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'27 JD Cut Down Project - SWAN
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Thanks for posting this Steve. What a great nugget of family history.
John
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I went back to where i grew up and did a library search; was thrilled to find this article about my Dad's trip from Cincinnati to Hartington, Nebraska, in the local paper, The Cedar County News. Attached are a couple pics taken during that trip. The date of the article is August 18, 1927. Also attached is the expense log he kept during April, 1927, that must have been when he first purchased his '27. 980 miles in 36 hours = average speed of 27.2 mph. Doing the math on his $6.12 gas expense for 980 miles.... based on price per gallon of gas noted in Dad's gas was 25 cents/gallon, that means Dad purchased approximately 24.5 gallons during the trip. Dividing 980 miles by 24.5 gallons, his fuel consumption was approximately 1 gallon per 40 miles. 1 dollar in 1927 is worth $13.79 today; this means a gallon of gas cost Dad about $3.45 in today's dollars. Pulling that side car,I imagine he used at least 1-1/2 quarts of oil.
1927-08-18 (Vernie Swan cycles) Page 1 of Cedar County News,published in Hartington, Nebraska on.jpgDad's JD log book.jpgDad asleep on the road.jpgDad upon awakening.jpg
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Brilliant Steve, thanks for the answers.
Now that you mention it I remember you mentioning the headlight previously. Electronic ignition makes sense and the rear fender and rear light look good too.
I am looking forward to the next bit of progress.
John.
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Hi John! Thanks for visiting my thread and your questions! i'm running a '29 generator that i'll convert to 2-brush. i'll be running a QuickStart 2000 electronic ignition. i'm using a 10 inch Model T headlight that has the original Spreadlight lens, it will tuck in surprisingly nicely at the top of and between the spring tubes. The horn is a 1926 Model T, it'll look like a fender ornament, extending a little past half way on the front fender. Large as the headlight and horn are, i think they are going to fit well with the overall appearance of the bike. My local buddy i've been helping with his '29, has a nice set of original footboards i will use. The Speedster handlebar are Tom Faber's; i will be running oem spirals, control coils and related parts. As far as colors, i am thinking a light grey/blue, something along the lines of the early twins, but will not be a factory color; i want the hue to be such that it is neither blue nor grey. the grey/blue will be for the fenders, tanks, guards and battery box. i've not decided on stripes, if i'll follow factory layout or if everything will be only 2 colors; right now, i'm leaning to maroon and black. i have been visualizing the frame to be maroon and forks the light grey/blue, the headlight and horn, black. we'll see where all of this goes, while i have a a sort of "vision" from the beginning i am at the same time letting things unfold as i keep hanging parts as they seem to best fit on the frame and forks. early on, as i was looking at cut downs and bobbers, and when 1914 repro fenders came with the frame and forks i purchased from Mick, i began realizing i wanted my project to look different from anything i was seeing. i honestly think that i am going to be able to pull off a decent looking JD custom using the oversize horn and headlight, not to mention the Velocette Brooklands-type can. i think they will stand in a pleasant contrast to the 28" tires on the 21" rims and the narrow sport solo tanks. when the idea to build another '27 entered my brain, i had no idea what direction it was going to go other than i knew i would not be going the factory standard route. the project has gone downhill from there.
20190706_190849.jpg20190706_193155.jpg20190704_202642.jpg20190706_190204.jpg1915 Model T Headlight 2.jpgLast edited by Steve Swan; 07-10-2019, 01:07 PM.
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That is looking great Steve.
Here are some questions that come to my mind,
Is it magneto or coil ignition? I am guessing coil?
What do you plan for lights and horn?
Footboards or footrests?
What sort of handlebar controls are you planning on?
You may have mentioned this earlier in the thread but what are you plans for colour?
John
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just realized i made up the rods to fit the wrong rocker stud....... Grrrr.......
1915J.jpg1915-HD.jpgLast edited by Steve Swan; 07-01-2019, 09:42 PM.
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More progress on the chassis build. First off, a big thank you to Bob Luland for his fine work on the front forks. He replaced the spring tubes. The rigid fork legs were pushed back, sideways, the lugs were twisted and the lower of the three plates was cracked, he did a neat weld repair; assembling the forks, everything fit together perfectly. I am really pleased with how easily the 7" conical front brake centered, fit and looks; combined with the rear brake, i am confident together both will stop a motorcycle that's barely over 400 pounds. Made up some rods for the front fender, brake cable attached top and bottom. I was able to make a save on a really crusty front brake lever that had a screw twisted off on the perch and drilled/tapped a hole in the lever to keep the cable in place. i am really pleased how the bolt in the backing plate aligns with the rear rocker stud; next, i am going to make of a small plate to keep the backing plate from turning.
20190701_141045.jpg20190701_141139.jpg20190701_141157.jpg20190701_141754.jpg20190701_142016.jpgLast edited by Steve Swan; 07-01-2019, 09:43 PM.
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I've been off and on, fitting various parts and adjusting clutch and shifter controls. Got a brake light switch installed. Some nice brass caps for tanks. I wanted a front chain/clutch cover other than the '27-type, so i went with the 1916-1919 for something different, made up a little bracket for the rear of the cover. I'm going need to add patch in the rear of the cover where the front of the rear chain guard meet, but that's down the road at another mile-marker. i also had to slightly make the clutch throw-out hole in the cover a bit oblong and drilled a hole to be able to adjust clutch spring tension. All in all, I'm making some progress.
20190626_200829.jpg20190626_201001.jpg20190626_200931.jpg20190626_201100.jpg20190626_202233.jpgLast edited by Steve Swan; 06-26-2019, 10:15 PM.
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In Nevada, a bonded title costs 150% of the original purchase price. Not the current retail price. (I hope)
Using a bond company, you usually end up paying 10% of this value as your out of pocket cost.
This makes the costs reasonable.
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Originally posted by whp View PostCongrats Steve!
I did the same process with terrible results. Minnesota gave me the middle finger when I gave them my Vermont registration. I went as high as I could go at the MN DMV and they did not accept the Vermont registration as anything other than registration. Also since I had started the process they would not release the vermont paperwork back to me and flagged my bike as "non registered". What a nightmare... I've since learned to just suck it up and go through the title process with a 3 year bond on it. It's expensive and I can see why nobody will title a knucklehead worth 50K sometimes. The sales tax would be crushing here...Last edited by Steve Swan; 06-03-2019, 12:39 PM.
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