will be turned. Note how the L shaped handle on the puller body, will now act as an opposing force.

Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 9.49.14 AM.jpg

The fourth image, is of the seal, now installed into the clutch gear race. Turn T-handles counterclockwise until seal bottoms out on face, of clutch gear race seal fit bore. Installation of clutch gear oil seal is now completed. Remove tool kits components in reverse order.

Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 9.48.58 AM.jpg

[Paps]

Pa
Well.......ran into another glitch ! Seems one of my nos oem parts was mislabeled. The second and high gear shifter clutch [2298-41 old # or 35445-41 new # ], is not what is was labeled as. I don't even know what this particular shifter clutch is, that was in the mislabeled package. I have all nos oem parts for the inside of this transmission. I would really like to keep it that way. I do have a few good usable oem clutches but, as I said, I would really like to keep the internals all nos. Anyone have one they are will to part with ? Thanks, Pa

FlatHeadsix
I've been lurking in the background here since I followed the link from the AMCA forum. I've been down this road a couple times myself but I'm always willing to learn so don't be afraid to get technical and tell us EVERYTHING we need to know about putting one of these together the right way.
I was forced to do my first WL tranny rebuild because of a catastrophic failure. My son and I were heading home after a 100 mile poker run when the rollers inside the cluster gear quit rolling, the countershaft literally welded itself to the cluster gear and the starter crank slammed straight to the pavement at about 40 mph. The shaft took a few other parts with it when it headed south and it makes a noise that's hard to describe, something like all hell breaking loose I imagine.
Anyway Pa, stay with it and keep the pictures and narratives coming, you're doing a great job with this. Thanks for posting the link.
mike
p.s. FOR SALE: OEM countershaft and Roller Bearing Set, used, CHEAP!

Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 9.58.30 AM.jpg

Pa
Thanks Mike and WOW !!! what a failure ! Sure makes a wreck of things fast, as they go out that quickly. Pa

Pa
Wow again !!! I won't be needing an NOS OEM second and high shifter clutch now. Steve Lemay and Mike Carter, both offered one up. Steve beat Mike to it, so Steve’s' will be the one that goes in the trans. A special thanks to both of these outstanding Bros' !!!
While I await the shifter clutch, I will proceed to check fits on the other components of the mainshaft. I'll fit the cluster gear and rollers to the countershaft as well. I spent the better part of this day cleaning cosmoline off of parts. Last night I checked the side cover and sprocket cover for burrs etc.. I made certain the trans side cover studs would slip through their respective positions. I did this because I have been in the middle of a build before, when the studs interfered with a nice tap on cover fit. I made up my
mind several builds ago, to make sure all will go together, before I get into a tight spot again. The key to a smooth build is knowing what you have, to start with. I may sound repetitive here but everything should be inspected. Remember my clutch gear race ? If I would have checked it, instead of assuming, I wouldn't have had to do as much work with it. It pays to document shaft journal and bore sizes. It also pays to slide splined parts, over mating parts, to insure free movement. Slide gears onto their respective positions and give them a spin. Check seal fits for burrs. Check shims and spacers for burrs. Document race and bushing sizes. always deburr gasket faces. Always run a tap into threaded holes. Even thread hole can have a burr around the holes opening. Knock it off with a fine file. Check everything ! To sum all this up.... good preparation, such as the previously mentioned tasks, will make for a fairly easy assembly.
Pa

ohio-rider
Careful now Pa. Your beginning to sound like an old machinist.

Pa
An ancient machinist !

100inchscoot
hey mike i dont know what oil you were using but never use anything but a str8 grade oil like 30to60 wt.
not multi grade
and never use snake oils like slick50 in any roller motor or trans
rollers need to roll not slide as i see your most likely did on you

hey pa
that shifter clutch is the harder one to find of the 2 that’s why I had no spares of it but rather offered you a loan from one of my wr tranny's parts


FlatHeadsix
scoot, I've never run anything but str8 weight dead dinosaur in any of my old trannies. I've read all the pros & cons over the years about the benefits of gear lube, synthetic blends, high-pressure lubes, etc, but I still can't find any compelling reason to switch. They were designed to use the same oil that went into the engine, they worked fine when they were originally built, why change now?

I suspect that water was the enemy in this case (pun intended), it blew up in late March about 5 years ago at the Louisiana State H.O.G. Rally, first time out for the bike that year after sitting in the shed all winter. Probably my fault for not checking it closer before riding it 100 miles. A BIG maintenance problem with the WL transmissions is that they never had a drain plug in the case, if you wanted to change the oil, flush the case, and refill it you were stuck using some kind of suction pump and a tube, a real pita!
I was going to make a remark about my tranny being one of those 8-a-day assemblies, maybe #1 on a Monday morning or #8 on a Friday afternoon. But, like I said, it was probably my own damn fault, chalk it up as an expensive lesson.
I'll always remember something Tom Cotten told me once; "clean oil is better than dirty oil, dirty oil is better than no oil", truer words were never spoken!
mike

Pa
The lack of a drain plug is an issue with 45 transmissions. I don't understand why the Mo Co didn't incorporate one. I use a turkey baster with a small plastic hose connected to it, to suck the lube out. Got to have the lube pretty well mixed before draining it this way, or it don't remove much of the crap. Even this method can't remove all of the spent lube. The hose hangs up on the internals. I thought about making a special bottom mounting stud, which would be hollowed out, and capped. Since all three stud holes, go completely through, into the case interior, the lowest one, and easiest to access one, should be the one replaced with the modified drain stud. The stud would also have to be longer, in order to accommodate the nut and the cap. Pa
George Greer Pa,

Pa
Speaking of studs, I'll be installing the studs in my WLA tranny tomorrow. I will also use a sealant on the threads when I do. Pa

Pa
Back to the build....Single photo below. While awaiting some spare time to come my way, for continuing this trans build, I decided to install the three [ 2318-26 ] frame mounting studs. I coated the studs in Permatex silicone sealer before installing them. The sealer is an added leak protector. The key to good stud installation is again, prep work. Clean threads! All three studs have flats milled onto them. These flats must align with the slots in the mounting areas of the frame. If, while you are installing the studs, the flats will not align, without using excessive force, beyond when they bottom out, back them off to align them. This looseness will not interfere with the function of the studs. The silicone sealer will keep them in place, securely enough for assembly to the frame. The sealer, since it is flexible, will maintain a good seal as well. The milled flats on the studs, will prevent the studs from rotating in the frame, when they are locked down, after primary chain adjustment is set.

Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 10.00.56 AM.jpg

[Paps]

Pa
I believe that idler gear shaft does exactly what you suggested. It dowels and supports. Scoots plug idea is great. I think a pipe tapered plug would be most suitable. It would prevent loosening up of the drain plug. That could be catastrophic, if it did come loose. It would also expand the stud beyond the hold down nut. I'm afraid though, using an existing OEM stud, the stud may be split from the pipe tapered threaded plug. A taper acts as a wedge. Modern materials would be more suitable in preventing this. Say for instance, 4140 steel. Making one would take little time. Turn the ends, chase the threads. Mill the flats. One hour tops, conventionally machined. Use of a magnetic plug would trap more debris.

Pa, haven’t checked in in a while and I hate to keep harping on one aspect of the build but how will you now line ream the race in the side cover with your clutch gear and seal installed?

Pa
45 transmissions need no line reaming. Big Twins do. Both the mainshaft
and the countershaft are supported in bushings on one end, in a 45 tranny. The side cover is not even doweled. There are basic alignment points on the cover but those points are not consistent. 45 tranny cases are not match marked with the side covers, unlike the engine cases are. There is great forgiveness in the 45 tranny tolerances. Pa

Pa
Prepping for mainshaft endplay adjustment.... Mic the mainshaft bearing journal end which goes through the 2260-41 side cover. Record the measurement. Mic the 2290-33 roller bearing race which is pressed into the side cover. Record that measurement. Subtract the mainshaft bearing journal measurement from the side cover roller bearing race measurement. Subtract the clearance needed [ .0006” - .0008” ] from that number. Divide that number by 2. This number will be the size 2306-32 bearing roller needed, for correct clearance of the mainshaft to the side cover roller bearing race. Select the correct bearing rollers and set them aside. I obtained .0007" on this mainshaft roller bearing to race fit.

NOTE: When selecting bearing rollers, mic every single one of them. It is not uncommon to find variations in sizes, even from unopened packages. One single improper sized bearing roller, mixed in with the rest of the rollers you have selected, will quickly destroy, all of the time, work and effort, you put into your transmission build! Not to mention the cost of other damaged components from it.

Next...install the 2346-33A and the 2346-33B side cover case studs.
Now we can adjust the 2272-41 mainshaft endplay. Before we continue, I want to stress how important it is, not to have any of the clutch pushrod oil seal parts, installed in the clutch gear. Those parts will interfere with obtaining correct mainshaft endplay. It is also very important to have followed the early mentioned instruction of deburring mating surfaces and having clean threads and holes, along with checking fasteners and studs to both those threads and holes. Continuing... Select the .078" thick mainshaft spacer from the 2516-41A mainshaft spacer set. This is the thinnest spacer in the set. This spacer will guarantee endplay for the mainshaft, assuming all parts passed inspection specifications. Assemble the spacer to the clutch gear end of the mainshaft, sliding it all the way up to the smaller splined diameters shoulder. Make certain the spacer will actually seat against that shoulder. If it will not seat against that shoulder, find out why and correct it. Next....slide the 2292-33 thrust washer onto the cover end of the mainshaft, until it is seated against the large splined diameter of the mainshaft. Make sure it will seat against the shoulder, or find out why it will not and correct it. Now slide the 2296-33A spacing collar onto the same end of the mainshaft. Small end on first. Flanged end facing out. Next insert the mainshaft, and parts now assembled onto it, into the clutch gear bushing, until the assembly seats completely against the clutch gear. Install the 2262- 41 side cover gasket, then the 2260-41 side cover. Take caution with the side cover gasket, while guiding the side cover onto the case studs so as not to tear the gasket or bind the cover. Once side cover is about an 1/8” away from the trans case face, inspected gasket once more. Also, installed the five 047 screws and the other two 2346 studs. This will insure all fasteners have been inserted into each gasket hole provided for them. At this point, if side cover will not go the rest of the way on easily, gently tap it on using a soft mallet, using a staggering type method on your tapping positions. It should go on then. If it don’t find out why and correct it. Once the cover is on, tighten up all fasteners, just as if you were finished with the assembly. I use washers and spacers on the two 2346-33 studs to take up the length of the studs. Stagger the tightening sequence also. Once you are sure the cover is on good and solid, begin inserting the side cover 2306-32 mainshaft bearing rollers. With the trans case positioned with the 2318-26 mounting studs facing down, insert each roller into the upper side of the mainshaft and race. The mainshaft will be sagged slightly there, and insertion of the rollers will go easily. After several of the bearing rollers have been inserted, it will become difficult to insert anymore of them, unless you rotate the mainshaft forward and backward, so that the rollers all travel to the underside of the mainshaft. Once you get the rollers in the position, finish inserting the rest of the rollers up above again. I use tweezers for the roller installation. I do not use lube for mainshaft endplay adjustment. Many service manuals say to but I believe the lube will interfere with correct mainshaft endplay adjustment. I now turn the tranny over, so that the mounting studs are facing up. Now we can check the current mainshaft endplay clearance. Before we do this though, we need to make certain the clutch gear it still seated against the clutch gear thrust bearing, and the mainshaft, is still seated against the clutch gear. Once this is verified, I mount a dial indicator to the gearbox housing and set the dial indicator plunger on the end of the mainshaft. Now that the dial indicator is set, I grasp the threads of the mainshaft, using two hands, one finger per hand, finger nails in threads, and pull out on the mainshaft. The dial indicator reads the movement. I record it. I repeat this several times, making certain the travel of the mainshaft repeats it’s self on my dial indicator. This whole procedure was to obtain an actual number to work with. We already know what 2516-41A mainshaft spacer we presently have on the mainshaft. Correct mainshaft endplay is .003” - .005”. If we have already obtained this reading. We are good to go. If not, whatever the dial indicator read, we add to the .078” spacer, which is presently installed, and subtract the .003” - .005” clearance. That sum will be the spacer thickness we need for correct mainshaft endplay, of this particular 45 tranny. Next....we disassemble in reverse order of assembly. Remove all of the bearing rollers, then the fasteners. Next the side cover, making certain the gasket does not hang up and tear as the side cover is removed. If side cover does not slip off easily, tapping around the gasket side of the cover edge will push it along. Remove the mainshaft and the components assembled to it. Remove the 2516-41A .078” mainshaft spacer and replace that spacer with the correct spacer, determined by your indicator reading and calculations. Repeat the assembly sequence again. Recheck the mainshaft endplay with the dial indicator. Your mainshaft endplay should be correct now. I obtained .0035" mainshaft endplay, on this tranny. Repeat the disassembly sequence. Set mainshaft and assembled components, along with the bearing rollers off to the side.


Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 10.09.14 AM.jpg

[Paps]

Next procedure will be the 2295-41 second gear to the 2299-41 second gear retaining bracket, clearance adjustment.

Pa
Adjusting 2295-41 second gear and 2299-41 second gear retaining bracket clearance.......

Assemble onto the clutch gear end of the mainshaft, the 2294-41B low gear thrust washer. Make sure it will seat against the shoulder of the large splined diameter of the mainshaft. Now assemble the 2294-41 first [ low ] gear. Flat face of first gear faces towards clutch gear. The other first gear face has a counter bore in it. This counter bore holds the 2294-41B low gear thrust washer on center. Make certain the thrust washer seats completely into the counter bore of the low gear. Next.....choose the .040" thick washer from the 2294-41C washer set. Fit this washer into the counter bored face of the 2295-41 second gear. Slide both parts onto the mainshaft and up against the 2294-41 first gear. Reassembly your chosen 2516-41A mainshaft endplay spacer. On the side cover end of the mainshaft, reassemble 2292- 33 thrust washer and the 2296-33A spacing collar. Re assembly mainshaft into the clutch gear bushing as before. Install side cover gasket, side cover, fasteners, and bearing rollers, again...as before. When adjusting the second gear to second gear retaining bracket clearance, we do not want the mainshaft endplay clearance to interfere. To prevent such interference, pull end of mainshaft [side cover end] away from clutch gear. Make sure the low gear thrust washer, low gear, low and second gear spacer, and second gear are slid towards the side cover end of the transmission also. Now we can check the existing clearance between the second gear teeth face and the second gear retaining bracket. Using a blade [often called leaf] type feeler gauge, slip a less than minimum clearance wide feeler gauge leaf in between the second gear and second gear retaining bracket. Slide the feeler blade around the full radius of the face of the second gear retaining brackets face. We do this because second gear retaining bracket faces are not exactly parallel to the second gears teeth face. We need to find the tightest are for a correct measurement. Continue changing feeler gauge leaves to thicker sizes, until you find the one size which will just slip through the tightest area. Record that feeler gauge width dimension.

Now disassemble the transmission as you have so many times before. If while checking the clearance between the second gear and second gear retaining bracket, provided a correct clearance tolerance, this part of the build if completed. If not.... we must now remove the second gear, second and low and the 2294-41C second gear spacer washer. Since we know we had used the .040" second and low gear spacer washer to obtain and initial second gear to second gear retaining bracket clearance measurement, we now know which way we must proceed. If our initial second gear to second gear retaining bracket clearance measurement was less than the clearance we needed. We must resize the .040" low and second gear spacer to a smaller size of thickness. A shop with a Blanchard grinder can do this easily. If our measurement indicted we obtained too much clearance, we must choose one of the thicker spacer washers from the 2294-41C spacer washer set. If the closet spacer washer thickness to the size we need is too thick, we must resize it. I obtained a .007" clearance between the second gear and second gear retaining bracket, using only the factory sized low and second gear spacing washers.

It is critical to keep in mind our mainshaft endplay clearance amount. Since tolerances call for .003" to .005" on the mainshaft endplay adjustment, and tolerances call for .005" to .007" clearance between the second gear and second gear retaining bracket, clearance adjustment of the second gear to the second gear retaining bracket, depends entirely on what clearance was obtained for mainshaft endplay. For instance....If you obtained a .003" mainshaft endplay clearance, a .005" second gear to second gear retaining bracket clearance, would actually allow .002" clearance, between the second gear and second gear retaining bracket, when mainshaft was shifted to the clutch gear side of transmission. This .002" clearance amount is built into the design of the 45 transmission. If your mainshaft endplay was .005", you need .007" between the second gear and second gear retaining bracket. If the mainshaft endplay was .005" and you settle for .005" between the second gear and second gear retaining bracket, there will be no clearance between the second gear and second gear retaining bracket, when the mainshaft shifts towards the clutch gear side of the gearbox. Since I obtained a mainshaft endplay of .0035", the .007" I obtained between the second gear and second gear retaining bracket, provides me with .0035" second gear to second gear retaining bracket clearance when the mainshaft is shifted towards the clutch gear side of the gearbox.

Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 10.17.48 AM.jpg

Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 10.19.53 AM.jpg