Pa's 1942 WLA Transmission Build

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Pa

Before I go any further along with the build, I would like to address my favorite literary materials addressing the 1941-73.. 45 model. I've listed my favorites below, in the order of my preferences. I own many other parts books and service manuals. These are the ones I like and use the most. There are some errors in all of these books. Bruce Palmer has corrected the errors in his book, with a correction list. Bruce’s correction list is available all over the web. In his defense, he had the errors corrected, before the book was published, but the publisher did not make the changes before print. The other favorite books I use have never had their errors corrected. In the transmission section alone, all but the Motorcycle Mechanics Handbook, do not direct the transmission builder to install the mainshaft endplay spacer, when the second gear to second gear retainer clearance is to be set. I will try to remember to add other errors in these manuals at a later date.

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100inchscoot
actually Paul i'm sure of it that the 3rd stud was added for the same reason they added the 5th mounting in the same place in 37 on bt tranny's
to give support to the trans when you were kicking it over a triangle is a hell of a lot stronger than 2 bolts inline
especially when you’re putting your whole bodies weight out on the weak end kicking it threw

Pa
The downward pressure support, for kicking over the trans, make a lot of sense Mike. Pa

Pa
Continuing on with the build..... we now gather together the countershaft components, 2300-42 countershaft, 2303-41 cluster gear, the two 2305-39 right roller bearing end washers, 2305-33 left inner thrust washer, and the 2308-33 left outer thrust washer. Next step is to choose the size roller sets we will be using. Mic and record the countershaft roller bearing journals. Mic and record the roller bearing races on both ends of the countershaft. Do the same math for a .0006" to .0008" clearance calculation. Choose the correct size 2306-32 left side rollers and also the 2289-39 right side rollers.

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This being accomplished, we will now assemble the rollers, countershaft, cluster gear, and thrust washers together. I lightly grease both cluster gear bearing races, the counter shaft roller bearing journals, and both faces of each thrust washer. Next I position the 2305-33 left inner thrust washer and the one 2305-39 right inner thrust washer, into their respective positions, inside the cluster gear roller bearing race journal, up against the bearing race shoulders. I then place the 2308-33 left outer thrust washer onto the countershaft, sliding it all the way back to the splined journal shoulder. Next... using tweezers, I now insert the correct rollers into both ends of the cluster gear. This procedure can be a little tricky. Take your time doing this because the least little jarring can cause the rollers to fall back out of their positions. Now I insert the countershaft into the cluster gear. Gentle handling is needed here also. I hold the cluster gear in a vertical position, small end facing downward. I then align the countershaft to the large end bearing rollers and carefully slip the countershaft through the first set of roller bearings, and continue sliding the countershaft on through the next set of roller bearing at the other end of the cluster gear. I then install the 2305-39 right outer roller thrust washer. Next, I set the assembly off to the side with components 2165-32 starter clutch gear, 2166-26 starter clutch spring, and the 2168-26 countershaft spring.


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Preparing gearbox for countershaft installation...... The next step is to install the 2165-32 starter clutch gear and the 2166-26 starter clutch spring into the gearbox. Looking into the splined bore of the starter clutch gear, you will see there is one wide spline. I use this wide spline as an installation reference, by installing the starter clutch gear, with the wide spline facing up, in a vertical positon, once the starter clutch gear has been installed into the gearbox. Both the starter clutch gear and the starter clutch spring, are installed into the gearbox, at the same time. The starter clutch gear has two radius shaped legs on the one side, which engage in under the two 2172-26 tripper bolts. The starter clutch gear also has a pilot flange for the 2166-26 starter clutch spring to align to. The left side 2312-26 countershaft gearbox bushing, also has a pilot flange for the starter clutch spring to align to. Grasping the starter clutch gear in your hand, radius legs of the starter clutch gear facing away from your hand, install the starter clutch spring onto the starter clutch gear. Position the starter clutch gear in your hand with the wide spline of the starter clutch gear bore, vertical and at the top. Twist you hand counter clockwise, so that the radius legs of the starter clutch gear will miss the tripper bolt heads. Place the starter clutch gear and starter clutch spring into position, over the left case countershaft bushing. Compress the spring until the radius legs of the starter clutch gear make contact with the face of the left gearbox countershaft bushing. Now rotate the starter clutch gear clockwise, until the radius legs of the starter clutch gear slip in under the tripper bolt heads. Adjust splined bore of the starter clutch gear until the major diameter of the splined bore is in alignment with the left gearbox countershaft bushing, and....the wide spline is facing up, in a vertical position.

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Next we can install the countershaft assembly......

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Next we can install the countershaft assembly...... Install the 2168-26 countershaft spring into the small bore on the left end of the countershaft.


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Hold the countershaft assembly in your hand, so as not to allow the cluster gear to lose position against the shoulder on the countershaft. Position the wide spline of the countershaft as you positioned the wide spline of the starter clutch gear. Install the countershaft assembly into the starter clutch gear and left side countershaft bushing. This is a bit tricky also. The countershaft assembly will not enter the gearbox where the countershaft position is. You must start the entry near the mainshaft area first. Once the large diameter gear of the cluster gear, makes entry, you can shift the assembly, back into its respective gearbox location, and continue installing it. Gently align the countershaft splined diameter to the starter clutch splined bore. This is why we positioned the wide splines where we did. It greatly helps in the installation of the countershaft assembly. Now....being extra careful while installing the countershaft assembly, completely through the starter clutch gear, and into the left gearbox countershaft bushing, Complete the countershaft assembly installation. DO NOT TURN THE COUNTERSHAFT!!!!!! Doing so, will disengage the starter clutch gear from the tripper bolt heads!!! You will then have to start all over again. You will notice the large gear teeth of the cluster gear do not fully mesh and engage with the clutch gear teeth. This is because the countershaft spring is preventing full engagement. Not to be concerned with though. Once the side cover is on, the countershaft spring will compress and the two will mesh together then.


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We can now install the mainshaft assembly.


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Place the 2298-41B low gear shifter clutch and the 2298-41 second and high gear shifter clutch into their respective positions, on the mainshaft assembly. Align the mainshaft assembly to the gearbox and carefully install

it into the clutch gear, making sure the two shifter clutches are not engaged into the gears. You will need the two gears to move freely, so you can mesh gear teeth, to each other, as you fully install the assembly into the clutch gear. Both countershaft and mainshaft assemblies are installed into the gearbox. Now install the 2262-39 countershaft side cover seal washer onto the countershaft. Grease the washer all over.

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Now we can install the gasket, side cover, mainshaft roller bearings, and 2291-33 right outer roller mainshaft thrust washer.


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We will be using the previous procedures for installing the side cover but you will find it a bit more taxing as you install it, due to the resistance caused by the 2168-26 countershaft spring and the 2262-36 countershaft side cover seal washer. If you gradually tighten all fastens down, using a staggering sequence, buttoning up the side cover, will go smoothly.

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Once you have the side cover completely tightened down, make sure the mainshaft, clutch gear, and cluster gear rotate ok. You will have slide the shifter clutches around, in order to check for free motion. The clutch gear will drag on the clutch gear oil seal some. Don't be concerned with that drag. Check for free movement of the countershaft. Using a wrench, on the squared end of the countershaft, turn countershaft counterclockwise, 180 degrees, until the slot cut into the square end of the countershaft is facing directly up in a vertical position. The starter clutch gear will disengage from the tripper bolt heads, engage into the cluster gear, and then re-engage under the tripper bolt heads. The now present position of the countershaft, is where it will be, when the 2084-41 kicker spring and 2076-41A starter crank and pedal assembly, will be located, when transmission build is completed. Some resistance will be felt while you rotate the countershaft but to much is not good. Resistance must be less than the kicker spring strength is, or the countershaft will not return to it's correct position after kicking the transmission over, once final transmission build is completed, and all parts have been assembled.
Pa

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The next segment will be the 2035-41 drive sprocket installation. I like to install the drive sprocket before I install the shifter drum and shifter forks. I do this because I can lock the transmission up, while the shifting clutches are at my disposal. Once the shifter drum and forks are installed, one can't utilize the gears as a locking tool. AND....the drive sprocket gear, along with the clutch gear, can be used as tools, when testing shifting positions, once the shifter drum, and shifter forks, are installed and set.
Pa

I very lightly grease the tapered journal of the mainshaft and the keyway slots before I install the keys, and drive sprocket. Some do not, for fear of the drive sprocket may loosen. I've never had a loosening experience, over the many years I have been doing it this way. I grease these areas because drive sprockets wear out, and must be replaced from time to time. The very light film of grease prevents the drive sprocket, keys, and mainshaft from rusting together, like a fusion. I don't use never seize because the compound is much too dense and I want a good tight taper to taper fit. I also lightly grease the drive sprockets seal lip and the transmission side cover mainshaft roller bearing race seal surface, which the seal rides on.
Now I install the 2279-26 keys into their respective mainshaft keyway slots and the 2035-41 drive sprocket. I position the keys so they are slightly tilted downward on their leading edges, so that the drive sprocket gets a good start onto them during installation. The drive sprocket will not go on without a little persuasion, due to the drive sprockets seal lip. I utilize the 364-37 nut to push the drive sprocket seal lip onto the transmission side cover mainshaft roller bearing race seal surface. Once the seal lip has been positioned properly, I remove the nut and install the 2278-26 lock washer, inserting the lock washer’s small tab into one of the keyway slots and install the nut. I lock the gears down with the shifter clutches and tighten down the nut. I do not bend any of the three lock washer tabs at this time. If anything is not right when I finish this build, I won't have to unbend a tab to open the gearbox back up again. I will bend a tab before I install the 2345- 41 sprocket cover.


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Pa
Now we get to tear it down a few more times we don’t have to remove the side cover. I hope, but we do need to install and uninstall the shifter fork and shifter drum assemblies, maybe several times yet, except for a few components. Below is the parts we will start with, in regards to the shifter assembly. I'll post the shifter drum parts next, before we begin the final....yep...final wla Trans assembly. Pa

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Pa
Still here folks.....I ran into one other dilemma though. I misplaced my nos wla starter arm spring stud. Without it, I won't be able to assemble the starter spring and sprocket cover. I will be posting the shifter fork adjusting sequence soon though. Pa

Enigmas
Very anal Paul. Nice layout of components with pix and instructions....but couldn't you have been a bit more comprehensive!

Pa
But couldn't you have been a bit more comprehensive!
Am I to shallow on my instruction Vince? I know my photography needs a lot of work. Pa

Enigmas
No Paul, to use an Aussie expression..."I'm pulling your leg." It's very comprehensive and an excellent presentation.

Pa
Thanks Vince!! That Aussie expression “I’m pulling your leg" was used by my parents. That was years ago. I haven’t heard the phrase since, until you mentioned it. Speaking of Down Under.... There is a New Zealand comedy duo, going to do a show at one of our local colleges real soon. They are known as the "Flight of the Conchords". Funnnnnnnny Stuff!!! Pa

Pa
The next two photos below, are parts we will need to deal with, before we can deal with the parts in the previous photo.

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[Paps]

We need to deal with the shifter lever parts next. Before assembling the shifter lever components to the transmission case, I advise checking the fit of the squared hole of the 2241-41 shifter gear to the squared shaft area of the 2242-40 gear shifter lever shaft. Many times the two parts are a bit to tight to each other. They should slip together with very light pressure. Loose is no good but tight is worse. If loose, one can shim to take up slack. If tight, assembly to the case is but impossible. Fitting tight parts is best accomplished by filing the square part of the gear shifter lever shaft. File easily and check fit frequently. Once the two parts slide together well, we can assemble them to the transmission case. Looking at the 2241-41 shifter gear, you will note that one face of the gear is dished out and accommodates a pilot boss around the center of the square bore. This side faces the left side of the transmission case when the gear is installed, the pilot centers and holds the 2166-26 gear shifter lever shaft spring in position. Position the 2166-26 spring onto the pilot boss of the shifter gear. Compress the spring, using two hands and fingers, and slip the two components into the transmission case, between the two gear shifter lever bushings. The large left side shifter lever bushing accommodates a spring pilot also. Getting the two components into position is a little tricky. Once you have the two in their respective positions, rotate the shifter gear so the teeth are facing towards the rear of the transmission case. Where gear teeth begin on gear, should be almost in a vertical position. Look into the outer face of the large left side case bushing. Adjust the gears square bore on center with the bushings bore. Next we will install the 2245-26 leather washer onto the 2242-40 gear shifter lever shaft. Slide the washer all the way onto the shaft. This is the perfect time to grease the two bushings and the gear shifter lever shaft. The location of these components, in a 45 transmission, prevents the components from receiving much, if any, of the transmission oil, for lubrication. Almost all the 45 transmissions I have ever opened up, were rusted up pretty good in this area. Grease is a real friend here! Going on.... Holding the gear shifter lever shaft, so that the lever itself, is almost in a vertical position, align the shaft to the large case bushing and adjust, either direction, in order to align the shifter gear square bore, to the square shaft end. Start the shaft into the bore and shifter gear. Don’t force the parts together. Gently work, using prying tools, to support and align the shifter gear to the gear shifter lever shaft as they continue to slide together. Once the leather washers makes contact with the face of the case bushing, we must maintain the position and pry the shifter gear further onto the gear shifter lever shaft, until the groove on the shaft, for the 2242-38A shifter gear retaining spring is fully visible. Here is where you need three hands. While keeping the components in this position, the spring retainer needs placed into position. Needle nosed pliers are a big help with this. Push the retainer over the small shaft diameter below the surface of the spring retainer groove. The spring retainer will lock itself to the small diameter part of the shaft.


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[Paps]

Pa
Now we need to install the 2243-41 gear shifting cam. I've already pointed out the number 3 mark on the 2241-41 shifter gear. This mark is what we will time the gear shifting cam to. The gear shifting cam has its own timing mark identification. The small gear, affixed to the end of the gear shifting cam, has one single beveled gear tooth on it. "SEE PHOTO" we must install the gear shifting cam, so the beveled gear tooth, will align with the number three tooth, on the shifter gear, when the two gears mesh together, as they roll with each other. This is a bit tricky and may take several installation attempts, before you get the two gears, timed with each other correctly. The trick is to rotate the gear shifter lever shaft assembly until you locate the number 3 tooth on it, and then re rotate the gear shifter lever shaft assembly, clockwise, until the last tooth of the shifter gear is in a vertical position, facing up. Count the number of teeth, from the number three identification, which was rolled away. Now we can slip the 2243-41 gear shifter cam into its position. To do this, we must position the open clearance slot on the right end of the gear shifter cam, in position to enter the transmission case first, with the clearance slot facing down, in a vertical position, while keeping the gear shifter cam square and parallel, to the transmission case, and gently lowering it into position with the shifter gear, and the 2244-41 gear shifter camshaft bores. Locate the beveled gear tooth on the gear shifter cam and roll the gear shifter cam the same amount of teeth, for which you rolled the shifter gear, the opposite direction, before you allow the two gears to mesh with each other. There is enough room in the gearbox, towards the rear of the gearbox, to do this. We now must simultaneously align the gear shifter cam shaft bores to the gear shifter cam shaft, and the gear shifter cams gear teeth to the shifter gears teeth, so that when the two components are rolled, once the gear shifter cam shaft is installed, the beveled gear tooth, on the gear shifter cam, will mesh with the shifter gears number three tooth mark. Don't force the gear shifter cam shaft into position. If it does not go in freely, you do not have all the positions aligned properly. This usually takes several attempts before successful. Once you accomplish this, you now need to slide the gear shifter cam shaft into the gearbox gear shifter cam shaft bore, from the right side, on through the shifter cam, and into the gear shifter cam shaft bore on the left gearbox side. Now we need to roll the shifter gear lever assembly, to verify timing mark alignment. If incorrect, try again. Once we get the timing marks alignment correctly, we have only just began. LOL !! Next.. Make sure the gear shifter cam shaft stays in position and then push the shifter cam towards the left side of the transmission case, until you are certain, the shifter cam gear face, is seated against the transmissions shifter cam shafts bore face. Now push the gear shifter cam the opposite direction, all way back across to the right side of the transmissions shifter cam shaft bore face. Using a feeler type leaf gauge, measure the distance between the gear shifter cams gear face and the transmissions gear shifter cam bore face. If more than .005”, purchase shim or shims to take up the excessive endplay. I have not read one single service manual which directs attention to excessive gear shifter cam endplay. But believe me....this endplay is critical in determining easy shifting on a 45 transmission. Though you may have held mainshaft and gear endplay tolerances, during your build, this endplay could eliminate all your effort. If you don’t take care of the gear shifter cam endplay now. .003” to .005” is what you want, if you wish not to compromise your previously set tolerances, and your, yet to come, shifter fork tolerances. Installing a shim between the gear shifter cam and the transmissions gear shifter cam shaft bore face is tricky also. You will only want to do this once! It is not necessary to install the shim now. What is necessary, is to know a value on the shim needed, if one is needed, this value will play a part while adjusting shifter fork specifications and when shifter fork adjustments have been completed. To get around the lack of a shim, during shifter fork adjustments, we will position the gear shifter cam, always against the transmissions, right side gear shifter cam shaft bore face. You may ask yourself...why is there not a part number for such a gear shifter cam shaft shim? I will tell you why. When these old transmission were first built, the clearances were already machined in. There was no need for another part. Over time and use, the transmission case, gear shifter cam shaft bore faces, wore down, creating excessive endplay clearances. You may also ask...How did the mechanics repair this? They didn’t repair this! They replaced the transmission case, and or, the gear shifter cam. Continuing.... Now we get to take all the gear shifter cam components back out of the transmission case. Don’t worry though...we get to put them back in and take them back out, several more times yet. LOL Because..... We have to remove and install them again so many times, we need to remember what we just did, when installing, and removing them. The three photos below reference this segment of the build.


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Pa

OK.....Now we can work with the shifter fork components, shown in a previous photo, of the shifter fork parts list.

We must first assemble a low and a high, shifter fork assembly. The photo below this paragraph, shows both assemblies. The only real difference between the low and high shifter fork assemblies, is the locations of where the 2247-41 gear shifter fork and the 2248-36 shifting finger, are located. On the low shifting fork assembly, the gear shifter fork is located on the left of the shifting finger. On the high shifting fork assembly, the gear shifter fork is located on the right of the shifting finger. Though noted in the photo, I will note it here also. All 2253-33A and 2253-33B shims, are positioned between the gear shifter fork and shifting finger, of both assemblies. Assemble parts, for a low shifter fork assembly, in the following order. 2249- 41 shifting fork bushing [hold so threaded end is facing left], add a 2248-36 shifting finger [part is keyed and will go on either way. either way is ok], add one each of the 2253-33A and 2253-33B shims [the 2253-33A shim is .014" thick. The 2253-33B shim is .007" thick. We are only one of each shim for a reference. We will add or subtract from them later on through the fitting process], add 2247-41 gear shifter fork [gear shifter fork is keyed. hold the partial assembly so you are looking through the bore from the threaded end. With the 2248-36 shifting fingers tit facing down, assemble the gear shifter fork facing to the left. ], add a 2253-33 spacer shim, add a 2251-33 bushing lock washer. [Lock washer is keyed and has two tabs on it. The two tabs are already bent slightly. Position tabs with their bends facing away from the spacing shim], and then add a 2250-33 nut [the nut is counter bored. Position counter-bore, facing towards the lock washer. Making sure the lock washers key is seated in the shifting fork bushing, tighten down the nut. Be careful not to over or under tighten. Sorry...no torque specs here either. Now set the assembly aside.

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Assemble parts, for a high shifter fork assembly, in the following order. 2249-41 shifting fork bushing, add a 2247-41 gear shifter fork, and one each 2253-33A and 2253-33B shims [ temporary, as with the low shifter fork assembly ], add a 2248-36 shifting finger [ hold the partial assembly so you are looking through the bore of the threaded end, with the gear shifting fork facing to your left. Install the shifting finger with the tit facing up. ], add a 2253-33 spacer shim, add a 2251-33 bushing lock washer, and then add a
2250-33 nut. Position of the lock washer and nut is the same as it was on the low shifter fork assembly. Tightened down like the low shifter fork assembly also. Set assembly aside.

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Pa
Hey People! If you find any typo's in my instruction or incorrect data, such as part numbers, what have you, don't be bashful. Please inform me so I can correct the boo boos. I wouldn't want anyone, who may be saving the info, to be steered wrong. Though my wla transmission is coming along just super and I have been able to hold specs so well, I do the typing stuff after the fact and proofing my typing, isn't one of my greatest skills Thanks, Pa

Pa
Installing gear shifter fork assemblies.....Now that we have both the low and high gear shifter fork assemblies, initially setup with one each, 2253-33A .014" thick and one 2253-33B .007" thick, shims, we can now installed the two into the gearbox for an initial clearance measurement. Both the 2298- 41B low and the 2298-41 2nd & high, shifter clutches, have a groove cut into the full diameter of them. This groove is where the actual 2247-41 shifter forks ride in. It is a good idea to lightly grease the gear shifter fork shaft. I also recommend oiling the sides of both shifter forks and both the low and 2nd & high shifter clutch grooves. We will now start the 2245-41 gear shifting fork shaft into the right side of the transmission case, into its respective case bore, via the entrance in the 2260-41 side cover. Barely start the shaft into the case. Now...take the low shifting fork assembly and position the 2247-41 shifting fork into the 2298-41B low shifter clutch groove. The 2248-36 shifter finger tit, should be facing up. While simultaneously sliding the gear shifter fork shaft, further into the case bore, and while also maneuvering, the low shifter fork assemblies bore, to align with the gear shifter fork shaft, slide the gear shifter fork shaft, through the low shifter fork assembly, until it just begins to exit the other end, of the low shifter fork assembly bore. Now let us focus of the high shifter clutch assembly. As with the low shifter fork assembly, insert the fork, of the high shifter clutch assembly, into the groove, on the 2nd & high shifter clutch. Do the same type of maneuvering, as you did on the low shifter clutch assembly, and continue sliding the gear shifter fork shaft, into and out of, the high shifter fork assembly bore. A bit more maneuvering will be needed, as you continue to slide the gear shifter fork shaft, fully into the opposite side transmission case bore. Now we grease the tits on both shifter fingers, and install a 2248-39 gear shifting finger roller, onto each of them. Install the rollers, with the large diameter flange facing down. Coat the outside of the rollers with grease. You will note that nothing retains the gear shifter fork shaft in position. This is because the pin in the face of the 2345-41 sprocket cover, does the retaining of it. In other words...keep a close eye on the gear shifter fork shaft, that it may stay in a fully seated position, each time you install it, during the yet to be follow steps, of taking shifting clutch clearance measurements. Now we can install the gear shifter cam parts again. We must follow the same procedure we used, when we first installed them for the gear shifter cam endplay measurement. But.....there are additional maneuvers to accomplish, which are added to those earlier, gear shifter cam parts assembly procedures. As with the earlier gear shifter cam installation, the open end of the gear shifter cam, will enter the transmission case first. But....our focus will now turn to the shift pattern grooves, which are cut into the body, of the gear shifter cam. Both grooves must align with each respective shifter finger roller, as we lower the gear shifter cam, into the transmission case. Another note....Some 2248-36 shifter fingers have a small hole drilled into the upper end of the tit. My particular shifter fingers do not. The hole, you find in some, is for a wire retainer, to hold the roller, onto the shifter finger tit. This wire retainer, I have not found a part number for. It is basically a length of wire which protrudes out a small distance from both ends of the hole, and is then bent, at both ends, in the shape of the letter C. Back to lowering the gear shifter cam into the transmission case..... Here is where the drive sprocket gear and clutch gear become tools. You may need to rotate, one or both of them, in order to release the low and 2nd & high shifter clutches from an engaged gear, so you can slide the two of them, and their respective gear shifter fork assembly, along the mainshaft, into position, with the shifting pattern grooves ,of the gear shifter cam body. Once you obtain mutual positions with these components, you can lower the gear shifter cam into the transmission case, and follow earlier gear shifter cam installation procedures, of aligning the gear shifter cam gears beveled gear tooth, to the shifter levers number 3 gear tooth. Make certain the gear shifter cam shaft is fully seated in all the way. Next three photographs represent this whole paragraph.


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Pa
Cad side cover screws have now replaced the parkerized screws, I previously had in it. Installed the 2086-41 starter crank spring stud also. Pa

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[ihrescue]

Jackie
Does anybody know the correct clearance between shifting fork shaft and side cover?
I have 0.011 (0,3 mm) of clearance on my parts - both NOS.
Thanks in advance!

ohio-rider
Glad to see things going nice and smooth for ya Pa. Also glad you’ve abandoned the idea about putting in a drain plug. That just didn’t seem right to me for this one. Has this project been relaxing or a hair puller?
FlatHeadsix

Pa
I think the .011 clearance is good, that's why the leather washer (seal?) is in there, make sure the leather fits tightly on the shaft and the spring pushes it evenly against the case.
mike

Pa
Did you get that measurement from depth miking off of the sprocket cover shifter shaft dowel head, and miking down from the gearbox sprocket cover face to the end of the seated shifter shaft? I wouldn't be concerned with some in and out floating on the shifter shaft. There is plenty of journal length on the small end of the shifter shaft. The main use of the dowel in the sprocket cover, is just to keep the shifter shaft in the gearbox bores. Pa

Pa
Don't worry. The drain stud idea is for my bobber’s transmission Steve. This Trans has to be as close as I can get to originality.
At times it has been a hair puller but most of the build has gone pretty well. Pa

Pa
He was referring to the shifter fork shaft Mike. And I definitely agree, with the leather washer and spring tension, you spoke of, on the gear shifter lever shaft. The gear teeth on the shifter cam, are more than long enough, for the shifter lever gear to travel in and out. Pa

[ihrescue]

Pa

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Above top photo is of the shifter cam plunger parts, consisting of, and installed in the following order, into the gearbox, 2251-36 ball, 2251-36A spring, and 2251-36B cap. Above bottom photo is these parts installed, into the gearbox, after reinstalling the gear shifter cam. Don't punch mark the cap in. Once installed in the motorcycle, final shifting tension will determine when to punch mark it.

We will use these parts to hold the 2243-41 gear shifting cam, in the neutral shift position, once we have reinstalled the gear shifting cam into the gearbox. We will remove and reinstall, these shifter cam plunger ball components, each time we need to remove and reinstall, the gear shifting cam, during the low and 2nd & high shifter clutch clearance adjusting procedure. When installing the shifter cam plunger ball components, add tension to the 2251-36A spring, with the 2251-36B cap, only enough to keep the gear shifter cam in the neutral position. You can determine, whether the gear shifter cam will stay in the neutral position, by rocking the gear shifter cam, on the gear shifter cam shaft, in both directions, until you feel strong enough resistance, for the 2251-36 plunger ball, to hold the gear shifter cam in the neutral position. The 2251-36 ball will seat into the neutral pocket, on the exterior edge of the circumference, of the gear shifter cam. You will know you have the transmission in the neutral position because the gear shifter lever shaft, will be in an almost vertical position, and you be able to rotate the drive sprocket gear, without the clutch gear turning with it. Rotating the clutch gear will not turn the drive sprocket gear either.


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Next..... we will measure the clearances, we presently have on our low and 2nd & high shifter clutches.

[ihrescue]

Pa

Pa
A Tech Intermission Here...........Before I forget.....I used an NOS OEM gasket on the side cover and will be using an NOS OEM top cover gasket on it as well. Using these old stock gaskets, means you will need to give them special attention, before they are used. The NOS OEM gaskets are pretty dried up when you remove them from the packaging. In this dried up condition, they have shrunk, and will not line up to all of the surface you will be placing them on. To restore them to size, they need to be soaked in water. I use one of the Ole Ladies pie pans for my soaking vessel. It usually only takes about 20 minutes before they become usable again. They problem with using the side cover NOS OEM gaskets is, you have to remove the side cover so many times during a build. The gasket dries up again each time. So....each time I remove the side cover, I toss the gasket back into the pie pan filled with water. If you are rebuilding a transmission as strictly a runner, and points do have a bearing on your build, use new gaskets. One more thing..............Don't use any sealers on the side cover gasket!! The sealers will change your mainshaft endplay! Pa

FlatHeadsix
Pa
A trick you can use to restore those WWII gaskets and keep them supple enough to work with for the duration of the build, and beyond, is to pour a little glycerin in the pan of water when you soak them . You can buy a small bottle of pure glycerin at most old fashioned drug stores, if you can't find any, then CornHusker's Hand Lotion is the next best thing. I have even been able to salvage the old surplus genuine cork fuel and oil cap gaskets using that trick, but you need a BUNCH of glycerin for them. Be patient, give them time to soak up the moisture and they actually become very useable again.
mike

George Greer
Pa,
Don't you have to install the bracket for the rear chain oiler pipe on the return spring stud?
George

Jackie
Thanks very much for your quick response but actually I meant the RADIAL clearance between shifting fork shaft and side cover.
It must be my basic English

Pa
Thanks Mike! I never thought of that. And to think... I have glycerin here to boot!

Pa
I don't know George. Does it attach there? Pa

Pa
Yes Jackie...That is what I thought you were talking about. Pa

Pa
Make certain transmission is in the neutral position! Rolling the gear shifter drum while simultaneously rotating either the drive sprocket gear, or the clutch gear, will allow you to go through the gear ranges, until you locate the neutral position. KEEP AN EYE ON THE SHIFTER FORK SHAFT while doing this!! Check it often! You will know you have found the neutral position when both the gear shifter cam plunger ball drops into the neutral pocket on the edge of the gear shifter cams body exterior, and the clutch gear remains motionless, while rotating the drive sprocket gear. When rotating the clutch gear, the drive sprocket gear will remain motionless also. Referencing the previous photograph above, we will make certain to keep the backlash out of the gear shifter cam, in the direction of the drive sprocket gear. Note....The back lash procedure will allow us to know the widest point of clearance we have. If the specific clearance tolerance, for correct fitment, is ...say... .052" to .058", the .058" would be our maximum clearance number value, with all back lash taken out. Since .003" to .005" is our final gear shifter cam end play tolerance, and.... we know what shim we will need in the opposite end of the gear shifter cam [ if one should be needed ], in order to obtain these tolerances, we also know, how much the gear shifter cam will travel, in the other direction, upon final assembly. In other words, if we hit the maximum wide tolerance of .058", with the gear shifter cam and the shifter clutches, back lashes taken out, we can subtract our obtained clearance from this value, and then know our minimum clearance obtained. If our gear shifter cam shaft end play clearance will be .003", we subtract this value from our .058" value and we now have a minimum clearance value of .055", on the particular gear shifter clutch we were adjusting. Our minimum and maximum values now fall within tolerance specifications. Although, we managed to obtain clearance values within acceptable levels, it would be best if we can nail our tolerances, dead nuts on, “in the middle of the acceptable tolerance range“. WHY???? We have other components which will wear as the transmission is in operation. Each shifter fork will wear thinner on both sides, creating more clearance. The gear shifter paths, which are cut into the gear shifter drum, will wear wider, creating more clearance as well. Shifter clutch fork grooves will wear wider. Gear faces will wear. Etc... Our goal is to obtain the best clearance values now, so the transmission will provide us with more life. We can miss the mid-range values and the transmission will still function very well. We will sacrifice life expectancy though. OK....Now more lecturing. LOL!

We will now proceed to measure our present, low and 2nd & high shifter clutch clearances. Referencing the next two photographs below, we will check our present low and 2nd & high shifter clutch clearances. The first image below shows the use of a small hole gauge, which is fitted between the face of the low gears teeth and the low gear shifter forks face. I like using a small hole gauge for the low gear shifter fork clearance measurement. The tool is a precise expandable and collapsing measuring device, which works perfectly for this particular gear shifter clutch. An outside mic is used to measure the small hole gauge, once feel has been set, after gauging with it. Stacked feeler gauge leaves will work also, but they are difficult to keep stacked while taking measurements. They are also difficult to feel with when stacked. Fractional, letter, and number drill bits [the shank ends], work well also. These can be used as go and no go gauges and feel is good with them. Note....mic the drill bits for actual diameter. They are not always what they say they are. Once you have obtained a present clearance value on the low shifter clutch, you now know where this clearance stands, in reference to the tolerance range of factory specifications. As you may recall, when we assembled both shifter fork assemblies, we had assembled, one each, 2253-33B -.007” and 2253-33A - .014” shims, to each of them. Our present, initial, clearance value taken, on the low gear shifter clutch, will now determine, whether we add or subtract from these shims. This same mathematical formula, will be use on the clearance value found, when we take our initial 2nd & high shifter clutch clearance measurement. Moving over to the 2nd & high shifter clutch.... The only real difference between measuring the 2nd & high and low shifter clutches, is where the 2nd & high shifter clutch measurement is taken. The method of taking the measurement is pretty much the same. Measurement is taken between the protruding drive dog faces on the 2nd & high shifter clutch and the protruding drive dog faces on the 2513-41 clutch gear. Rotate clutch gear so protruding drive dogs line up with protruding drive dogs on 2nd & high shifter clutch. Initially I use stacked feeler gauge leaves on my first measurement. Though not as accurate for measurement taking, the stack feeler gauge leaves provide me with a reference point. This reference point allows me to choose selected sized fractional, letter, and number sized drill bits, for a more accurate measurement. I would use a smaller precision small hole gauge here, but my set does not go down that small. I have to improvise instead. You can also use wire gauges or a combination of one drill bit size and one feeler gauge leaf. OK...Back to the 2nd & high shifter clutch clearance measurement....Once you have obtained an accurate measurement, you now know whether you will add or subtract shims, on this shifter fork assembly as well. Once accurate measurements are taken, and it has been determined whether you will remove or add shims, to the two shifter fork assemblies, you get to disassemble the gear shifter cam and the gear shifter fork assemblies once again. LOL!! With accurate measurements, correct mathematics, a bit of luck, the next assembly of these components will be you last assembly of them. After correcting the shims on both shifter clutches, reinstall all components and re take both shifter clutch clearance measurements. If within tolerances, partially remove the gear shifter cam shaft from the gear shifter cam, only enough to allow you to install the gear shifter cam endplay shim, if one would be needed, in front of the gear shifter cams gear face, and aligned with the bore of the gear shifter cam. Install the 2245-36A oil seal onto the gear shifter cam shaft [fits in groove on gear shifter cam shaft] [sprocket side of transmission] and re insert the gear shifter cam shaft into the gearbox bore. Lock gear shifter cam into place with the 2244-38A screw. The screw threads into the hole on top of the clutch gear side of the transmission case. Tip of screw locates in groove of gear shifter cam shaft......... If not within tolerances yet........Start the whole shifter clutch adjusting procedure all over again...LOL!

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[Paps]

Pa
George....In regards to the mounting of the rear chain oiler, I just looked through Bruce Palmers big book and he states, something to the effect, the chain oiler is mounted to various parts of the engine on all Side valve models, depending on model. Are you certain of the starter spring stud mounting??? Or could you be referring to the chain guard forward mounting stud, which is mounted in a tapped hole, in the top rear area of the sprocket cover ? Pa

Pa
Time to install the 2084-41 starter crank spring.....The first three photographs below, show the procedure I use for installing the spring. In the first image, I have initially slipped the spring onto the countershaft, only enough to where the outer surface of the springs windings are flush with the face of the countershaft. Note how I positioned the springs hook [open end facing front of transmission] and 90 degrees from the starter crank spring stud. It is also position 180 degrees from the radius notched area of the countershaft. This positioning of the starter crank spring is so we can preload tension to the starter crank spring, once we seat the hooked end of the spring onto the starter crank spring stud. The second photograph shows the starter crank spring installed further onto the countershaft. This time though, we installed it far enough onto the countershaft so that the starter crank spring, will catch the starter crank stud, just enough to hold the hooked end of the starter crank spring onto the starter crank stud. I use a blunt nosed flat blade screw driver to force the hooked end of the starter crank spring. I insert the tip of the screw driver, vertically beneath the pocket of the hooked spring end and force the hook, in a clockwise motion, up and inline, with the starter crank spring stud. Once there, I guide the beginning of the hooked end onto the starter crank spring stud. Making certain hooked end is on the stud, to a safe enough point, where it won't jump back off of the stud, I begin installing the starter crank spring the rest on the way onto the countershaft, third image below. I use the blunt nosed screw driver as a driver to do this. By placing the screw driver flat blade on the outer surface of the spring, and flush against the flats of the countershaft, I tap around all four sides of the countershaft, until I drive the spring the rest of the way onto the countershaft. While tapping the spring along the countershaft, I also tap the hooked end of the spring further onto the starter crank spring. The starter crank spring is slightly recessed on its diameter for the hooked end of the spring to seat into. The hooked end may not fall right into place, over the stud A downward tap on the backside radius of the hooked end, will accomplish this. Note.....The starter crank spring coil, must be far enough onto the countershaft, in order to prevent the spring from rubbing on the sprocket cover, when the spring is contacting and expanding during kicking over, once the sprocket cover has been installed.

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