1920 Harley Model F

[Steve Swan]

When I saw 1st pics your sunk float, I thought, "better get Tom's."

On another note, John, I want your lathe.......

[T. Cotten]

Well I got back yesterday and had a look at the air valve (more on that later) I established that the spring is a bit strong so I backed the tension off and thought i would have a go at starting it. I turned the fuel on and it was like I had a disconnected fuel pipe.

So I have either a bit of muck in the float valve or the new knock-off float is not floating any more. I fear the latter.

So the plan is to go to the paint store on Monday and buy some iso-cyanate clear coat and seal the original cork float and see if we can get this thing running whilst also keeping the petrol inside it...
John

Golly John,

I could have saved you a whole lot of trouble, and trial-and-error to find the sweet spot level for a heavier, 'sealed' float, and its extra expense for the sealer, if you would only let me.

Postage for my float is only $13.50, but if you are having fun, go for it!

....Cotten

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 "F" Project

Well I got back yesterday and had a look at the air valve (more on that later) I established that the spring is a bit strong so I backed the tension off and thought i would have a go at starting it. I turned the fuel on and it was like I had a disconnected fuel pipe.

So I have either a bit of muck in the float valve or the new knock-off float is not floating any more. I fear the latter.

So the plan is to go to the paint store on Monday and buy some iso-cyanate clear coat and seal the original cork float and see if we can get this thing running whilst also keeping the petrol inside it.

So I decided to give the H-D a break and on Sunday morning I rearranged my workshop






Then I did some minor tinkering.





I had an annoying oil leak that needed the engine in bits to sort.I had hoped to have it back together in the day but a stupid error by me put me back a bit so I will finish it in the morning. This is as far as I got by dinner time.



I know this is not the 20F as per the title of this thread but like I said I needed a break.

John

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 "F" Project

Thanks Eric.

I wanted to try to keep the original seat if possible. It would have been all too easy to buy a reproduction seat but it would not be the same, I am sure you understand what I mean.

I decided to send it to this guy. His website is worth a visit and he has a few videos on youtube of him repairing old leather.

Like I said above, if I were to do it again I would do it myself but time and lack of experience of leather working pushed me in the direction of sending it out.

John

[exeric]

Yeah! That's the stuff; Shoe Goo.

[T. Cotten]

Eric!

I, too, have used Eclectic's "Shoe-Goo" to tremendous advantage. One vintage aftermarket skirt on a Chummee would have disintegrated without a coat of "backing".
Anything for a 'Last Hurrah''; "Restoration" kisses the sweetest part of History goodbye.

....Cotten

[exeric]

I am most impressed with your resurrection of the seat, John. I had the same style Messinger a few years ago, and it was in the same condition as yours. I wanted to use the seat, but I knew it would only get worse if not reinforced. My older brother mentioned that he had repaired his running shoes with the stuff called "Shoe Glue", and said it worked great. I got some at Walmart, and it claimed it would work on leather. I followed the instructions, and made leather backing patches for the torn areas. It worked beyond my expectations and made the seat usable. Very sticky stuff, but stays just slightly pliable.

[Caperodder]

Absolutely breathtaking. Good luck with this beautiful machine!

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 "F" Project

Also the old numberplate was too far gone to be legal. In the UK there are strict laws on plates after certain dates but for a vehicle of this age it just has to be as per the original. First I did some vinyl letters but they looked horrible. Then I tried hand painting them myself and it looked like a four year old had done it. So I took it to a proper sign writer and asked him to copy the old plate. Here it is:

Old Plate



With vinyl letters



Hand painted




Also here is a close up of one of the letters. You can see that it is hand written and it looks great.



Also, the rules on a vehicle this age say that it has to have an audible warning device. I.e. a horn. No rules about lights but I must have a horn so I bought a Klaxon and fitted it.

Here is the bike earlier today. I have been trying to make the right hand tank look old. It is coming on but not quite there yet.





John

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 "F" Project

Here are a couple of updates on stuff I have done but didnt post about.

Remember I wrote in an early post about my seat. Well I sent it to a leather guy who I asked if he could save it. he did his best and it is OK for now. I gave him a free hand to do whatever was needed to save it, in hindsight I think I should have done it myself because I would have done some things differently but I cant complain because the seat now has some life in it wheras before it was knackered.













John

[T. Cotten]

I shall be off-line all weekend as well, John,

Really looking forward to the Davenport Meet showing of the Indian Wrecking Crew documentary: http://www.chiefblackhawk.org/
I'm usually not a "fan boy", but I think I shall print out jpegs of Bill Tuman and Bobby Hill for autographs and framing upon the shop wall.
After all, its a once in a life-time opportunity: Our fuses are lit.

....Cotten
PS: But there better be free popcorn.

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 "F" Project

I don’t think the difficulty had anything to do with the one piece valve. It was stuck when I got the engine and it had never been run.

I will let you know how I get on with it. I am away on business until the weekend and have fallen out of love with the bike for a couple of days because I seem to have turned a working bike into a non runner when I failed to get it going this afternoon. I will tension the spring properly and see what difference it makes. If no luck I will try an assembly similar to the original.

John

[T. Cotten]

Just for clarity, John,

The weight I gave was for the carrier alone, as the shaft, spring, and nut don't move.

I could cut one-piece carrier/seals like yours entirely from PEEK or whatever, and it would save a lot of time, but my mandate is to stay as close to the original design as practical.
Only a Cannonballer would demand such innovation.

It would please me greatly to know how the aluminum assembly performs, but only after a few thousand miles. I wonder if your difficulty in removing the assembly was due to the aluminum beating the brass outward, binding the threads. Three or five ounces doesn't seem like much, until it is applied pulsing at a couple of thousand RPM.

.....Cotten

[TechNoir]

Re: 1920 "F" Project

Hi Cotton,

I guess first I must say thanks to Tommo for the spring tension idea. I had read some stuff that talks about spring tension but hadn’t figured out how to do it. Some shot in a small container is perfect for a weight. Thanks.

The shaft is steel.

I checked the original engine build report from 1989 and it says:

"New air balance valve & spindle assembly made up & seating machined to suit"

Which I think is this air valve

It also says under the list of new parts made:

"Carburettor

1 Throttle spindle
1 spindle lock pin
2 spindle butterfly screws
1 spindle butterfly
1 choke valve spring
1 high speed air flap lever
1 high speed air flap screw
1 Needle spindle retaining screw
1 float chamber base nut
1 choke valve
1 choke valve spindle
1 choke valve end nut"

I think it is referred to in the parts list as the choke valve.

I will order some teflon or peek and make a new valve. Then tension the spring using your estimated weight as a starting point and see how it goes. At the moment my shaft, spring and nut weigh 20 grams without the aluminium valve so I will have to adjust as necessary for the complete assembly.

Thanks again,

John

[T. Cotten]

Well John,

Tommo gets the credit for weighing tensions,...
Because the pedestal has some weight, I filled a couple of vials with shot to total 3 and 5 ounces.

Is the shaft steel?

A fossil carrier I have with the leather gone is ~17g, so ~20g would be a good guess at un-bushed assemblies. No two seem alike, of course.
The variety of springs is unfathomable.

....Cotten