Bob Luland's 22JD Prodject

[Robert Luland]

Good afternoon Ladies and Gentlemen figure I’d tune in and give ya an update on what’s going on with the little motorcycle that could! I ended up purchasing a 1”X16”X72” piece of flame cut plate to build a frame table. After putting it on the layout table on two blocks of wood - two days later it was sagging in the center, so it was off to buy some 2X2 square stock to beef it up. It took me two more weeks to score a piece of 6X6X7” bar to make the transmission mount but we’re getting there (man that was a lot of chips). The hockey pucks you see in the tranny plate are there so the rear axle plate carrier indexes properly every time I have to remove the frame. I tigged up the heavy pitting on the bottom tube today. So next week, let the straightening begin. I have one of those cheap ten ton bodywork ram sets that I think will suffice for the job. Keep in mind that I have no clue what I’m doing here. I’m winging it but in this type of scenario, Bob falls back on the number one rule. When in doubt, completely over kill. Over kill is a good thing for two reasons: first, it limits your chance of failure by 90% and second, nobody could ever accuse you of being lazy. Bob L

[Tom Lovejoy]

very cool, interesting - looking good,thanks for posting.

[exeric]

Very nice Bob. I think I like seeing the fixtures you, and Jerry come up with, more than the parts you're going to fix.

[duffeycycles]

I second what Eric said ,Thanx for sharing

[Robert Luland]

Well Ladies and Gentlemen, It’s time to start posting again about the little motorcycle that could. So much has been accomplished since the last time I posted almost a year to date. I just haven’t had the time but I have been busy making parts and that’s a good thing. Anytime someone adds a quality part to the 1929 and down pool. It’s a great thing, for me it’s an anti-depressant. Who needs pills? I got beer and the AMCA! I’m going to do this in mini-time capsules since they only allow me five pictures per post. To pick up where we left off. The next thing in line was replacing the cross tube. We are going to take the trap door approach (Thank you very much Marty) Basically I found the casting pins at both ends and drilled them out. Heated up the casting and got what was left of the tube out. I then took a chucking reamer I modified to ream out any bronze that was left in the sockets (Could I have made the tool any shorter? Yes but I figured that out after I was done. Dumb! You will see this contraption in a following post). The whole idea here is to cut a trap door in the casting, insert you new tube and tig the trap door shut. Plug weld and braze for effect. Does it work? Damm right it does! Beats taking the whole frame apart. Bob L

[painterdale]

Bob, very interesting! Can't wait to see more! Love the frame bench, too. Dale

[Robert Luland]

Good day Gentleman, Here’s the next installment of the little motorcycle that could. After getting the upper motor mount cross tube installed it was time to really start fabricating right angle plates and a center post for the neck before I went any further with anymore repairs. It was just a case of locking the frame where ever I could to measure off the center line. At this point the frame itself checks good. The neck casting is a different story. You can also see in the pictures that I finished tigging up all the rot on the lower tube. Next post, I’ll really start digging into the repairs. This is the part were I finally felt like I was getting some where. Bob L

[exeric]

Very nice Bob. That is one helluva' frame table and sure takes the guess work out of establishing datum's, and centerlines. How many frames are going to have to fix to pay for the table

[Shaky Jake]

This is quite an ambitious project Robert. I'm enjoying your write-up very much. I wish I had your welding skills!


Kevin

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[Chris Z]

Thanks for posting Robert, I got a really pitted up frame and as well and really like seeing your progress.

[BoschZEV]

I'm very much enjoying this project. Great work! I have a question, though. I can't forsee all you will be doing with that frame table, but so far it appears you could have used a Bridgeport mill's table (with the ram pushed back and the table extended to provide the necessary vertical clearance) as a "frame table" to make all the measurements. Of course, this would be at the cost of losing use of the mill whenever the frame is attached. Am I right about this? But, even if a mill would have worked for what you have done so far, do you plan to do more types of work with your frame where your table, rather than a commandeered one from a mill, will be essential? I have more than a passing interest in this topic so look forward to knowing more.

[Robert Luland]

BoshZEV, The idea of using the mill table was brought up by one of my sons when we started. Big Lake Bob even found a T slot top at the beginning of this post but was cost prohibitive. Here's the problem with both. They are not long enough. The neck centering post extends the table to almost 72 inches. You will understand this better in later posts. I didn't want to dick around with trying to extend things with straight edges. I figure this is not going to be the last time I use this thing so decided to get it right in the first place. Bob

[BoschZEV]

They are not long enough. The neck centering post extends the table to almost 72 inches. You will understand this better in later posts. I didn't want to dick around with trying to extend things with straight edges.

That's a good reason and I thought it was the case. However, I wondered if there was even more to it than "only" convenience. Since I couldn't just fold up and put on the shelf a table like yours between uses finding space for one has to be balanced against the convenience of having such a large surface plate. Thanks very much for your answer. I'll definitely be following your future posts making use of it.

[rwm]

The neck casting is a different story. Bob L

Of course it is. it's a stamping

[MMasa]

Of course it is. it's a stamping

Do you mean it's a forging?