Dressing terminal ends

[duffeycycles]

Thanx Duke,looks like Home Depot is a local seller of Ancor stuff

[marksg]

I was able to look up the wire in the parts book for the coil. From the term block and from the circuit breaker. The circuit breaker end shows as a flag terminal just like Duffey's so that is what I have used. The Other side from the term block shows a straight terminal. I have been told I can use white shrink tubing to simulate the "Vinalite" . However I don't see using the shrink on the flag terminal. No way to get it over the terminal like a straight. I still have found no other pictures of correct 48'

[dukekleman]

Thanx Duke,looks like Home Depot is a local seller of Ancor stuff

Hopefully it's what your looking for.

[duffeycycles]

I see in Palmer's book the Vinylite Mark is talking about.Used 1948 & later.Palmers book said black Vinylite covering the crimps.PVC was well before modern shrink tube & probably what was used in '48.Maybe just that timer wire,it was white Vinylite?

[BigLakeBob]

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[BigLakeBob]

008B.JPG

[duffeycycles]

The Panhead and Flathead site has lots of wiring documentation that may help.This is 1956 & is black.Bob's pic is '48.

HD 1956 wiring pic coil.jpg

[marksg]

Excellent picture Bob. Thank you.
I had looked up the coil wire and is has one flag and one straight. After seeing Duffey's 47' I assumed the flag was the coil end.
More research and it appears the flag is the circuit breaker end and the straight is on the coil end per Bob's example.
E-Bay has a NOS and repop 32690-30 which I believe is the correct wire. Looks like heat shrink will work for my purposes.
Thanks to everyone for all the help.
Coil wire.jpgCoil wire NOS.jpg

[bernhardt]

Look carefully at the NOS timer wire. It's a heavier gauge than the other wires in the harness. It is black without a tracer. The timer end has a split flag terminal. A few inches away from the timer end is a hat shaped wire. The wire hat prevents it from being pulled out of the timer hole.

The coil end has an eyelet end. The wire is wrapped around a special eyelet, crimped, then dipped into solder. The jacket you see on the wire is part of the metal eyelet. There is no heat shrink anywhere on this wire! All of these timer wires on OP bikes are elongated, partly smushed with pliers after being made. Why? So the eyelet end can pass through the hole in the timer base. The repop wire above is not as the factory made it.

[marksg]

Look carefully at the NOS timer wire. It's a heavier gauge than the other wires in the harness. It is black without a tracer. The timer end has a split flag terminal. A few inches away from the timer end is a hat shaped wire. The wire hat prevents it from being pulled out of the timer hole.

The coil end has an eyelet end. The wire is wrapped around a special eyelet, crimped, then dipped into solder. The jacket you see on the wire is part of the metal eyelet. There is no heat shrink anywhere on this wire! All of these timer wires on OP bikes are elongated, partly smushed with pliers after being made. Why? So the eyelet end can pass through the hole in the timer base. The repop wire above is not as the factory made it.

Thank you. I am still in the learning process and looking for as much research as I can find.
I am showing that to be the correct part # for the wire. However I have not seen that connection in the wild. Also I was told at judging, that it needed Vinalite. (later was told to use white heat shrink)

I would still like to see some pictures of a 48' wiring. Scouring the internet most pictures are of the right side of the bike and most are not quality enough to zoom in to see the wiring.

Thanks again.

[duffeycycles]

Wiring changed in 1948..Palmers book said they no longer soldered.1948 is the first to use cover for connections.The pic I posted of '47 doesn't have the wrap/solder like shown on the NOS wire above.The '47 does have a larger diameter wire.Looks like the flag for the power supply became round wire end.

[marksg]

Thanks Duffey. I have been through the Palmers third edition twice looking for that reference and have not found it in the first volume. I will spend more time in the year specific second volume.

[duffeycycles]

page 617 second edition,The 1948-1955 Harness..etc

[Architect]

Mark, if you email Debbie Palmer, using the same email address as for ordering the book, she might be able to get Bruce to provide an answer. She also used to make harnesses, that is what is on my '46. Again, she may be able to provide a good answer and maybe even the needed bits. Good luck.

[marksg]

Mark, if you email Debbie Palmer, using the same email address as for ordering the book, she might be able to get Bruce to provide an answer. She also used to make harnesses, that is what is on my '46. Again, she may be able to provide a good answer and maybe even the needed bits. Good luck.

Thanks Bill, I may have it figured out.

I finally found the section on wiring harnesses in the Palmer's book. It clears up a lot.
However, after seeing the repop circuit breaker wire, some in the wild pictures and being told to use white heat shrink, Palmer's says the Vinylite is black.

Now I have to wonder whether to use the heat shrink on all the terminal ends to include the stop light switch, voltage regulator and horn.